1111WRA Magic Chef Range - Instructions

I removed the oven door and floor, removed the two screws holding the old part in place, unplugged it from the wiring harness and plugged in the new part and replaced the screws. Fixed in 5 minutes.

I was worried over the fact that my oven was filling up with propane but taking a long time to light. One day it didn't light for over ten minutes. I shut it off and put the still frozen pizza back in the freezer. That's it, I thought. I'm not going to use the oven again until it's fixed.

I looked online and ordered the part. It came within two days time,even though it was a weekend during the holiday season. My husband spent about 15 minutes with his head in the oven and then said it was fixed.

I baked several batches of Christmas cookies and three coffee cakes the next day.

I was afraid I would have to remove the built in oven from the wall to do the repair but it was simple. I pulled on the wire a bit and the connector popped out of the hole in the back. After that it was as simple as removing 2 screws, replacing the unit, plugging it in and pushing the new connection out the hole in the back. They included a piece of insulation with the kit that I then forced into the hole to protect the new plug from the heat of the oven.

Much easier than I thought it was going to be. In about 10 minutes I had the oven working again.

First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and disconnected the two wires. I
attached the new element with the two new screws and connected the two wires and then I turned the oven on and had heat immediately. It's real simple to do..this makes the third time that I have installed this particular part but my Magic Chef wall oven will soon be 20 yrs old. Thank you for making do-it-yourself so easy!!!

I removed the two screws that hold the element. This took most of the time because one of the screw broke. Then I unplug the power,took the igniter out and disconnect the wire and reverse the procedure.

I unpluged the electrical cord first. Then pulled the stove away from wall. Next removed oven racks, the bottom of the oven. Then removed the deflector plate over the burner. The next step I removed the broil pan. Now the oven area is empty. Nice and easy to remove the igniter with nut driver. Two screws and wire nut that are behind the stove wall. Now I just reversed the procedure. Very easy. The only thing I'm not sure where the insulation block go's. The wires go through back oven wall hole. There was no insulation there before? So I put a small piece just behind the igniter over the wire. Will this catch fire I don't know? If someone knows let me know. Other than that it works.

I unpluged the oven, removed the oven door by slideing it off the hinges, removed the racks, took the bottom pan out exposing the igniter,while attempting to remove the 2 screws holding the igniter to the bracket, I discovered that they where stripped so I had to use vise grips to remove them. I went to the hardware store bought replacements and installed the igniter. I then removed the protective cover over the wires, stripped them put on the wire nuts provided with the kit put the protective shield back pluged the unit in turned it on, checked it, then put it back together. The stripped screws were the only difficult part.

installed new control unit had to use the old dial so it would match . Toughest part is the cleaning! needed it.

put it on, perfect

took oven door off easy just lift up took bottom tray to oven out took bottom draw of stove out removed tin panel cover 2 screws to unplug igniter took 2 screws out of igniter and pulled unpluged wire through insulation. installed new igniter 2 new screws put wire through insulation and pluged it in. The only thing to check is matching the plug ends correctly before pushing them together.

Basic instructions provided were accurate. Most difficult part was bending down and reaching across the oven door. A general information note would have been helpful. The circuit that feeds the igniter and the gas valve is a series circuit. So, even though the igniter was glowing cherry red, the igniter was still the cause of the gas not flowing, The voltage drop across the igniter was larger then normal causing the voltage to the gas valve to go down and to be insufficient to allow the gas to flow.

After watching your do-it yerself video, I turned off the gas and unpluged ac power cord, I removed the stove door and then removed the bottom tray inside the stove unscrewed tray plate pulled buner out of its housing. I then unscrewed the two screws to the old ignitor and unpluged it. Pluged in the new one screwed it to the burner bracket, put everything back togher then tuned on the stove. IT WORKS!!

Removed the oven burner changed the igniter reinstalled the burner still didn't operate,gave up purchased a new range. I liked dealing with your sales department very friendly.

This is one of the easiest home repairs I have ever done. I shut off the gas and unplugged the oven. I removed the door and shelves. I then removed the two screws that secured the igniter and pulled the connector through the hole in the back of the the oven. No need to splice any wires as the replacement igniter came with the correct connector. It was then just a matter of reversing the process. Very simple and quick fix.

Replaced the oven igniter and oven works perfectly 30 seconds to light