11085862400 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Just replaced the old lint filter.

After determining that the dryer motor was the issue, I wrote down the part number and logged on to partselect.com website.

I input the number into the search box and there was the exact motor I needed.

The correct part showed up in a timely manner and the pricing was very fair.

I disassembled the dryer, removed the old motor and reinstalled the new motor within about 30 minutes.

Key point was to read the instructions first and then reconnect the wiring to the new motor. The new motor has the switch install in a different spot on the motor so be careful to follow the instructions but, the instructions were very clear and connections were very simple.

I also did some preventive maintenance while I was in the unit by cleaning out any remaining lint from the heater unit and surrounding areas, that took about 30 minutes. Reassembling was a snap and I turned on the gas, plugged it in and........SUCCESS! Total time of repair and cleaning was about an hour.

I had a load of laundry ready to go and put the new motor right to work. It has been non-stop drying and thanks to Part Select for getting everything right the first time. It has been a positive experience and I will tell others about the website if they have similar problems. Thanks again for a success story and dry clothing.

I disassembled the dryer, replaced the pulley (which was noisy), and the belt.reassembled, only to find out that the drum would not turn freely. checked all my procedures and kept having the same problem. Finally after 3 frustrating hours, I took the back off and noticed that idler arm was tight against the motor shaft, because the too short belt didn't allow for the clearance needed. Had too take everything apart ,another hour, went and found one at our local repair shop, reinstalled everything , after another two hours runs fine. would appreciate a refund. And please check your part numbers in the future. Would hate to have someone else go through what i experienced.

I noticed that drying time was increasing. I took the covers off the dryer to reach the fan and discovered that the squirrel cage fan buckets were packed with lint, and therefore not moving the air as intended. This was because the original lint filter caught most of the lint, but some bypassed the lint filter and then built up in the fan wheel buckets. The lint bypassed the lint filter because there was no felt gasket on the original filter as far as I can tell. I replaced the lint filter...and the replacement filter includes the felt seal (and fits tightly in the slide). The original lint filter has a provision for the felt seal, but I don't recall ever seeing it (and I did not see remnants of it in the fan or duct). As a matter of fact, I was always suspicious of how loosely the lint filter fit in the slide. The felt seal is not available as a replacement part from Maytag. That said, felt material 3/16"x1/2"x10ft is available from McMaster-Carr...and it fits nicely in the original lint filter.

First I pulled the dryer away from the wall and unplugged it. Next I removed the dryer vent hose and threw it away and replaced it with a more rigid metal vent hose. Next, I used a socket wrench to removed the screws holding on the back cover of the dryer. Once the back cover was off it was just a matter of using the socket wrench to removed the bolt holding the sensor in place. After the part was removed I made sure the replacement was orientated in the same way as the original part and then I unplugged the wires from the bad sensor and placed them in the same order on the new part and then I bolted the new sensor back in place. Since the new part has been installed the dryer is working flawlessly and is not turning off mid-cycle like it was. ***Oh, and an important reminder. When you have the back cover pulled off the dryer use a shop vacuum to suck out any dirt and lint in the back of the dryer and make sure you unbolt the metal chute that the dryer lint screen goes into and clean inside the area near the exhaust blower. This is a VERY IMPORTANT part of servicing your dryer and should be done every few months to help avoid the risk of a fire.****

The part wasn’t for my machine. Unfortunaly I was not able to repair it. I was sent stripe of foam with an adhesive strip on the back. I needed a felt strip.

Took the back off the dryer. Found heating element unhooked the electrical connectors to the element,the high temp thermostat and the fuse backup. Opened the front kick plate, took the casing with element, ht thermostat and fuse bu out. Changed all three parts and reinstalled them. Turned on dryer and had heat. Been working great ever since.

Pulled the lower front panel located thermal switch pulled 2 wires removed 2 small bolts pulled switch out set meter to ohms scale and tested between the 2 terminals it hailed the test I reversed for installation of new switch

Disconnect power supply, remove power cord from dryer, remove dryer vent tube from dryer, remove 2 Philips screws from power connection on dryer, remove nuts from back of dryer, remove back of dryer. Locate idler pulley at bottom of unit at the rear of the motor, pull pulley back to loosen belt and remove from pulley, remove pulley retainer clip, remove pulley and rear washer from shaft and inspect shaft for wear or rust. replace washer and pulley (no specific direction to replace them, washer first then pulley). Reverse above procedure to reassemble. This is for a front load dryer, a top load dryer is different.

I removed all of the screws on the inside of the door. Unfortunately, I found out that I only needed to remove four of the screws after the glass fell out of the door. After re-installing the glass and removing the correct four screrws, I figured out that I had to pry off the plastic face plate to get to the two screws that held on the handle. After removing these screws, I was able to get the broken handle out and the new handle in. I then reinstalled the plastic face plate and replaced the four screws that held it in place.

I replaced both the thermal fuse and the thermistor at the same time. That seemed to fix the problem; but after a couple of days the dryer would not start. When pushing the Hold to Start button, the dryer just gave one beep and would not start. I did a resistance test on the old thermal fuse, and it was OK; so I put the old thermal fuse back in and the dryer works. Evidently, it was just the thermistor (thermostat, internal bias) that was broken. Both are very easy to change.

Replaced the heating element. Took the front lower panel off, 2 screws one on each end, removed cover on left side over blower 3 screws and removed cover lower right side over heating element 2 screws. Removed 6 wires plugged into heating element cover, turned heater element cover counter clockwise and pulled out. Removed 1 screw holding heating element inside of cover, pulled out heating element. Replaced heating element back in cover putting screw back in to hold it. Put heating element and cover into hole in back of dryer turning clockwise to secure. Then put cover holding heating element over the front of it and secured with 2 screws. Put blower cover back secured with the 3 screws and put the front cover back on securing with 2 screws. dryer is heating better than ever.

The repair was done by following the instructions on this website. I'm a 68 yr old female who has surprised myself by finding the part I needed, ordering it and did the repair all by myself. My son was at the house and said he would do it for me and I told him I wanted to try myself first and if I needed assistance I would let him know. He showed me where the Phillips screw drivers were and chose the correct size and then proceeded to take off the 4 small Phillips screws on the door and the 2 at the bottom of the door under the window area. Then I removed the panel and the broken handle and replaced with the new one. Then put the panel back on the door, screwed the 6 screws back where they belonged and the job was completed. I was so excited that I actually did the repair but best of all my son was proud of me for even attempting the project.

The repair was really easy and I loved the DIY videos they were great, not many tools needed to do these repairs that was great. The only thing is this didn't solve my issue.

Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.