11016102501 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

I was very happy the part arrived very fast and just what we needed, and service was super.. We took the old pump off slipped the new one into the slot and hooked the clips back on it and tighted it up and plug the washer back in and filled with water and it drained... We started doing laundry right away, and so far so good... Tired to leave a review but it won't let us into the site, but we would use the same company to order from again, thank you so much...

I did a you tube search for "no cold water in washer" and found a video for what the fix is. Afte disconecting the power and water hoses it was Unbelievable how easy it was. Two screws in the back to open it up which I watch on a you tube video which was from part select. Then two spring clamps to open the inside and expose the water valve.. One screw and a hose clip and the valve was out. Did the reverse and put it back together..

The repair video was great. I decided not to remove the outer cover as there is room to get to the pump if the washer is tipped back. The pump was easy to fix with the exception of the root cause of the failure. There was water getting to the pump shaft and over time it rusted and expanded in the pump housing causing it to split and leak. Once the old pump was removed, a file was needed to reshape the drive shaft to allow the new pump to be installed. Not bad on a 16 year old washer!

Replaced Cltch assembly. Hardest part was figuring out how to drop the motor. The clutch is located of the main shaft above the motor, under the drum. Three bolts hold the motor in from underneath, however there is a bolt at the top of the shaft in the agitator assembly. Note location of the snap ring on the shaft holding the clutch assembly, grooves in shaft. The only other issue that I had is the is a triangular metal peice that is not attached in anyway between the drum and framing. It had moved when I had the motor and had to be reset after I did my first test run of washer. Spins out great now!

First off, the replacement lid switch worked and repaired the washer. However, the replacement procedure was very difficult. I attempted to follow the directions off of the website, and then a video from YouTube. I was intstructed to remove two screws from the back of the control panel which in turn would flip up so I could get to the old lid switch and replace it. However, there were no screws on the back side of the control panel so I removed the back panel of the washer to get to the lid switch. That was a very time consuming and laborious procedure and because the back panel was installed under the molding of the control panel I had to bend the heck out of the back panel to remove it. The good news is that the replacement of the lid switch corrected the problem. The bad news was that it was the wrong procedure on getting to the part that needed replacement. I wish that I could have found the proper procedure form my particular model.

Almost identical to the instruction video that was sent. Very straight forward. I did not take apart the washer to identify the problem. I was short on time so I took a chance and ordered the highest probability cause of the symptoms indicated by your website. It was dead on; the problem is fixed. Parts were received ahead of schedule. Excellent all around.

After researching possible failure modes and reviewing a video for teardown/access from the control panel and access top down I noticed a lot of 'break dust' on top of the transmission. Shorting out the lid switch and putting my little finger on the drum, it would not spin but the clutch was spinning fine. I ordered a new clutch... Interesting thing when I was taking the clutch out... the gear it was attached to slid right off! After figuring out it was too big to go 'back' into the transmission and reviewing the parts explosion diagram... it BELONGED INSIDE THE TRANSMISSION! So I took the transmission cover off, poured out out the black-ish oil with metal filings in it, put the gear inside, filled it back up with 10W30, put the lid on, added the new clutch while it was apart and finished reassembly. Wow! It spins much better than when it was new. I guess never assume what can happen on an assembly line. Thanks for the great site.

took motor of 2 screws instaled motor coupling

The training video you supplied was right on. I watched it twice to make sure I understood the procedure. I followed the steps outlined in the video and encountered no surprises. The replacement valve was a perfect match and functioned perfectly after installation. I checked other sources for the price of the replacement part. Your price was more than competative. Thank you for a fine service.

It was really easy, just follow the video. The washer machine sounds like new now.

After alot of helpful advise from you guys I replaced coupling water pump clutch, and the problem was still their. Then I tested motor capacitor and it appears dead. So I should receive new one tomorrow and hopefully success! I turned machine over and oil leak..so that's where the string with hose and air needle come in handy to put 90weight oil in through breather hole in gear case.

Tilt the washer back enough to access the bottom of the washer. Remove two hose clamps with pliers,then remove 2 hoses attached to pump. Remove two metal spring straps and remove pump. reverse to install.

Let me start by saying that I only had to wait one day for the new water pump. Awesome! Once I figured out how to accessed the waterpump, the real challenge began. The washer had been leaking for some time and removing the old pump turned out to be more difficult than expected. The bottom clip used to secure the pump was completely rusted. It took some effort to remove the old pump but it finally came off. Once it was removed, I discovered why it was so difficult. The drive shaft from the motor was so rusted that a groove had been worn into it. I ended up using a metal file to smooth off the rust in order to install the new pump. With a bit of coaxing, I was able to install the new pump, re-attach the hoses and re-assemble the machine. It works like a charm now. No more leaking! Yeah!

Turned machine on it’s back after removing the hose that goes to the drain, removed the bottom dust guard, I removed the hoses (take a picture before removing things so you know how to orient them when putting it back together) and drained the water first but this is not necessary (there are YouTube videos where they suggest removing the outer case, unclipping the pump and then removing the motor. This would be optimal as you don't need to deal with the water running out of the washer when you remove the hoses). Removed the 4 electrical connectors (multi-plug, 1 x two prong plug and 2 capacitor connector plugs) One of the motor hangers were broken on my machine, I removed the other one and then slipped the motor out. Removed the broken hanger and securing screws and the old rubber grommets, slipped the coupling out (had to leverage out with a large flat screwdriver). Installed new coupling and rubber on the gearbox side, 4 grommets on the motor and the other coupling on the motor. Inserted the hangers on the gearbox side and then mounted the motor. (it is easier if you turn the washer on its back so the drum moves down and gives you more room to drop the motor in from the top), clipped the motor hangers on and fastened the two metal screws, mounted the pump and hoses and reinstalled the dust guard. Turned it right side up and tested before dragging it back into the laundry. Washing again like it did when first bought it in 1998. I would recommend that when a coupling brakes, replace it as well as the hangers and grommets to make sure it has no room for play. Mine broke way too quick as I did the last coupling about a year ago, problem I think was that I had the wrong grommets causing excessive vibration and wear.

I followed the instructions on youtube and replaced the drain pump. It was so easy!!! I am so proud of myself and so is my husband! I took off the cover and simply replaced the drain pump. I am such a stud! :)