11065062500 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

First I removed the front kick panel to observe the drum and blower to see that both were running. I watched the element inside the heat can as well, and saw that it wasn't receiving a current (no heat, wasn't glowing). First thing I did was test the element itself by removing it from the heat can, and with a multimeter set to its lowest ohm setting, touched both terminal ends to check for continuity. The MM read 0 so it was fine. I then removed and tested the thermal fuse and the relay on the blower in the same fashion, removing them and checking them for continuity. They were fine also. I then moved on to the thermal limiter and relay on the heat can, and that's where I found a broken current. After installing both parts on the heat can, I observed the element receiving a current and the problem was fixed. I've done several loads since then and it is drying better than ever. Problem solved, for now.

This has happened several times to my KitchenAid dryer. It cost more than $100 to bring someone in to repair. Fortunately, I saved my bills and saw the part "thermal fuse" listed. I researched that and found your website. I couldn't believe how easy it was to fix. The part cost less than $15 and the diagrams you provided were a big help. I was about to purchase a new dryer, easily $500. Your site saved me a bunch of money. How I fixed? Unscrewed the back panel of the dryer. Found a part that resembled the part you sent me. Slipped it out. Put the new one in...that is it. I also figured that one reason the part keeps burning out is because my duct has to bend to get to the outside vent. The obstruction probably causes the dryer to overheat more often than not. I pulled the dryer 6 inches more away from the wall to see if that helps. My fuse was going out about every 2 years.

Was working fine one load and not the next. I remembered we had used this site for our dishwasher so gave it a try. Went with most common problem first. Ordered Sun rec'd Tues. Took longer to vacuum the back of dryer then it did to replace the fuse. Cost less than 30 bucks including shipping. Video was cool too.

i still cant get it to start i keep having that 06 code revision after i ran the diagnostic i replace the thermistor right after that the dryer start but only dry one load and wont start again then i replace the thermal fuse still not working i order the door switch hopefully that might do it

Previous consumer help advised to check the Thermal Fuse. A quick check using an ohm meter or simply connecting the leads together, confirmed that the Fuse was open and bad. The other essential item is to clean & vacuum all lint from all other dryer parts on the top, drum & back of the dryer. Be sure to also perform a check of the Cycling Thermostat, located near the Thermo Fuse. This is not a difficult repair. Just be sure to disconnect the 220 V and the circuit breaker. A $9 fuse was better than the cost of a repairman or new dryer. Barry Burke, Cincinnati, Ohio.

My dryer is one of the energy efficient models (HE). The video for the installations was knowledgeable, but getting into the front of mine only required removing to screws from the bottom left & right corner (not using a putty knife to pop the springs). the plate on the front drops after that. Also when taking out the tube with the dryer element in it took a lot more twisting inside the frame to get it loose. Still turn it after the wire connections have been pulled off a little bit better than 1/4 of a turn. Also the heating element was in there really, really tight. It required tapping on the plate with a screw driver and a rubber hammer to take it out & put in (not that tough). After putting it in a 1/4 of a turn so that the tab was inside the blower tube. everything after that was pretty easy. The video showed this all being done in a clean dryer. It has been my experience that before all is running & closed back up that a vacuum or shop vac needs to go thru there to clean things up & prevent a future fire.

I put my mind into the repair based on what I saw for a problem and what was given for advise. I was steered toward the thermal fuse, ordered and installed it. Not repaired, in checking the power backward to the panel I found that the dedicated panel had one side blown still allowing for the motor to run but not the element. hmmm

I found some help on-line that suggested some of the most likely causes. The on-line videos showed how to remove clips/panels to access the parts. Once I found the possibly failed parts, door switch and thermal fuse, I did a quick continuity check and found that the thermal fuse had an open circuit.

Took off the backplate of dryer, replaced fuse, done.

My way of replacing the pulley was much faster than the parts select video that showed how to replace the belt tension-er pulley. They took off the door, the entire front AND the drum to get to the pulley. I ACCESSED THE PULLEY BY REMOVING THE 4 INCH EXHAUST PIPE, (ONE SCREW) WHICH GAVE MORE THAN ENOUGH OPENING TO REPLACE THE NEARBY PULLEY! I suggest you remake that video

afer looking at the expoled views of the drier and locating the switch i checked to switch operation and found it wouldn't click.i ordered the switch,it arrived in just a couple days(right in the middle of the xmas holidays)i popped the top on the drier after finding 2 screws on the lint screen opening on top,2 screws mounted the switch,reassembled in reverse order and tested the drier.it was easy and with the new part in hand i saved aprox 200.00 dollars fixing it myself. p.s. please unplug the drier before starting any repairs...

First I watched Partselect's wonderful videos on what could cause the dryer from having to use multiple cycles to dry and the parts involved. I then took the back of the dryer off and tested all three parts with a multi-meter to determine which part had no resistance. The thermal fuse did not register any thing, so I ordered the part and a few days later put it in. The dryer dries in just one cycle saving on the cost of repair and electric bill. Partselect.com is my first go to sight for any repair. They make it so simple and comprehensive that any one can do the repair. I then used duct tape to make a secure connection to the duct pipe in order for it to properly vent to the outside.

Previously I had repaired two washing machines and now a dryer, which is why my mom nick named me Josephine. So ladies you can make the repairs as well.

Had a lot of trouble getting front panel off. Check You Tube for directions. Checked heating coils and thermostats and found they were OK. Cleaned lint from fan and replaced thermostats although they may not have needed it (thermal cut-off kit). Put panel back and it works. See YouTube to see how to check coil and thermostats. They may check but if something is wrong it is either them or the control board. Thermal Cut-Off Kit is much cheaper.

I watched the PartSelect video once before the part arrived. Had the part replaced in under 15 minutes. Very quick and easy.

Remove the exhaust tubing connection and the back panel (five nut screws). Locate the fuse; it is just to the right of the lint trap shoot, midway between the top and bottom of the back panel area. Replacement is visually intuitive.