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Freezer and Fridge wouldnt cool
My husband replaced the condenser fan. It took awhile and a few choice words but he got it replaced. The fan seemed to work fine, but it still wasn't cooling. I noticed that when we had the fridge unplugged that water started draining out the dials at the top of the fridge under the freezer. And there was absolutely no water at all in the drip pan under the fridge. So I took the doors off and totally took the inside of the freezer apart. I discovered that the styrofoam on the floor of the freezer had become inudated with fluid and the under the foam the coils were all frozen solid with ice. Hence not allowing any drainage. I put a lamp in the freezer area and defrosted all the ice. In searching the internet i discovered that they no longer produce the foam so i went to home depot and got a piece of foam and aluminum foil and cut it to replace the ruined foam. I put the fridge all back together said a prayer and crossed my fingers and lo and behold it works perfectly now!!!!
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
23 of 24 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Just a trickle of water to icemaker and water dispenser
Turned refrig off, pulled it out for access to the valve, unplugged refrig and turned off water supply to the outlet valve. I made the installation a bit more difficult by over tightening the supply line connection which ruined the brass compression washer. I replaced it with a plastic compression washer which is probably better since the supply line is plastic. The electrical connections were very simple. I was just guessing the old outlet valve was bad since I had checked the filter. After replacing the valve, the ice maker and water dispenser work like new on a 17 year old refrigeration. Also, I was very pleased with fast processing and delivery of the order.
Freezer too warm; noticed sides of refrigertor were warm
I saw on a partselect web site that these symptoms could be caused by a failed condensor fan motor. After removing the cardboard panel in back of the refrigerator I noticed the fan was not running when the rfigerator was. The fan was held in place by three brackets. I unscrewed the screws holding the fan motor to the brackets and also unscrewed one of the brackets to make room to pull the motor out. I cut the wires close to the motor. I removed the fan blade and secured it to the new motor. I had to reroute the old wires in order to have enough slack to use wire nuts to attach them to the leads on the new motor. I then re-attached the motor to the two brackets remaining in place and then re-attacehed the third bracket I had removed to get the motor out.. The most difficult part was working in a very confined space.
Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
22 of 23 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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The old motor wouldn't turn the fan.
After moving the refrigerator away from the wall I removed the cover on the lower back of the unit by removing the screws that held it in place. The condenser fan was not turning and there was heat build up in the area causing the refrigerator to not work properly creating elevated temperatures in both the freezer and regrigerator. Removal of three torx screws from the original motor was all it took to get the motor free. By turining it and working the fan blade around the mounting bracket I had the motor out in just a few minutes. Replacing the new motor was just as easy to reinstall. The fan was removed from the old motor and placed on the new for installation. The original motor was wired to accept a connector from the wiring harness of the refrigerator. I simply cut the connector off the wiring harness and stripped the insulation from the wires which easily allowed me to connet the wires of the motor and harness with two wire nuts. Three self tapping screws were used to hold the motor in place replacing the torx screws. Installed I plugged the unit in and immediately the fan started spinning as the unit came to life. Cleaned and replaced the cover over the back and slid back into its spot. Running as good as it did when it was new. Easy job to take care of.
refrigerator would not keep running.I had to tap the cold control with the blunt end of a knife
first I unpluged the refrigerator, then removed the nob for the cold control thermostat. then I removed the plastic cover, and removed the lightbulb. this revealed the metal plate that holds the cold control. four screws held this in place.once theplate was loose I unpluged the three wires that plug into the cold control, and removed the two srews that held it in place. then I remved the cold control thermostat, replaced it with the new one hooked up the wires, replaced the metal plate and lightbulb,and the plastic cover. plugged the refrigerator back in, and turned it back on works great now. I hope this will help others to make their repairs easier thanks, gary
The repair was incredibly easy - 1. Turn off the water at the water line for the fridge 2. Disconnect the pressure fittings for both lines running to the resevoir. 3. Remove the old resevoir 4. Install the new resevoir and run the lines back to the orginal fittings. 5. Reconnect the fittings, turn on water. 6. Drink water!
