1111WRA Magic Chef Range - Instructions

Our oven failed to cook in the Bake mode. I was thinking I needed to have a repairman come service it. I got the product manual & begin to do some research. I thought the problem was was in the control panel until a parts search took me to the Parts Select website where I read the other successful repair stories & the most likely reason it did not work. It was real simple. The only problem I had was a screw that held the ignitor stripped & I had to cut the head off. The directions sent with the part were dead on. I then simply installed new ignitor & presto - it works! My wire connection required stripping the wires & using the ceramic wirenuts. I am glad I found Part Select & will call again when needed!! Thanks !!

During removal of the original ignitor the screws would not come out. they were rusted. using some liquid wrenchI tried to remove them again and they broke. Using an angle drill and special bits I was able to drill out the screws. I re- tapped the holes and the repair was simple. My wiring required additional insulation over the supplied wiring that came with the new ignitor. Cut the wires about 1 1/2 inches from the plug and added the insulation then replaced the plug with the provided wire nuts. Mounted the new unit and all tested perfectly. Closed up oven and operates perfect as if new.

Came to this website to look for possible cause. The major fault for my problem was the igniter @ 61% of the time. So, I ordered this part @ about $55. Opened the range floor, removed two nut screws and old igniter, by unpluging. Plugged in new part reattached screws and tested before putting it back together. Worked fine, without snags. However I did pull up and remove oven door for complete access to oven.

Rick,
Detroit, MI.

i removed old part, then installed new one. easy

Removed the 3 screws fastening the ign. bracket to pan housing & gas burner, pulled out the assy., removed the 2 wire nuts, removed the shield from old ign. ceramic, slipped in new ignitor ceramic, pushed the assy. back into pan opening, replaced the 3 screws & fired it up. Gas came on within 30 sec. of ignition. Put a pie in for 45min. & completed the cycle. Enjoyed the pie. Thanks for the help Parts Select.

was very easy following the instruction in YOUR web site. I feel very thank full !!!!!, because you help me a lot!!!!!!

Slide stove out unplug remove cover on back bottom left 3 screws remove wires from old module and plug into new module could not remove old module I glued new to old replaced cover pluged back in slide stove back in and the burners lit

Remove the shelves and floor of upper oven and remove the two screws holding the glow plug. Disconnect wiring harness and replace with new one. Screw new glow plug and replace floor and shelves.
The oven worked like a charm again.

Replaced the oven ignitor. Toughest part was removing old screws.

2 screws easy to remove and plug in the wire. job done.

Well, this wasn't my first rodeo, this is the second ignitor I have replaced in my oven, first being the broiler. It is very simple, unscrew the old one, screw in the new one. The hardest part was cleaning up the mess I found UNDER THE OVEN!!!!

open oven door remove bottom tray pull off two screws unplug wire remove old part install new part

Removed the two screws that support the hot surface igniter. Removed the rear cover to disconnect the igniters wire harness and removed old igniter. Installed replacement igniter by fastening with the old screws and sending the plug harness through the ovens rear opening. Connected igniter into the harness and installed the rear cover.

Broiler lighting fine but main oven burner not lighting. I deduced the oven igniter was most likely the point of failure. Decided to replace empirically rather than time and money for service call. Process was about as easy as replace a computer part. Removed pan and flameguard. Unplugged part from below (after removing drawer). Such a simple plug I didn't bother to throw the breaker / power down the oven. Pulling it out to get to wall plug not an option. Unscrewed old part, saw a flaw had developed in the element. Screwed on the new part, plugged it in, inserted insulation in the hole. Tested for lighting - lit first time. Replaced guard and pan, oven has worked reliably since. Research time was 5x the repair time, but in all a fraction of time and money to have a "pro."

Remove lower pan. This is tricky -- pull clips at the back of the pan forward (they may stick), Then push pan to back and lift forward portion up, exposing igniter and gas tube. Use nut driver or socket set to unscrew the two mounting screws. Had to use pliers at one point to pull on screws while turning as they were cross-threaded, perhaps due to heat. Cut wires to igniter. Pull out oven and look at exterior back of stove -- at bottom near the center opening. The power feeder wires to the igniter are red and terminate in a jack -- disconnect the igniter plug connector and pull the cut wire through. Back to the inside of the stove: you now have to force the connector for the new igniter through the insulation at the back. Pull some of the old insulation out to make this possible -- new insulation is provided in the kit. Then at back of stove connect new igniter plug to power feed jack. Then screw in new igniter with the original screws. I had to use pliers again while turning to force them past the cross-threaded area. Replace bottom pan and you are in business, saving a lot of money!!