11060092990 Kenmore Dryer - Instructions

I am one Happy Gal.....Looked to fix,thought about just buying a new dryer..In the end talked to the local repair guy...said I could do it myself. (why pay him)..I live in small town.Ordered your part,watched the video and did it...Saved myself over $500, plus the $125 for delivery.for that new dryer..(Small town in the forest!)Very easy to install....Hope to use this dryer for many months perhaps years..It is 30 years old! Works like a champ! Thank You!

More time troubleshooting than repairing. Used online help for narrowing down problem to the thermal cut-off unit. Had to remove front lower cover, remove wire sets from heating element,remove element from dryer. Then it was a simple swap out of the two relays/thermistors, and put it all back together again. Unit worked as designed after repair.

Removed the bottom front panel. The difficulty was in locating and testing the components because of access. Removing the heater required removing the heat shield and bracket and restraining screws, and then pulling out the heater with pliers which was stuck because of age. Dryer now works fine.

Six(6) screws were removed to separate the front and rear sections of the dryer door to get access to the rear of the catch.Pliers were used to maneuver the catch through the opening in the cabinet from the rear. The new catch was easily snapped into the catch opening from the front of the door.

I thought it might be a damaged switch but when I removed it I noticed a metal clip that was attached to it was broken. The pin on the door pushes against this clip when the door is closed which in turn opens the circuit on the switch. I looked up the model on this website and viewed the parts diagram. There I saw the part I needed and it was listed below along with the cost. Couldn't of been easier. Thanks!

I noticed that the dryer door switch actuator spring/lever was broken on the door. I researched how to get the top of the dryer cover off, and I took apart the mechanism. I called a local repair shop and they wanted me to buy the whole unit instead of just the switch lever. So I did some research to find the part on the web, and I came across your site. It was very easy to navigate, and I fould the part easily. I saved about 66% by just ordering the lever and not the whole unit. I would without hesitation, buy parts from your website again. The part was shipped and received very quickly. Thanks again!

diagnosed problem with ohm meter. replaced thermal cutoff and hitemp thermostat

I purchased a replacement "Thermistor", "Electrode", and "Door Catch Kit" for my 2002 Kenmore Elite He3 electric dryer. I watched several repair video's but wasn't thrilled with the instructions or the high degree of "remove and replace" of components, just to get the the parts I wanted to replace. I took the top panel off my dryer and removed the troubleshooting guide. It showed that the Thermistor, Electrode, and several other components, could be accessed from the front lower panel. I removed the panel, and then the blower cover (two screws and a clip). This gave me access to the Thermistor. It was a little tight, but I removed the part with little problem. Unfortunately the Thermistor the company sent me for my dryer model was incorrect. Not only would it not seat flush in the oblong hole in the blower housing, but the male electrical connectors were a 16th to an 8th inch too wide for the female connectors on the dryer. I ended up cleaning the old Thermistor and re-installed it. We'll see what happens. The Electrode was no problem, I simply removed the lint cover from inside the dryer (3 screws), and carefully pulled the slack in the wire harness enough to remove the electrical connections from the ends of the Electrode. That could have been done without removing the lower panel, but unless you've done it before, I'd recommend removing it, and the blower cover. It gives a better view of the connections. The electrodes have a small metal catch that holds it in the plastic vent cover. You can see it on the replacement part you'll have before you remove the old one. The door catch's are a no brainer. You can look at the new ones and see how that fit. They also come with well written instructions. Good luck with your repairs.

Exactlyt how your video showed me. I was a bit skeptical, but it was the easiest repair ever.Thank you

Using some advice here on this website, and a youtube video found by searching for 'idler pulley replacement' I was able to fix my dryer! Taking off the screws was simple, I used a cordless drill. I have some trouble removing the kick panel, and bent the latches, so there is a small gap between the dryer door panel and the kick panel, but it still works fine. Of note, you DO NOT need to remove the back panel, something I did and cost me some time. I am a bigger guy, so maneuvering on the floor to rig the dryer belt around the new idler pulley "in the dark" was cumbersome, but doable. All in all, an easy enough project for under $30 and less than an hour of my time. Kudos to this website, first, for the super fast shipping, and secondly, the reviewers who posted some instruction. Great job!

Using Partselect to troubleshoot, I determined the heating element was shot. Upon receiving the part, I disassembled the unit, inserted the new element and reconnected everything. It couldn't have been simpler and saved me a ton of money.

Disconnect the dryer from the power source and vent hose. Using the nut driver, remove all hex screws and the electric access panel from back of dryer. Loosen the electrical service cable clamp screws with philips screw driver and disconnect the ground wire. Remove the top panel from the dryer cabinet and the screws that hold the electrical bus in place, then remove the back panel from the dryer. Feed the electrical cable through the cable clamp and rest the back of the dryer against the side. Remove the tri-ring and old idler pulley, then clean and lubricate (WD40) the axel, and install the new pulley and tri-ring. Replace the back panel and all screws.

Remove dryer back panel Used multimeter to find problem. Two screws held the thermostat.

We only had to tilt the dryer enough to be able to screw the leveling leg in place.The only hard part was holding the dryer steady to screw in the leveling foot.

Tested old part with ohm meter and found no continuity. Replaced old parts with thermal cut-off kit parts. Dryer heating worked.