Repair went well,took about five to ten minutes to disconnect the power from the fridge removed the defective switch installed the new one ,reconnected the power,,,and Let there be light and there was light!
Referencing the info/schematics you have on your website, I unscrewed/unattached top-front panel (carefully), from behind the panel you have to detach the wires (2) from the switch, pushed "in" the switch to remove, put in new switch and attach wires to test BEFORE remounting panel. Tada!! Thank you PartSelect! You saved me at least $80...would have been at least $100 to have a repair person come to the house!
1. Put pieces of wood under door to support it. 2. Unscrew three screws holding door hinge. 3. Disconnect water line. 4. Unscrew screw holding each cam. One to door and one to hinge. 5 Replace cams. 6. Retrieve plate with threaded holes behind frame that the hinge attaches to. 7. Use thin philips screwdriver through the hinge bracket, shim, frame and screw plate to align it for the other two screws. 8. Replace all three hinge screws. 9. Connect water line fitting. 10. Remove wood for door support. 11. Check door for smooth movement and strong pressure when closed.
Freezer work perfectly, Refrigerator Stopped getting cold, water line froze, there was ice Forming around the condenser in the bottom of the refrigerator behind the drawers
Freezer worked great, refrigerator stopped getting cold and lots of ice formed around the condenser on the bottom of the refrigerator. First I had a serious ice issue, ice build up around the bottom of the refrigerator and all through the cold air vents, condenser and cooling fan. I unplugged of the fridg and let defrost over night. I also took all the cold air vents out and cleaned them. Then I followed the switch install video very simple switch install. Now the Refrigerator works Great nice and cold.
Removed the old parts then connected the new parts.
The compressor immediately started when I plugged the refrigerator back in. Around 24 hours later the freezer compartment was at 0 degrees, and the refrigerator was at 35 degrees.
Freezer Temp was -20 to -30 degrees F. and did not defrost because of the extreme low temperatures.
The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.
Light switch wasn't working.. As I would close the door I would notice our frig light wasn't going off...
I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!
inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out. then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.
Refrigerator door on a side by side unit would not stay closed.
First empty the shelves on the refrig. door. Then removed the upper hing cover and removed the three screws holding the hinge to the body of the refrigerator. Lifted the door off the bottom hinge and placed it clear of the unit. Inspected the bottom hinge and cleaned off the screw holding the closing cam, then with a nutdriver removed the screw holding the cam and removed the cam from the hinge. Installed a new cam closer, secured the cam with a screw. Hanged the door back on the lower hinge and re-installed the upper hinge. Job Complete!
light on inside, fridge and freezer warm up after initially cooling
Fridge/freezer warm. After unpluging and plug in again, both would get cold. Then, ice would partially melt in the freezer only to refreeze later. Noted large temperature swings in freezer-up to 48 degrees during defrost cycle. Finally after a day or two, both sides warming up permanently to room temp. Tapping inside the fridge near the cold control (thermostat) would cause the warm fridge/freezer to cool again. Installation is simple. Remove knobs and snap on face plate in front top of fridge. Remove screws allowing plastic cover to drop down which houses the thermostat at the inside top of fridge. loosen two mounting hex head screws from thermostat mount. Remove two plastic covers concealing thermostat wire that travels to vent at back of fridge. Remove thermostat. remove plastic tube over wire on old thermostat by slipping it forward and slide tube on to new thermostat wire. Install is the same in reverse. A thermometer in the freezer confirms very little temperature variation after install (3-4degrees); ice no longer melts, unit stays on!
Refrigrator door made loud pop when opening and closing.
Simply remove the cover over top hinge and remove the three outer screws (Do NOT remove the center screw). Lift the door off the lower pivot pin. Turn door upside down and replace the upper cam and then the lower cam on the pivot at the bottom of the refrigerator case. Reintall the door by setting the door on the lower pivot and then reinstall the top pivot and cover. VERY easy and what a difference. No more "POP".
