10651584201 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Went online and found troubleshooting steps for this particular make, model, issue and ordered the parts recommended. Unplugged the refrigerator and removed the screws from the back panel and located the parts easily by using the instructions with pictures provided with the parts. The parts simply popped out without tools and popped back into place. Replaced the back panel and plugged in the refrigerator. Works like new.

Your web site was great. There was a short step by step video on how to remove and replace the ice door kit and tools required. The only additional tool I used was Blue Tape so I could stabilize the inner control panel out of way onto Door.If I need more appliance parts I now know where I am ordering from!!

Neither the OEM instructions nor any of the PartSelect videos explained BOTH ends of the tube for my particular appliance. All very thoroughly covered the obvious connection with the water valve from the wall. However, the push valve end for my KitchenAid is supposed to insert into the water filter chassis, which can barely be seen from the back of the appliance, much less reached with any tool. In order to make the repair, one must either remove the water filter chassis (which I attempted unsuccessfully), or put the appliance up on jacks in order to reach the push valve site.

Removed to old motor by removing screws and disconnecting power source and replaced with the new motor and plugged back in power source

Using a 1/4" ratchet removed the old motor, a bit difficult due to small space to get your hand and ratchet in position. Before installing the new motor I used one of the screws to tap the the 3 holes in the new motor so it would be easier to start the screws attaching motor to mounting bracket. Attached cable. plugged in the fridge. Great to hear a quit running refrigerator again.

Watch the Video! My reefer's ice door/spring 'pin' removal and installation is different than what is shown in the video. That is, my spring 'pin' looks more like a long nail (with a head on the right end). After inserting the left end of the pin into the hole, the head end drops down into a notch, which makes removal and installation easier than what is shown in the video. It is much easier to reinstall everything if the 'ice-chute' is installed first. Then, maneuver the ice door assembly into place and install the pin. I used Blue masking tape to hold the control panel up and out of the way. This is the second ice-door repair since I've had this refrigerator. It seems to occur with 'heavy' use of "crushed" ice. Some crushed ice backs up behind the ice door/flap, jams/holds the flap open, letting warm air into the freezer, causing the crushed ice to freeze into a big 'clump' of ice (too big to come out of the chute, and causes frost in the freezer. If you get a clog like this, I suggest removing the ice "bin" and gently clearing the clog from the top side of the ice chute with tongs or needle nose pliers. If you try to remove the clog from the bottom of the ice chute, the door becomes dislodged or breaks...

I am a woman, not mechanically handy, but set my mind to do this myself. The part came in 2 days. I watched the video and had it in done within minutes. Very easy! A few scews and follow video.

Thermostat replacement

With service sheet, Enter service dagnostic mode, NO-6 is Desrost heater / Bi-metal Component status indicator shows 02 , it means Bi-metal is open, It should read 01,It's cover with Ice ( bellow 32 Dig. F )Mostly it open at 50 dig. F, To replace remove lamp cover and lamp + six hex screw with 1/4" nut driver, pull back cover ( with commen requirement to turn of power and deice the evaporator coil )out, bi-metal element is top at enterance of coil,cut both wire near bi-metal, join new bi-metal with wire nut or Insulated wire Jointer, Tape jonts proper,do neat work no hanging wire, Replace back removed parts back,Turn power back

Removal of the old heating element was really easy. The video on Partselect.com was majorly helpful in reassuring my confidence in doing this repair.

I watched your video and did just as he did. The video made it real easy and rather simple. It looked like it was going to be a mess until I watched the video.

Unplugged the refrigerator removed the cover and 3 screws. Pulled the old part off and replaced with the new and screwed it back on. Replaced the cover plugged it back in and it started working again.

I decided not to open the package containing the Control and motor asm because the old one looked like it was cycling properly. I chose to try the inlet valve first, so I ordered the inlet valve and returned this part unopened after replacing the valve asm. It took a week to receive this part and just two days to get the valve.

My husband and I followed the instructional video on how to replace the "direct drive drum". We took note of how everything looked prior to dismantling the ice bin. We made sure we had the proper tools and a large flat surface to work on and started taking out the screws. Replaced the new drive drum part and put it all back together. The whole process took approximately 30 minutes and the ice crusher works great now. I'm a happy camper!!

Unplugged it for a day listened to the ice melting on the inside and plug it in again. Decreased the temperature settings and it now seems to work fine. I will save the part in case I ever need it in the future.