Get refrigerator out away from the wall. Disconnect from power. Loosen 3 and remove 3 or 4 screws to uncover fan, compressor and water inlet valve (WIV). By hand remove plastic hoses that feed the water dispenser and ice maker feed. Unscrew 2 screws that hold WIV her you need the Spring U Joint (SUJ) or equivalent. Pull wires and make mental note or picture the way they fit. They retain the memory the way they came out. With adjustable or wrench remove tube that comes from the filter. Remover black rubber protector from WIV. Install the last hose you removed. Tighten by hand and finish with the wrench used to remove it. Don't over tighten. Maybe 3/4 turn or less after hand tight will do. The difficult part is to re-install the screws that hold the WIV in place, again you need the SUJ. The alternative would be to empty the shelves from anything that will spill or break and have someone tilt the refrigerator and access from below. I used the 1st method as I didn't have the extra help. Install the water dispenser hose (by hand), blow compressed air to the ice dispenser hose to clear the ice. There is another plastic hose just above and behind the dispenser which must be removed to clear the ice that is being blown. After the ice is clear re-install the one in the freezer. That one is just pressure held be careful not to break when replacing it. Re-install by hand the ice dispenser hose to the WIV. Replace the cardboard cover that was 1st removed to access the components. Power the refrigerator and you are ready to make fresh ice. My ice maker lever was stuck at 1st. I released pressure from the metal wire lever and wiggled up and down several times to loosen up.
Nutdriver, Socket set, Wrench (Adjustable), Wrench set
20 of 26 peoplefound this instruction helpful.
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Water began to leak under the refrigerator. Source looked like it was coming from control valve suppling water to ice maker and water dispenser.
Followed instructions supplied. It was relatively easy and the parts fit exactly right. Sears wanted twice as much for the part and service would have charged me another $100 to come to my home. I saved over $100 doing the project myself.
First I Removed the racks. Next 3 hex bolts that secured the ice maker. Undid the ponytail wiring. 3 Phillips screws to remove the metal back. unplugged the Evaporator Fan Motor. Replaced the new one. reassembled.
tested bulb good ,replaced door switch first(least expensive)then ordered light socket and circuitboard.If clicking sound is heard replace circuitboard first to save on return shipping because the switch and socket where ok
Unplugged the fridge, emptied the freezer, removed the panel screws, removed the fan assembly retaining nuts, slid the spade wire connectors from the tabs, and performed these tasks in reverse to have the fridge up and running like new. I am not an appliance repair person, but I am not intimidated by simple repairs. Your instructions were easy to follow, and the cry in the kitchen of "we need a new refrigerator" was silenced for less than $50.00. Thanks!
Freezer was not staying cold enugh for ice maker to work. Discovered fan was not working to cool condensor. Fan motor would only run if manually turned.
Unplugged refrigerator. Removed lower back access panels and panel running up the back of refrigerator. Removed and disconnected old fan. Removed old fan motor from mounting bracket. Removed fan blade from old fan motor and placed on new fan motor. Connected new fan motor to power supply. Tested. Reinstalled.
I took the cover off the control settings and found the timer. Removed two screws and replaced the defective one with the new one. Had to pay attention to directions since the timer is used in different ways and to make sure the loose wire was installed correctly (not the same way as the original ground was connected).
Removed 2 control panel knobs and face plate that is snaped in place using a knife to prey it causing to snape lose. Removed 4 cover screws that gave me acess to Defrost Timer. Remove two fastining screws on timer unit. Remove electrical color coded 4 prong connector plug. Have to make sure black jumper wire on the new timer kit is connected to the correct one of the 4 prongs as to instruction sheet for my model refrigerator. Reassemble in reverse order. Bingo! Fixed.
We rolled the refrigerator out away from the wall and it was obvious where the break was located. We took out the old water spout for the ice maker and replaced the tube and the tubing from the solenoid. We turned it on and soon we had water dripping everywhere. We unloaded and defrosted the freezer which got all of the remaining ice that was stuck in there. We put everything back together. I read in some instructions in the manual that it might take 24 hours for the ice maker to reprogram itself and start producing ice. I was only about 12 hours and we had ice again and everything worked well. You really do not have to disconnect the water from the main line, the solinoid controls that part of operation and turns the water off until the ice trays are free and clear.
