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Dryer would not heat up; blow only air
I replaced the thermal cut off kit, and the dryer now had heat. Three days later, no heat; the thermal fuse also did not have continuity. Read on-line that overheating was the most likely cause. So, I checked the exhaust duct for blockage, but it was clear. Then, I removed the exhaust canister at the back of dryer; the entire bottom was filled with lint the size of a softball. The lint was heating up, and when it got too hot, it blew the thermal cut off. Cleaned out the lint, replaced the thermal cut off, and now it's fine. Moral of the story: Remove the lint canister and clean it.
somthing fell down in the blower motor compartment and busted up the bloewr motor fan,and was making noise and out of balance.i changed the blower motor and runs like a charme
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
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Water constantly dripped into washer when it was off.
Turned off water and pulled power plug, Then unscrewed hot and cold hoses from washer. I took off the top control by undoing the 2 screws in front and then the two screws on the back plastic latches. Mover it forware and took off the 2 screws on the bottom of the back which came up and off easily. Undid the two screws holding the Water valve to the back and undid the water outlet tube and the wireing. Replaced with new valve and reattached tubing and wires. Screwed back on and reattached controls. Actually was very easy even without repair manual to the washing machine.
I had a little difficulty at first, trying to remove the back of the unit. I then figured out that the repair was to be made by leaning the washer back and removing it from underneath. That became really easy as the bottom is open.I had to remove one nut and then the agitator from inside, then tilt the machine back, disconnect the two hoses from the pump, remove three bolts and lower the motor/ transmission assembly. Then I had to disconnect the motor from the pump ( with two snap on clips) and remove the broken plastic coupling. The new coupling had a metal insert that seems to make it stronger than the original piece.I then just reversed the procedure to put it together again and it worked fine. The part was shipped immediately and I got it sooner than I expected so I greatly appreciate that. Overall it went well, and by the way, it was my daughters washer and she was happy as well.Thanks, Roger
The start switch on my Kenmore dryer was bad, causing the dryer to go into another timed cycle once it completed one cycle, and it would keep going until we unplugged it or left the door open. I repaired the switch at first, but after a couple of months the contacts bent again, so I just decided to replace it.
The new switch from PartSelect.com was only $8 or so plus shipping. Once I got the switch, I removed the rear access panel, disconnected the bad switch, and replaced it with the new switch. I closed the dryer up and it worked beautifully.
You can find detailed instructions on replacing the push-to-start switch on a Kenmore 70 series dryer on Fixya.com:
Motor was working and rotating lower portion of agitator, but the top was not spinning.
1. Remove the fabric softener receptacle
2. Remove the plastic dome shaped separator with a rubber o-ring around it (directly beneath fabris softener receptacle)
3. There is an 11mm bolt right in the center. Use socket wrench to remove bolt.
4. Remove agitator from washign machine.
5. Separate top half of agitator from bottom half (this was the most difficult part for me; unlike others who have described this repair, mine would not simply pull apart; I spent quite a while trying to pry up the white plastic clips extending from the bottom piece through the clear plastic piece that covers the "dog teeth" that make the top piece agitate)
6. Once apart, replace worn "dog teeth" with new dog teeth.
My husband actually did the repairs all I know is he removed the lid, removed the old switch and put in the new one. My washer works now and thats all I care about. I thank you for having the part and at a reasonable cost we were able to repair our washer considering it is twin stackable and is over 10 years old. Thanks again!!!!
In the spin cycle, drum would'nt spin unless assisted
First off unplug the machine then turned off H/C water supply and removed hoses, laid the machine on its side, removed 3 motor supp. bolts, loosened drum pulled out shaft and clutch assembly was right there. Also replaced coupling while it was apart. And to think, a svce company wanted 179.00 just to walk in my door and diagnose the pblm. Then, parts and labor were extra. Thanks for the help/advice, piece of cake!!!!!!!
Removed top cap on agitator w/ flathead screwdriver. Removed protective cap over bolt and cog housing shaft. Used 7/16 deep socket w/ extension to remove bolt. Removed housing where stripped cogs were located. Cogs seated loosely in shaft housing no tools required to remove cogs. Replaced cogs in housing, made sure everything was lined correctly. re-inserted housing into shaft. ,screwed bolt, replaced caps and works like new.
Tub did not center and seal was hanging out of tub
Laid washer on front side and removed top spring, then lifted the tub assembly to replace the right side spring, the one behind the motor was the hardest, I lifted the tub then removed the spring bracket at the tub with pliers and a socket. The top seal all I had to do was take the 4 screws that hold the top on (it takes a long extension) then sit it bak up and I lifted the top up to give me enough room to unsnap the top piece of the tub, cleaned it up put seal in. The parts fit perfitlt and real fast shipping, I bookmarked the site and will buy from again. JIM
valves allowed water to overflow during the rinse cycle, sometimes took forever to fill.
I removed the screws holding the control unit down, removed a couple at the rear, Disconnected the electrical clip that plugs into the top, under the control unit. This allows enough slack to pivot it ( the control unit) upside down and get it out of the way enough to remove the spring clips that hold the top to the back. Popped out the two clips that hold the back to the top. Pulled the back out, up until the plastic soap dispenser , (which is attached to the back) hits under the lip of the top. This does not allow enough room to get to the valves. I finally figured out you have to lift the entire top up high enough to clear the back while pulling it ( the back) out. Disconnected the hose clamp, electric connectors, installed the new valves into the supplied mounting plate replaced the valves . Re -connected the hose and electric connectors and re assembled the back. The only problem I had was when one of the spring retainers that hold the back to the top popped off and fell inside the unit, which forced me to remove everything including the back bottom screws, which caused the sides to pop off, the mounting ears , which are attached to the back, Took some finesse but finally retrieved the spring clamp and finished everything back together. It was a bit tricky keeping the plastic gaskets between the back and the sides from falling inside as I reassembled it. But all is well, and would have been more difficult without the expierence written by others who posted, on the site. Thank you to all, for the help. I hope my efforts will help someone else.
turned the washer on it's back and shoved the tub to the side to release pressure on a spring ,pulled it loose and installed new one. this worked for the back two then turned washer on it;s face and repeted the process on the front spring. Washer works great now.
After tearing the back off by removing the numerous 1/4 inch hex screws, and locating the schematic in the compartment behind the dryer controls, I took a multimeter on the resistance setting and tested all the components I deduced were part of the heating circuit until i found the upper limit temp fuse of was open (i.e infinite , OL, how ever your meter will display this). I ordered the kit from here and upon installation found I had a different type of Thermistat assembly then the kit came with, however, the kit did anticipate this might happen and had "some" instruction on modifying the wire harness to accommodate the part. Essentially if you have this older style you will need to do some basic wire stripping and crimping to make it all work. While I am an electrical technician on aircraft, anyone should be able to follow the how-to video on this page(which deals exactly with what I had) and with the proper tools install this part. I also cleaned out and inspected the rest of the dryer since I had it all open, including looking for burning on the heating element and inspection of the rest of the wiring harness. Finally removed the lint chute by removing the two screws located under the lint basket door, and the nuts holding it to the dryer frame and did a work over on it, finding a lot of compacted lint and debris inside. A can of compressed air helped a lot for this.
I replaced the push to start switch, but it still would not start. My son helped me and he found that the thermal fuse was bad, we replaced it and we had the dryer back to working fine. The wiring diagram was taped in the back of the dryer and it was the best help that we used.
I disconnect the power, then the vent pipe. I removed the back panel of the dryer to access the pulley and removed the belt. Replaced the back and put everything back together.
