Freezer Temp was -20 to -30 degrees F. and did not defrost because of the extreme low temperatures.
The Video on U tube was helpful. I have a side by side model and it was difficult to work in such tight quarters to attach the new part . I found that by removing the cable assembly it was much easier to attach (cut and crimp) the new part on the outside , then reinsert the assembly. The new part resolved my problem. Don't panic when you try and remove the cable assembly. Hope this is helpful.
Plastic side-rail cracked. Shelf could no longer support weight on top or in the drawer beneath.
(1) Remove the drawer by pulling it open until it catches. Push up gently on the bottom-rear of the drawer to lift it over the stop tabs in the drawer rail, and pull the drawer out completely. Note: You will need to push the refrigerator door gently to the fully open position to remove the drawer all the way. The door will open about 30 degrees further than where it comes to rest on its own when opened. (2) Remove the shelf by lifting gently on the front and sliding it forward. Once the rear corners of the shelf are beyond the upper lip of the shelf rail, you can lift the shelf out of the rail, and turn it vertical to remove through the fridge door. Note: the glass in the shelf is meant to stay in, but if its old or damaged it may tip out when you turn the shelf on its side. So you may want to tape it in place before removing the shelf. (3) Install the new shelf by repeating step 2 in reverse. (4) Reinstall the drawer by repeating step 1 in reverse.
Refrigerator door on a side by side unit would not stay closed.
First empty the shelves on the refrig. door. Then removed the upper hing cover and removed the three screws holding the hinge to the body of the refrigerator. Lifted the door off the bottom hinge and placed it clear of the unit. Inspected the bottom hinge and cleaned off the screw holding the closing cam, then with a nutdriver removed the screw holding the cam and removed the cam from the hinge. Installed a new cam closer, secured the cam with a screw. Hanged the door back on the lower hinge and re-installed the upper hinge. Job Complete!
inserted a knife between the switch and the plastic interior in order to pop the switch out. then took off the 2 wires on the old switch put them on the new switch and reinserted the switch into the plastic interior.
I pulled the wiring harness off the bad motor, removed the fan blades (it was just a press fit and can be pulled off by hand), took out the three screws. The fan on the replacement motor had to be installed out of the fridge. I wiggled the new motor into place and installed the three screws. I cut the wiring harness off the fridge side and cut back the insulation. Using wire nuts I reconnected the wiring. I plugged the fridge back in and it worked like a champ. The repair went fairly easy. The motor was a bit difficult to get into tight space with my big hands. The wiring harness on the fridge side had to be cut and wire nuts used to reconnect the wiring to the new motor but it was pretty straight forward. Over all the repair was easy except for being in a tight spot. I recommend trying to fix it yourself, you may supprise yourself and save some serious bucks on labor cost to boot.
Purchased the closing cam (both pieces). Removed door (3 bolts under the dust shield on top of door) and replaced the plastic cam pieces. So easy a caveman could do it. I actually had my 13 year old son do it while I supervised!
It was straight forward enough--removed six screws from the metal cooling coil shield at the back of the freezer compartment and removed the shield. That left the motor and its mounting exposed atop the coil. Removed the electrical leads and popped out the motor and fan. Then I replaced the leads on the new motor, reset it in the mounting and pushed the fan propeller from the old motor on the spindle of the new. Twenty minutes tops.
One front roller was flat on one side. Decided to replace all rollers at same time. Placed shims under unit and removed mounting screws for one front and one rear roller. With new rollers in place, I was able to level the refrigerator side to side, but unable to do so, front to back. Left the new front roller in place and reinstalled the old rear roller. Have decided to replace refrigeratorin the near future. This is one of my few repair failures!
Refrigrator door made loud pop when opening and closing.
Simply remove the cover over top hinge and remove the three outer screws (Do NOT remove the center screw). Lift the door off the lower pivot pin. Turn door upside down and replace the upper cam and then the lower cam on the pivot at the bottom of the refrigerator case. Reintall the door by setting the door on the lower pivot and then reinstall the top pivot and cover. VERY easy and what a difference. No more "POP".