11062054100 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

My dryer is one of the energy efficient models (HE). The video for the installations was knowledgeable, but getting into the front of mine only required removing to screws from the bottom left & right corner (not using a putty knife to pop the springs). the plate on the front drops after that. Also when taking out the tube with the dryer element in it took a lot more twisting inside the frame to get it loose. Still turn it after the wire connections have been pulled off a little bit better than 1/4 of a turn. Also the heating element was in there really, really tight. It required tapping on the plate with a screw driver and a rubber hammer to take it out & put in (not that tough). After putting it in a 1/4 of a turn so that the tab was inside the blower tube. everything after that was pretty easy. The video showed this all being done in a clean dryer. It has been my experience that before all is running & closed back up that a vacuum or shop vac needs to go thru there to clean things up & prevent a future fire.

My way of replacing the pulley was much faster than the parts select video that showed how to replace the belt tension-er pulley. They took off the door, the entire front AND the drum to get to the pulley. I ACCESSED THE PULLEY BY REMOVING THE 4 INCH EXHAUST PIPE, (ONE SCREW) WHICH GAVE MORE THAN ENOUGH OPENING TO REPLACE THE NEARBY PULLEY! I suggest you remake that video

We only had to tilt the dryer enough to be able to screw the leveling leg in place.The only hard part was holding the dryer steady to screw in the leveling foot.

Tested old part with ohm meter and found no continuity. Replaced old parts with thermal cut-off kit parts. Dryer heating worked.

removed 4 screws. 2 in the back and 2 at the lint screen door. Remove top lid of dryer and looked down and there was the door switch with the broken actuator spring. A diagram of the dryer with part locations is very helpful. I checked the switch with volt meter to make sure it was ok. It was ok! Replace the actuator and put every thing back together and dryer works just fine. Thanks to PartSelect I was able to buy the actuator spring buy itself and not have to buy the switch also.

Opened machine up, removed electric control panel, removed door assembly, removed lint collector assembly, removed and replaced 2 sensor bars then reassembled machine. Ended up not being the problem but, I now have new moisture sensing bars.

Removed lint filter cover (3 screws). Removed old lint filter. Adjusted metal guide. Reinstalled lint filter cover (3 screws). Installed lint filter. Replacement filter is a like quality.

replsce

I went to internet & got the part & instructions.the shipping cost more than the part. Saved 20.00 & gas.

Pushed the new catch in by hand. Working great.

I found on youtube that there are directions to repair. Dryer problems are usually one of three things, the door switch being one of them. i checked this last (should have been first). ordered the part( about 65% off sear's cost) and it came in one day! It went on really easy as long as you knew from repair video how to access inside. almost spent $400.00 on a new one.

Six(6) screws were removed to separate the front and rear sections of the dryer door to get access to the rear of the catch.Pliers were used to maneuver the catch through the opening in the cabinet from the rear. The new catch was easily snapped into the catch opening from the front of the door.

I thought it might be a damaged switch but when I removed it I noticed a metal clip that was attached to it was broken. The pin on the door pushes against this clip when the door is closed which in turn opens the circuit on the switch. I looked up the model on this website and viewed the parts diagram. There I saw the part I needed and it was listed below along with the cost. Couldn't of been easier. Thanks!

I noticed that the dryer door switch actuator spring/lever was broken on the door. I researched how to get the top of the dryer cover off, and I took apart the mechanism. I called a local repair shop and they wanted me to buy the whole unit instead of just the switch lever. So I did some research to find the part on the web, and I came across your site. It was very easy to navigate, and I fould the part easily. I saved about 66% by just ordering the lever and not the whole unit. I would without hesitation, buy parts from your website again. The part was shipped and received very quickly. Thanks again!

diagnosed problem with ohm meter. replaced thermal cutoff and hitemp thermostat