refrigerator stopped cooling due to condenser over-heating
Pull refrigerator out to access back, unplug unit and remove the 3 .25" screws cut the power leads to motor and install new with easy to understand instructions provided with new motor. Plug refrigerator back in and enjoy your cold beverages once more. EASIEST REPAIR EVER.
Motor noise while running and clicking when shutting off
The instruction sheet supplied with the new motor described the steps to take very good. Replaced the rubber grommets for the three motor mounts also. A flashlight or light source was needed or was very helpful.
The freezer worked but the refrigerator wouldn't cool.
When we got the part, we read the instructions, which were easy and very clear step by step. Taking the old part off took most of the time, it was attached a little differently than was described in the video and the instructions for the part. Once we detached that, the replacement part went in very easily and quickly. It took a short while for the cycle to start, we were actually a little worried that it wasn't going to work. Then it started cycling. After the first day the freezer had started icing up, we took a blow dryer and melted it and waited. It hasn't started freezing up again. The refrigerator is keeping the proper temperature and the freezer is also working properly, it's been a week. We seem to be obsessed with going out and checking to see if it's working but I think it's a success. Doing this ourselves only cost $26.00. A huge savings if we had hired someone else to repair it for us. We will definitely choose this option with any other appliance that needs repair. It was easy and simple to find the correct part thanks to the website. And the video tutorial was very informative and helpful.
I removed the nuts that held the motor mount, then removed fan blade, cut the wires, and slid the motor pass the mounts and the coil shroud, Installed motor in reverse order. worked out ok.
removed lower back cover. diconnected fan ass'y electrical connection, removed fan housing (3 screws). removed fan motor from housing. cut old connector from fan and installed on new fan with wire nuts included. re-installed new fan to housing and re-installed housing to frame.
figured out the condenser fan was kaput. Tried WD, worked for several days then gave out completely. Took off back of fridge and trained small fan on compressor while I ordered new condenser fan. The swap was easy, undid the housing bolts, stripped off the connector, reconnected and voila! works perfect.
Partition between Freezer and Fridge was running very hot. (Warm is normal). Oiling fan did not work. The only problems encountered in the replacement were getting fan out and in through coolant lines, cut plug off to accomodate generic fan wiring, getting the screws back in without cooking your hand on a hot compressor. Unit works great!
Turn off water, removed two mounting screws, unplugged solenoid, removed incoming water connection and plastic pipe to ice maker. Installed new valve, connected water lines, reconnected plug, remounted with screws. Turned water back on, over rode power to ice maker and checked for leaks. Total time about 5 minutes. Very easy repair.
Removed rear cover to see non-operating fan - removed three mounting screws on the motor that were a challenge to access. Swapped fan from old motor onto new motor - one threaded nut on the motor shaft. Spliced new fan wires into fan wires of the wiring harness and mounted with three self-tapping screws supplied with new fan motor. Replaced rear cover and plugged it in! Now the refrigerator cools like new (1981 model side-by-side Admiral)
The first issue was to determine if the problem was with the ice maker or the water dispenser / pump. I chose to try to repair the dispenser first since there air bubbles in the plastic line. Also, the ice maker seems to have been working. There just wasn't enough water so the ice cubes were hollow.
I unplugged the power cord, , removed the cardboard backing and two bolts that secured the pump to the refrigerator. I vacumned the area so I could see around. I pulled the valve out and disconnected it from the internal power source. I disconnected the copper water intake and the plastic tubbing to the ice maker. I used a pipe cutter to take the old flanged area off. A new flange was included in the package. I used that and reconnected the copper intake and the plastic tubbing. I replaced the power source and secured the valve to the refrigerator makeing sure the plastic tubbing wasn't twisted. When I plugged the refrigator back up, the ice maker started working within five minutes.
The old water valve leak required me to purchase this new complete part. After shutting off the water supply, disconnect the supply line, take out the old water valve by disconnecting the "plug" from the refrigerator, and disconnect the plastic water line going into the ice maker. Then just reconnect the new water valve by plugging it into the 2 pronged receptacle, note to be sure to write down which wire goes into which input when disconnecting the old valve. Then hand tighten the plastic tube into the valve. Next attach your water supply line into the new water valve, tighten this supply line as you would any plumbing supply line with a couple of adjustable wrenches and some teflon tape at the connection. I would also recommend at this point, if the compression fitting on your supply line was like mine a bit old, to spend a couple bucks on a new fitting and put that on the supply line, since you don't want to worry about it being a good seal at the supply line point, once the repair is done. After checking for "no leaks" reattach everything to the rear of the refrigerator (make a note of the attachment before taking out the old valve) and see if your ice maker starts to make some ice. You will hear the valve feeding the water to the icemaker if all is properly setup.
first confirm that freezer is cold. if is frozen solid it needs to be defrosted. take the freezer items out,take shelf out, bottom cover, 2 screws. then ice maker, 3 screws and unplug wires. then back panel 2 screws. In refrigerator compartment were the controllers are located, look under it you will see 1 hole, insert a flat end screw driver and turn clockwise till it stops. this action will turn on your defroster, also the compressor will stop. is the heater melting the ice? if so soak up water and clean tray, use hair dryer in drain hole to aid in the defrost, check tray under fridge and if its dry keep defrosting. it should take half an hour. now take the flat head screw driver and turn the defrost timer clock wise out of defrost mode a quarter turn or so. the compressor should come back on, soon after the fan in the freezer compartment should also come on. this steps lets you no that the defrost heater works, fan works and drain hole is clear. if its defrosted place parts back in the reverse order. if not defrosted replace heater or mother board. in refrigerator compartment were the dials are located their are 2 screws, one on the left and the other on the right side take them out, the cover will drop down, you will find wiring schematics you will need them to install defrost timer. is timer making ticking sound? if no replace timer. new timer will be different from original so follow instructions that come with it. timer is above were the hole is located. the plastic hold downs will break when you try to take them off, unplug fridge, lift timer out and remove from wire harness. the new timer has a black wire that slips over either 1 or 2 depending on color of wire on the wire harness. check schematics. some silicone adhesive will keep unit in place, ad some into the plastic shaft prior to installation, plug wire harness return wiring instruction along with new one inside of cover, plug in fridge, turn defrost timer clock wise with flat head screw driver making sure that you hold timer from above so it wont move. did compressor come on?. put all paper work inside of cover before installing cover
