11016102501 Kenmore Washer - Instructions

Short solution: Machine acted unbalanced no matter how it was loaded and replacing all of the springs seems to have fixed the problem. Long solution: The washing machine was acting unbalanced no matter how I loaded the washer so I removed the cover to see if there was anything obvious (there wasn't). After looking around online I found someone with a similar issue who replaced the suspension springs with success. So I replaced the suspension springs AND the counter balance spring but before I swapped them I did a test to see if the old springs were worn. The test was hanging a 10lb weight from each spring and measuring the stretch of the springs to figure out the "new" vs "old" K values. The results showed that the old and new suspension springs had about the same K values but that the old counter balance spring had lost roughly 50% of its spring constant compared to the new counter balance spring. So replacing one of the springs did show a measurable gain in spring strength and the issue has been resolved thus far (12 loads of laundry without issue). I would still replace all of the springs if I was doing it again because it worked for cheap. Parts arrived 4 days after ordering them and they are genuine Whirlpool parts.

went to you tube and watched a video on how to take it apart and replace the clutch assembly.

replaced it with a new cold-hot valve and everything worked perfect.

After removing and inspecting the old part, I didn't see any visible sediment buildup that would have impeded the flow of water through the valve. The problem may have been a partially burned out solenoid or just simple wear that prevented the valve from opening all the way. So I decided to replace the part. The only thing that prevented this from being a 10-minute installation was the fact that I didn't have access to the side of the machine, so it was a little awkward leaning over from the front with the cabinet tipped forward to bolt the new part on through the back. Also, I found it difficult to connect the outlet house clamp to the part once I had it on, so I had to remove it, connect the hose to the loose part, and then re-bolt the part on with the hose already connected. Still and all, a simple fix, and the washer fills very quickly now.

Used pliers to help disconnect hoses, unplugged power cord, laid washer on its back, unsnapped two clips holding pump to the motor, lifted pump off, and replaced it.

I replaced 3 suspension springs, 3 tub wear pads and 1 leveling spring (for less than $35 delivered). The springs are all very accessible once you remove the cabinet. The wear pads are also easy to get to - just tilt the tube up a little on each of the 3 corners and pull the old pads out. Before the repair, the washer shook, banged and walked so much that I thought it surely was time to get a new one. After the repair, the washer worked like new (even though it's 11 years old). I watched a short youtube video about removing the cabinet, which is very easy once you see what to do. I searched on something like "whirlpool washer repair youtube" and got multiple good videos. This repair was well worth the effort.

Video made it easy

After removing the outer shell of the machine, and disconnecting the supply hoses, I leaned the machine on it's back and disconnected the drain line. Then, it was simply a matter of removing and replacing the damaged pump with the new one. The pump is held in place by two easily removable clips. The hardest part of the whole process was making sure the shaft from the motor lines up with the corresponding hole on the pump.

So, the instructional video was great but be warned that you REALLY need to hammer the part into place. Basically hammer it into place so that the end of the shaft that it goes on is flush with the plastic piece of the coupler on both ends. Otherwise, you'll put the washer together and run a load and it'll squeal and smell like burning rubber. We had to take it apart like 3 times before we got it on there securely enough. We would then run an empty load and it would be fine but as soon as we would add clothes the squealing and burning would ensure. So, my advice is to hammer it in well and save yourself the time and struggle!

With no broke springs I thought that they might be weak so I ordered them but didn't install them as I found that the basket had a drag at one point of turning it, so I took it down to the clutch and found the nylon arm that released the brake had the small pins broken off. This would cause the brake to not release full enough that the eccentricity in it had a drag spot during the spin causing tremendous vibration. To disassemble I took the transmission off and the basket off and install new clutch assembly with the basket laying horizontal on a table. I did notice that the new clutch only had three pads on the band and the old one had six. I called you back with no satisfaction, but was given the phone # of the manufacturer and they confirmed that theirs had six pads but the part # checked out so I installed it. It now sits basically still during a cycle. I made and supervised the making of parts in a machine shop all my working carrier and I don't understand the weak link of the nylon pins milled / molded on a part that takes a lick from the actuator every cycle. It appears to me it was made to break, but it is about 20 years old. Thanks for your video help on the tube. Fred

Found part needed in partselect website, watch the video after i opened the rear panel ( i should have watch the video before doing any work :( ) that will much easier. after replacing part my washer is now working like new :). Thanks PartSelect. next project dryer ;-))

took it apart and put in the new valve

changed parts easily, following the video. Problem was the BRAKE CAM DRIVER, the plastic piece that fits around the shaft near the drum. The old one was visibly torn up, the pegs worn off, the whole thing worn down. The problem with the repair was the video showed an "E ring" holding it on and my washer had no E ring, had nothing hold it. It just sat there. Installed it anyway, although I was worried it was too loose. Sure enough there was a problem. it spun initially then started that ugly clicking noise. turned off washer immediately, disassembled again, and prayed. I found a large flat washer to take up the slack between the clutch and the plastic brake cam driver, reassembled, tightening the nuts a fair bit tighter than before. both the nuts on the transmission and the nut on top the agitator. works perfect!

Unplug washer. turn hot and cold water off. disconnect and mark water hoses. put a blanket on floor and lean washer on its back. use screw driver to remove metal clamps from water pump. use ratchet or nut driver to,,remove screws from metal clamps on motor.remove metal clamps with screw driver. unplug wire harness from motor. remove motor and remove old drive coupling and repelace with new part.

Removed the the drain hose from the pump. Removed nut from the agitator. Then laid the washer on its back after removing the inlet hoses. took out the pump, remove wire harness from motor then removed the motor. removed the three bolts holding in the the transmission. The one mistake I made was that I removed the springs for the brake shoes and this cause me to have a lot of trouble trying to put them back on. Once the clutch arrived, I removed the old clutch from the transmission shaft, and installed the new clutch using all the parts that came with it. Then put everything together in the reverse order that they were removed in.