10650269993 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

replaced the valve

Removed (snap on)removed screw, and ice dispencer side (door and Pin) You have to assemble to reinstall (not easy to install while assembled) Install the pivot pin the rest of the way with the new spring mounted and when unit is almost in place, install the pivot the rest of the way, install tension hold downs that old both the water and ice dispenser shafts, reinstall cover, reconnect wiring and test, I had to remove the plunger because the water wouldn't shut off fast enough. Unit works great now.

Put in new motot and control

The plastic control bracket would not "lock" in place because the plastic detentes broke, not allowing the ice maker dispensing 'paddle' to engage the micro switches that allows the ice maker to eject ice. An easy repair of replacing the entire plastic control bracket.

repair went good .only had problem removing tube from clip in front

After our four year old refrigerator door wouldn't stay closed as a do it yourself kinda gal I found this website that assisted me in an easy and inexpensive fix. The "plastic" yes, "plastic" piece on the bottom of the door was worn down to nothing. My only suggestion is to call in your order, the customer service folks will help you order the right cam for your model. The next thing is to change both cams if you have a side by side. We changed the fridge side which fixed the problem, then realized the cam on the freezer needed to be changed to make it level. Great customer service!

Removed 3 screws pulled out the old part and replaced it with the new one. Then plugged in the refrigerator and the repair was complete.

I called the 800 number and the lady was great to work with and helped me thru all the order process and confirmed the numbers. She also told me she would try to get the order out that day which she did and I had the part two days later. When it arrived I went to the web site and reviewed the video and went to work and all went as the video said. Thanks for the help and if i need another part I will visit your site or call.

Perfect fit. Slides smoothly. Arrived quickly. Thank you for a very easy web site.

I watched the video showing how to disassemble unit and it showed that there was a heat element inside the chute door under the foam seal that needed to be removed and placed in side the new chute door. I spent about 10-15 minutes trying to salvage the element but the adhesive used would not release and the part was rendered unusable. I called the help line and was told that their instructions on that kit said the heating element was no longer required. I finished putting the kit in and the unit works fine

My Whirlpool refrigerator frezzer was not defrosting and the refrigator was not cooling. I followed the symptom parts advise (Defrost Timer Kit and the Bimetl-Def)of P/S. I pulled out the refrigerator from it inclosure and unpluged it, (note the shelf supports, the thinner ones are on the left side) I remove the shelfs and their supports,I removed the interior back cover of the frezzer, using a hair dryer I melted the frozen ice from the frezzer coile. Once all the ice was melted away, I cut off the old BIMETL-DEF and attacth the new BIMETL-DEF making sure the color wires are match correctly and using electrical connection plugs and electric tape I reconnected the wires. (2) I followed the video instruction for replacing the Defrost Timer Kit I found it to be quite easy to follow. The most deficult part was trying to position my body to remove the screws. I used an old CREDIT CARD to remove the face of the Refrigerator control buttons in order to access the compartment which house the Defrost Timer kit. I removed the old Defrost time kit and replaced it with the new one (following the Video instruction). I replace the frezzer cover inserting the lower four screws then using an old Credit Card I forced the top end of the frezzer cover under its retaing wall. I then replace the remaining two screws. JOB DONE

I followed the video instruction to a tee. It's exactly as described. However . . . my old plastic cam was so worn out that it had mushroomed within the inside of the door and would not come out without some "coaxing". And of all times to be unable to locate my needle-nose pliers, this was just plain bad timing. The cam was removed in pieces with the aid of a razor knife and a regular pliers. It took some additional time (approx. 1/2 hr.), but eventually it came out. Once this happened, the rest was a breeze. Moral to the story: Replace the cams on these doors every 5 or 6 years, whether it's needed or not. An ounce of prevention is worth 30 pounds of cure and avoided frustration. And for the few dollars spent on the cam, it just doesn't make sense not to.

Removed hinged door from front of ice maker. Removed screws from bottom of ice maker. Removed ice maker unit and replaced control board. One pin connection was burnt. Reassembled unit and it works fine.

I just followed the enclosed instructions

Your web site was great. There was a short step by step video on how to remove and replace the ice door kit and tools required. The only additional tool I used was Blue Tape so I could stabilize the inner control panel out of way onto Door.If I need more appliance parts I now know where I am ordering from!!