10650454901 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Simply remove the cover over top hinge and remove the three outer screws (Do NOT remove the center screw). Lift the door off the lower pivot pin. Turn door upside down and replace the upper cam and then the lower cam on the pivot at the bottom of the refrigerator case. Reintall the door by setting the door on the lower pivot and then reinstall the top pivot and cover. VERY easy and what a difference. No more "POP".

The emitter code: Hold the flap that covers the receiver. (On the left) If the emitter does not stay red, the emitter and receiver are defected.

Replaced the emitter and receiver board

Unplug the refrigerator:

I first removed the ice-maker service door by removing the 2 screws at the top. Next, I removed the 3 screws on the lift side that housed the receiver. It is close, so remove the 1 gold screws on the receiver. This will allow you to separate the switch without any damage. Plug the new receiver in and reverse the process. Put the gold screw in to secure the board. Replace the 3 screws back into the receiver panel.

Remove the 3 screws on the right side. The emitter has 2 gold screws. Remove them so I could separate the switch. Plug the new switch in and replace the 2 gold screws.
Place the 3 screws back into the right side panel.

This process took roughly 30 minutes. After assembly, the ice make was dropping ice in 30 minutes.

There are several large parts places in my area but I saved about $35 by ordering online.
I place my order on Friday morning and the part was in my hands Saturday @ 6: 30 PM the next day.




Oliver of Riverdale, Ga

Removed one screw that hold the cuopling and installed the new one. That it

Unpluged fridge, removed 3 screws from each control board (1 on left side and 1 on right side in freezer below ice maker compartment, unplugged and swopped out with new ones. Did one side then the other. Learned about the issue from other people on PartsSelect. Coulden't have been easier. Got parts in 2 days. Works like a charm now.

Purchased the closing cam (both pieces). Removed door (3 bolts under the dust shield on top of door) and replaced the plastic cam pieces. So easy a caveman could do it. I actually had my 13 year old son do it while I supervised!

Originally I took the module off and found that a small plastic part had broken. Both pieces were still there, so I super glued them together and reassembled the unit. It worked great for a couple months. I realized it needed a more permanent fix, so I found the model # and looked up the part. That was very easy on your website. I ordered the part expecting it to take 4-7 days. It was at my house in two days! 15 minutes later I was makin' ice, and makin' my wife happy. Thank you for an all around great experience. I'll definitely buy from you again.

easy - remove the door, replace th part, put back the door

While trying to get my icemaker to unjam (ice all stuck together) I broke the coupling under the ice bin. Shouldn't have tried to force it, but you learn from experience...
I found the diagram of what I needed to order on the website and ordered the part, which arrived in about 2 days. Dumped the ice out of the bin, removed the screw that held in the broken coupling, replaced the coupling and replaced the screw. Put the ice bin back into the freezer door and Voila.. ice dispenser works again.

Removed the Wiring & Troubleshooting instructions from behind the front Grill and used to troubleshoot the KSCS25IN side by side refrigerator. I then removed the three screws from the Emitter assembly on the left side of the freezer. Then disconnected the four pin connector. Removed screw holding emitter PCB to housing and replaced with the new PCB and then re-installed. Similar steps for the Receiver assembly and PCB on the right side of the freezer. Unit started making ice after making some water level adjustments on the Timer assembly.

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

I did an internet search about the problem and found the information and experience that other people had. Ordered the part and that's it. One important thing to remember is to unplug the power supply of the appliance prior to making any repair. I short circuited the original board when I tried to plug it back in after cleaning the optics. (The board might have been bad before that.) The red light stop working but the frige is making ice non stop!!

I first had a technician come out to the house and he wanted to charge nearly $300 to replace the icemaker unit. I told him he was "high" and began doing my own research of the problem. That's when I found this website (thank God!) and read the notes from other customers. I figured out the secret location of the KitchenAid icemaker troubleshooting guide (why they hide this information I have no idea -- it's ridiculous), and performed the diagnostics to determine the exact problem. That is how I discovered that the emitter and receiver control boards were bad and not the icemaker motor module as the technician had tried to tell me. Good thing I didn't pay him, because my icemaker still wouldn't be working! The electronic control boards are a piece of cake to replace -- just 3 screws on each. Be careful with the electronical connectors since they snap in - don't pull on the wires, first unhook the snaps holding the wire connector to the board and then disconnet it. Once I replaced the boards I turned my refrigerator back on and immediately I heard the water running to fill up the icemaker and not much later I heard my first piece of ice hit the bucket. Woohooo!!!! It feels nice to fix a problem myself for a reasonable price. This site rules. I'll be coming here again in the future!!!

Emptied the ice holder, then removed the two screws located in the bottom of the ice holder. they were holding the metal cover in place, once removed I was able to remove the entire rotating ice prongs which moved the ice into the chute. I had to do this because the screw that held the coupling on could not be removed (too tight) Once the entire rotating device was removed I could easily remove the screw and replace the entire assembly.

Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the On/Off button at the top to turn off internal power. Open the freezer door and move the icemaker switch on the right side freezer wall to "off".

To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.

The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet.
Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.

Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.

The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.

Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.

Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.

Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.

Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.

The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.

One front roller was flat on one side. Decided to replace all rollers at same time. Placed shims under unit and removed mounting screws for one front and one rear roller. With new rollers in place, I was able to level the refrigerator side to side, but unable to do so, front to back. Left the new front roller in place and reinstalled the old rear roller. Have decided to replace refrigeratorin the near future. This is one of my few repair failures!