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PartSelect Number PS884734
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
Removed the ice brucket,Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.
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To repair the light socket which was not functioning, I identified and followed the instructions on part-select on you tube. I unplugged the refrigerator, cleared away and removed the shelf below the housing for the light. I reached up under the plastic light protector with a screwdriver and popped up the tab on the front holding it in place. Then I easily pulled out the defective socket. I reversed the process and popped the new one in to replace the old, screwed in the light bulb, put the shelf back, plugged the fridge in and was finished. This took only about 5-10 minutes. To repair, and replace the dual inlet-water valve, I pulled the refrigerator out and removed all the nuts protecting the back at the bottom. I unplugged the fridge and turned the water switch at the wall to off. I once again had identified the problem by the symptoms on part-select, ordered the part and watched and followed the repair on part-select on you-tube. There are a variety of nuts and bolts to remove the protective housing and then get to the water inlet valve unit at the back left bottom side. It doesn't take long. I unplugged the two electrical lines holding the water inlet valve in place, I unscrewed the bolt in the center on top and the two valves underneath that are the three water lines from the water in the refrigerator back to the unit and on to the ice maker. I replaced the unit as instructed and started to reconnect the hoses. At that time, I noticed that the hose from the unit to the ice maker was a little brittle at the end. So, I suggest you check all your hoses as well when you identify the same problem. I decided it would be best to replace the hose as well and ordered the ice water hose from part select. I left the water off and put the fridge back. The ice maker hose replacement came quickly, in 2 days. Then I simply pulkled it out and replaced that ice water line in about a minute, reversed putting back the rest of he screws that hols everything in place, closed up the unit, plugged the fridge in, turned on the water valve at the wall and put the refrigerator back in to place. This process, if uninterrupted, would take about 30 -45 minutes. Everything is working good as new now. I probably saved myself at least 150 dollars, had the satisfaction of fixing it and learned something myself about how the whole thing functions. Part select is a find!
Removed the old ignighter by removing 2 screws. Romoved wire shield from the back of the oven, 1 screw. Cut wires close to the base of the ignighter. Stripped the wires and twisted together with wires on the new ignighter and secured with the wirenuts that came with the install kit. Pushed the excess wire and wirenuts into the hole in back of the oven and replaced the shield. Replaced the screws mounting the ignighter to the burner.
Very easy. 1. Turn off power to oven. 2 move the adjustable grills out to gain better access. 3. There are two phillips head screws that hold a bracket to the back of the inside oven. Unscrew both screws. 4 pull the bake element out about 6". This exposes the two electrical connections. 5. Use a plier and wiggle the slide on connector off of the old bake element. 6. With your fingers, slip the old connectors onto the new bake element. 7. Slide the element and wires back in the insulated pocket. 8. Screw both screws back in. 9. Turn on power and make your wife back you chocolate chip cookies just to "test". Sit in an easy chair and enjoy your cookies. If this took longer than 30 minutes inclding baking the cookies, it took you too long. If the cookies are not good, replace the wife. May take a little loger though :)
I didn't. Don't know how to get to light bulb to change it for this specific model
being a side by side unit, removed back cover in freezer section, allowed built up ice to melt off, exposing evaporater coils and deforst heaters, removed screws holding upper and lower heater and remove thermostat cliped to coil, unplugged wire connector and reversed insulation of unit. it was vary easy and only tools used was a 1/4 inch nut driver and phillipshead screw driver.
I removed the cover over the light and disconnected the wires and replaced the socket.
My Maytag DE710 dryer (very old) had a very loud rumbling noise (loud to the point that I could hear it loud throughout the entire house) constantly during operation and when shutting off. I purchased the parts that I thought would correct the problem (drum roller support kit, roller shaft, tumbler belt.) I installed these parts but unfortunately it did not correct the problem. These parts did show some wear so I didn't mind having to replace them. After further investigation, I noticed that the blower wheel clamp had fallen off into the vent tray. I inspected the blower wheel and found that it had worn the inside passage where the shaft fits through to a round shape (should have a partial flat edge to hold securely on the shaft.) The wheel also had a lot of excess movement in it that allowed it to slide back and forth on the shaft. These 2 issues are what was causing the rumbling noises; although I wouldn't have thought so originally because the wheel is plastic. Before beginning, I was sure it was the drum rollers. Anyway, after replacing the roller wheel with a new one, the problem is 100% eliminated. The dryer runs whisper quiet, a pleasant change from the loud rumbling. The replacement was fairly simple overall after watching the help videos on the website. I expect to get a lot more years out of this dryer, despite it being very old already.
took out old one and after straightening out the significant bends in the metal frame holding the screen, that were caused by shipping the screen in too flimsy of a container, I installed this into the range.
Started investigating by pulling out the igniter glow coil. Looked mostly white and not dark metal like it should. Ordered the part online. Came in two days. Popped the new one in and the oven started right up within 15 seconds.
removed the old one went to plug in the new one but plug wasnt the same so i cut the old plug off and attched it to the new igniter with the wire nuts sent with the part and it works like new.
We turned off the stove at the breaker panel. Took off the front top panel of stove and replaced the replacement board. It had three attachments to plug in. We then replaced front panel and turned on the breaker. The stove worked perfectly. It is very nice to have a clock and temperature reading visable again. Part Select was very easy to order from and we received our part within a couple of days. Will certainly suggest them to friends and will use them again.
Took the oven door off first. Then four screws to remove the old burner. I did have to oil two of the screws so I could loosen them.
First I removed the two screws that hold the element in place. I then pulled the element out about 3 inches and was about to disconnect the two wires. It was a bit hard to pull out the wires by hand, but I got some WD-40 and pliers and it was easy. Hooked up and replaced and voila. It was done. Saved me a new $1,500 stove. I wish I knew that the lamp only needed to be unscrewed and not the whole unit replaced.
Removed the old element by removing 2 screws and disconnecting two solderless connectors. One solderless connector was melted in two. I had to remove the rear panel and cut the old connector off and crimped on a new solderless connector. The time required was lengthened due to trip to the hardware store to get a new connector. While I was fixing the oven element my wife replaced the oven light.
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