11060857990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

Removed rear panel and visually observed coil on heating element was broken. Ordered element and replaced. Works great!

unplug take off vent hose and back panel unscrew one bolt holding the fuse disconnect 2 wires. Connect the 2 wires to the new fuse hold in place with the bolt put back on the back panel and vent hose plug in and your done

Used PartSelect instructions for routing belt & a customer's valuable guidance.

Remove rear panel, unplug element & replaced with new .Then just repeated step. Patterned has sight to download instructions from. It made it really simple.

I changed the thermal fuse following instructions from the video on the site . Very easy repair, anyone can do it.

I removed screws for the lint screen - TOP. Pry up top with screw driver. Disconnected inside top front 2 screws, removed door control wires, white and blue. Lift off front of dryer. Tip dryer back about 40 degrees against wall. Remove warn belt (not broken). Relocate idler bracket on the cabinet base, follow diagram which comes with the belt package. Be very careful that the belt is NOT on the side of the idler roller. I had to do this install a second time, because I had it wrong the first time. Even though I've done this repair 5 or 6 times, there's always a first time GOOF. Not really a hard job.

Threw away the printed instructions and followed the Part Select video ,featuring Steve...

Well my husband did the install and he said it was very easy??

Instructions are available from other web sites. A few tips from me. Tape the dryer doors shut. When you remove the springs it falls open. Remember to just loosen the hex screws at the bottom of the front panel, it has slots and just lifts off of them. To easily remove the clips holding the motor bearings use a dull chisel or small pry bar on the outside half loop and tap the end with a hammer while lightly forcing it out.

Took old bearing off replaced with new

Watched a you tube video on replacing a dryer belt for a whirlpool dryer. Perfect instructions. Dryer is working great.Thank you

video on your website made it super easy

This is a straightforward repair that you can do in an hour or less. Open the lint trap and remove the two screws. Use a screwdriver to pop up the top of the dryer. Remove two screws that attach the front panel. Now you can lift out the drum and then lift off the front panel. Clean out all the lint. Make sure the motor pulley turns smoothly. Tilt back the dryer diagonally to make the rest go easier. Loop the new belt around the drum (rubber side down) and reinstall the drum against the back wall of the dryer. Make sure the cloth liner fits perfectly around the ridge, with no folds so the drum rotates easily. Make sure the drum fits smoothly against the two rubber positioning wheels on the back wall. Position the new belt around the center of the drum. On the dryer floor, stand up the tensioner bracket. Tricky part -- thread the belt so it runs through the bracket and loops around the drive pulley on the motor, rubber side against the pulley. The belt should be tight, held by the tensioner. Reinstall the front panel so the opening aligns with the drum opening. Drop the top down, snap into place.and reattach the screws in the lint trap. Done!

The video for installing the cut-off kit was wrong for this model! The lower part of the cut-off kit that I removed looked exactly like the one in the video. However for my dryer, there was no orange wire. There was no need to splice the original wiring. The jumper was all that was needed. I did not realize this until I cut off the original female connectors. Once I cut them off and realized my mistake, I had to go hunting for new female ends to connect. Lowes and Home Depot don't carry ones big enough. In short, the video turned an easy repair into a big pain in the butt. The heating element and thermal fuse installed easily.

Followed online youtube directiond to dissassemble dryer cabinet. Everything is readily accessible and belt and idler are easily installed. Comments from others express frustration at the instability of the idler pulley bracket. The key is to keep seating pressure on bracket until the belt is installed at which time the belt supplies continuous pressure to seat the bracket. The bracket is very stable so long as moderate force is applied to hold the brackett in the seat. The belt install is counter intuitive in that the ribbed side of the belt is installed in contact with the drum instead of the flat side. The readon for this is so the belt ribs seat in the grooves of the motor pully and provide greater friction. Flat side of the belt on the drum places the flat belt on the grooved pulley with much reduced contact area.