10648067892 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Watched your video pull the door off switched parts and all done . Thanks to your web site it helped me diagnose and fix the problem

Just like the video I watched online at your web site. piece of cake.!!

If you have to push your door to close it and it doesn't close on its own, this is your fix. These door cams are two plastic pieces on the bottom hinge, one on the door and one on the bracket that goes to the body, that engage like a gear with only a couple of teeth. They are supposed to have raised teeth that engage to ride the door to a closed position when it is nearly closed. They are plastic and are made to wear down. To change, empty the door, then at the top of the door (i.e., looking down from above) unscrew two bolts that go to the hinge. The door then lifts off the bottom bracket. Put the door on a soft surface and unscrew the bolt that holds this cam. You can re-use the bolt. There is another cam bolted to the bracket that stays attached to the fridge. Change both cams at the same time. Reverse the process to re-install the door. Your door will close like new for under $10, in maybe 15-30 minutes.

Upon arrival I unpacked drawers and set in their location

Unplugged the refrigerator then removed two vertical screws on the very back back of the control panel (the ones with the washers). Do not remove the four other vertical screws in the panel. The front plastic plate on control panel snaps off and there are two horizontal screws under the plate. Remove them and the control panel will drop down allowing access to the light switch. Unplug the two wires (one black and one white) from the old switch. Discard the old switch, snap the new one into place and reconnect the two wires. Snap the front plastic plate back into place, plug in the refrigerator and you are done! Problem solved with a new $16.00 switch and saved at least $75.00 or more from an appliance repair call. Thanks Part Select!

Removed cardboard, Removed 4 bracket mounting screws, Removed plug, Removed screws securing motor to bracket. . Installed new motor on bracket, Installed fan on motor shaft , installed new pigtail on motor, Installed new assembled motor and bracket, Hooked up pigtail to electric supply, Installed cardboard, Plugged in to power supply and Voila, not even one foul word during the whole process. Note: watch the factory video. Thanks.

I went on line to find the symptoms for what I was experiencing and went to web and entered the "KSRA" alphas and this list came up. I followed the explanation on video and it was identical. Good stuff.

Technically, the repair did not require specialized knowledge. However, replacement of the motor required some effort. Because the motor is located at the bottom of the unit in an area with copper tubing & wiring hindering access it was physically difficult to remove and then replace the motor. A problem arose because the shaft on the replacement motor was larger than the original motor's. Thus the fan would not fit on the new motor. Luckily, I found a fan locally that fit the motor. It would be very helpful if a fan was included in the motor kit. The ref. is now running smoothly

Very simple repair. Followed the video instructions. Simply removed a few screws and nuthead screws. Removed the cover plates. Removed the old thermostat switch. Removed the plastics tubing over the temp sensor probe. Put the plastic tubing on the new sensor probe, ( rubbing a slight amount of vegetable oil on the probe to allow the tube to slide on easier,). Reinstalled the temp probe. Reinstalled the new switch. Connected the wires to the switch. Reinstalled the cover plates and screws. And the job was complete. Almost took me longer to write this out, than it did to complete the project. Hey, it was an easy fix.

Removed the cover from Thermostate, removed the wires, and screws holding old thermostate, reversed instulation with the new thermostat, pretty simple.

I removed the top door hinge cover, removed the top hinge, pulled the refrigerator door off, layed it on the floor, removed the door cams, installed the new door cams, replaced the doo and top hinge and hinge cover. If you have this problem with your refrigerator door, be sure to replace the upper and lower cam.

Viewed the viedo - it showed what to do

We had a refrigerator that had no ice maker at all, but it had the wiring behind the freezer panel and the wiring for the solenoid valve at the bottom of the refrigerator. The installation went easy for me, but I do not think the average homeowner could handle it. There are always little variations from model to model so some of the diagrams were not quite the same as my unit. But all the necessary parts and hardware were there and the install went fine. its crabnking out perfect ice like crazy.

Removed door, removed both upper and lower cam and replaced, applied small amount of vasoline and replaced the door. The entire repair took less than 5 minutes. Door works great. When replacing the cam you need to replace both the upper and lower cam. When you order the parts, the upper cam is on the door schematic and the lower cam is on the refrigerator body schematic. I originally only ordered the upper cam.

All I did was removed the stickers and place it in the frame - no tools required. It fit perfectly and is since it is clear (the original one has a grid pattern in it) I can easily see everything in the drawer below. I will be more careful in cleaning this one - apparently the temperature difference from cool to warm caused it to break, so I will just wipe this one down rather than submerging it in water.