10645422801 Kenmore Refrigerator - Instructions

Replacement of parts was simple. But there are three main reasons that ice maker quits: door sensors stop working; ice maker, or it control system, stop working, or the coil controlling when water is released into the ice maker stops working. It was easy to replace the door senors; repairman replaced the ice maker and control board, which is located in one end of ice maker, but it ended up being the coil or simply a frozen water outlet into the ice maker that stopped the system from from working. The first thing you should do is to make sure that the water outlet into the icemaker is not frozen - use a hair dryer to melt frozen ice in the outlet - don't melt the plastic outlet with high heat. If the system still does not work go to this: look at red sensor on door to the the right. If it blinks twice in a couple of second with a time out and then repeats over and over, close the door on the receiving sensor on the left hand side of the casing and if the red light comes on steady then the sensor is working properly. So, now you have the coil that turns the water on and off or the water maker itself that can be bad. It will be one of these that are at fault, but not both. Call a repairman.

inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out.
then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.

PartSelect found and shipped the part quickly and with low postage directly to my door. I didn't have to worry about not being at home to accept the part and having to make a trip to the post office with a yellow slip.

Easy repair, unplug the fridge and then remove the 3 screws on each side of the freezer holding the emitter and receiver. Swap the boards and re-install. Takes less than 10 minutes.

removed the LED covers on both sides of the freezer, unplugged each circuit board, plugged in both circuits, replaced the LED covers, job complete, making ice

I simply removed the old switch by gently pulling down on the old switch with a screwdriver. When it was about half way out I just gently pulled down on the old switch and it popped out... I removed the two connectors attached to the old switch by pulling on the connectors with a pliers...I tried using my fingers but wasn't able to pull the connectors off so I used pliers. It worked perfectly.. When pulling off the old connectors, make sure you attach the new switch to the same tabs on the new switch... It was very easy to do and took under 5 mins.....The light switch works perfect....P.S. You should unplug the frig while making the connection just in case....Safety first....!!!

The light rocker switch wasnt working. I found the part on the web site. It was so easy. I used a screw driver to pop out the old one and pop the new one in. It took 5 min. Thanks!!!

The emitter code: Hold the flap that covers the receiver. (On the left) If the emitter does not stay red, the emitter and receiver are defected.

Replaced the emitter and receiver board

Unplug the refrigerator:

I first removed the ice-maker service door by removing the 2 screws at the top. Next, I removed the 3 screws on the lift side that housed the receiver. It is close, so remove the 1 gold screws on the receiver. This will allow you to separate the switch without any damage. Plug the new receiver in and reverse the process. Put the gold screw in to secure the board. Replace the 3 screws back into the receiver panel.

Remove the 3 screws on the right side. The emitter has 2 gold screws. Remove them so I could separate the switch. Plug the new switch in and replace the 2 gold screws.
Place the 3 screws back into the right side panel.

This process took roughly 30 minutes. After assembly, the ice make was dropping ice in 30 minutes.

There are several large parts places in my area but I saved about $35 by ordering online.
I place my order on Friday morning and the part was in my hands Saturday @ 6: 30 PM the next day.




Oliver of Riverdale, Ga

Removed the Wiring & Troubleshooting instructions from behind the front Grill and used to troubleshoot the KSCS25IN side by side refrigerator. I then removed the three screws from the Emitter assembly on the left side of the freezer. Then disconnected the four pin connector. Removed screw holding emitter PCB to housing and replaced with the new PCB and then re-installed. Similar steps for the Receiver assembly and PCB on the right side of the freezer. Unit started making ice after making some water level adjustments on the Timer assembly.

I did an internet search about the problem and found the information and experience that other people had. Ordered the part and that's it. One important thing to remember is to unplug the power supply of the appliance prior to making any repair. I short circuited the original board when I tried to plug it back in after cleaning the optics. (The board might have been bad before that.) The red light stop working but the frige is making ice non stop!!

I first had a technician come out to the house and he wanted to charge nearly $300 to replace the icemaker unit. I told him he was "high" and began doing my own research of the problem. That's when I found this website (thank God!) and read the notes from other customers. I figured out the secret location of the KitchenAid icemaker troubleshooting guide (why they hide this information I have no idea -- it's ridiculous), and performed the diagnostics to determine the exact problem. That is how I discovered that the emitter and receiver control boards were bad and not the icemaker motor module as the technician had tried to tell me. Good thing I didn't pay him, because my icemaker still wouldn't be working! The electronic control boards are a piece of cake to replace -- just 3 screws on each. Be careful with the electronical connectors since they snap in - don't pull on the wires, first unhook the snaps holding the wire connector to the board and then disconnet it. Once I replaced the boards I turned my refrigerator back on and immediately I heard the water running to fill up the icemaker and not much later I heard my first piece of ice hit the bucket. Woohooo!!!! It feels nice to fix a problem myself for a reasonable price. This site rules. I'll be coming here again in the future!!!

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the On/Off button at the top to turn off internal power. Open the freezer door and move the icemaker switch on the right side freezer wall to "off".

To get access to the icemaker, first remove a hinged plastic door that mounts to the ceiling of the freezer compartment by two hex screws. Remove the screws and the door so you can work with the icemaker without interference.

The icemaker assembly will slide out once the wireharness has been disconnected. To disconnet the wire harness, a while plastic shield has to be removed from the right side of the icemaker, just behind the water inlet.
Locate a hex screw on the bottom right rear of the icemaker and remove it with a socket wrench. Then the plastic cover can be pulled off.

Slide the icemaker out enough so you can get your fingers on the plug connector. It takes some effort to pull the plug connectors apart. Once unplugged the whole icemaker assembly can be removed.

The motor module is located on the left side and is protected by a white cover. This cover is not attached so it can be pulled off to reveal the motor module.

Remove 3 screws from the outside of the motor module and the module can be pulled out of the housing. Insert the new motor module. The module turns the shaft of the ice srapper arm. the shaft has a D shape which mates with the hole in the motor module so you may have to roatate the scrapper arm until the shaft shape matches up with the hole shape in the motor module.

Once the motor module is seated, replace the 3 screws and push the white cover back on.

Position the icemaker so you can reconnect the wireharness plug connectors. Once connected you can push the icemaker asembly back into the grooves of shelf rail. Reattach the while protector shield which covers up the wire harness plugs.

Open the refirigerator door and push and hold the power button to turn internal power back on. Move the icemaker switch on the right wall of the freezer to the "on" position and close the door.

The icemaker should start making ice within 2 hours.

Originally I took the module off and found that a small plastic part had broken. Both pieces were still there, so I super glued them together and reassembled the unit. It worked great for a couple months. I realized it needed a more permanent fix, so I found the model # and looked up the part. That was very easy on your website. I ordered the part expecting it to take 4-7 days. It was at my house in two days! 15 minutes later I was makin' ice, and makin' my wife happy. Thank you for an all around great experience. I'll definitely buy from you again.

Unpluged fridge, removed 3 screws from each control board (1 on left side and 1 on right side in freezer below ice maker compartment, unplugged and swopped out with new ones. Did one side then the other. Learned about the issue from other people on PartsSelect. Coulden't have been easier. Got parts in 2 days. Works like a charm now.