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PartSelect Number PS470317
The upper drum glide is attached to the front panel of your dryer, you can locate it by removing the top portion of your dryer. The drum glide allows the drum to rotate with ease and little sound. The front upper felt glide pad with three nylon glides also includes adhesive, essential for mounting accurately. For this project you will need a putty knife, Phillips screwdriver, and a wire brush. This repair is meant to fix issues such as an abnormal amount of noise or the dryer not tumbling as it should. Consider replacing your belt at the same time if you have a dryer more than 5 years old, as it is likely worn.
This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The front lower drum seal is used in the assembly of dryers. This seal helps keep your appliance running quietly. It allows the drum to smoothly rotate on the front panel. If you notice brown marks on your clothing, if the dry cycle is taking long, or if there are unusually loud noises, the seal might be worn down. If that is the case, you will need to replace the seal. This replacement part is made out of felt. The high temperature adhesive required to install this seal is sold separately. Before you begin any repair work, make sure the appliance has been unplugged.
after 6 years of use, these parts needed to be replaced. I was reffered to ur website by a friend, and I am glad I purchase the parts @ the right place. Helpfull and fast responses.Thank you!
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Washer & dryer are stacked so I had to remove 2 screws connecting dryer to washer and lower dryer to floor. Used scraper blade to release the lid, removed 2 screws and disconnected wire harness to remove front panel. Used chisel to remove seals and "Goof-Off" to dissolve glue residue - it worked great! Carefully cleaned surface, applied glue to seals and clamped to panel. While waiting for glue to set, I removed the drum to replace the bearing assembly (which was in pretty good shape) and vacuumed out the dryer which had a heavy coating of lint (it hadn't been serviced in 10 years). Put everything back together only to find that something was clanging around when the dryer operated (fortunately, I ran the dryer before reinstalling it). Removed the vanes (by removing screw from outside the drum) and found several coins that were causing the problem. All in all, it was a fairly easy project, though using an effective glue solvent, such as Goof-Off was the key to an easy project.
I removed the top lid, then removed the front panel, to expose top and bottom drum glides attached to panel, then using a carpenter shisel, and cutting knive scraped away the old worn out glides, wiped clean with acetone the area were the new glides were being cemented. all of this thanks to couple of customers that had the same issues on their dryer, and documented step by step their own way to have this done, I just followed thru their experiences.
replaced upper drum gasket(felt) hardest part was removing old gasket(felt) used a wire wheel on a cordless drill and the material came right off job was very easy to complete and got great service from parts select
After pulling out and unplugging my machine I followed the procedure already worked out by others. I bought and replaced all the parts that were listed as involved with this problem, since I only wanted to do this once and the parts were pretty cheap. The only slightly hard part was reconnecting the drum to the bearing, this could be easier with a third hand.Everything went well and the dryer works fine.
Followed the instructions in the video. It was very helpful.
Found the promblem as described at this site while looking for diagrams for the dyer. Repair went as described. Once I removed the old upper drum glide I used acetone to remove old glue. Cleaned up fast and easy. Once installed I let cure for about an hour and then reassembled. Let it cure for about an hour more and then I used the dyer. I could feel that the gap around the front of the drum was again narrow so that my finger tip would not slide into a grove. So far so good.
I followed the video example which very clearly showed how to do the repair. Much easier than I had expected.
Watched two videos...totally easy. Might have been able to stumble my way through it in 3 times the time. Watched the video and entire fix took about 45 minutes...awesome.
Opened up the dryer, scrapped off the old glide and seal. Applied adhesive as instructed. Glued on new seal and glide and reassembled dryer.
I followed the directions from your video, which was a great help. The only difficulty I had was getting the belt in the tension pulley - you can not see what you are doing and the spring is strong - but I got it. Thanks
repaired as described in your instructional video.The video repair part of your website is just great.Seeing it done vs tring to understand someone else describe it makes it that much easier. I will use you for all future repairs.
I ordered parts, recieved in 2 days. came with upper glide, glue and instructions. instructions were easy to read and follow. I used the wood chisel to remove old felt, cleaned well with some solvent, reap[plied glue, wait a few minutes , apply felt - reassemble dryer - viola- done. very satisfied customer
unplugged the dryer and "popped" the top with a screwdriver. Removed two phillips head screws located towards the top of the drum that hold the front panel in place.Unplug the two wires that attach to the front door switch. Removed the panel. In the center of the drum are three screws that mount it to the rear bearing assy. Thats the part that led to the breakdown of the front seal and guide blocks witch allowed lint to escape into the cabinet. Removed the screws then in the back of the dryer there is a small grill that allows air flow. If you take that off, there is the motor and belt tensioner.. My belt had been ruined so I just slid the drum out the front. Normally you would have to release the belt from the tension pulley and motor first. After sliding the drum out, you see the rear bearing assembly. Behind the flange, there are two screws that have to be removed to get the bearing assy out. Here is the tricky part. The two screws mount into a small plate that is on the back of the dryer. There is a tang in the center of that plate that holds a little steel ball that applies some tension to the bearing to help hold it in the correct position without making it to rigid to move around naturally. when you go to install the new bearing, tape that plate to the back of the dryer to hold it in place while you set the new bearing in place. unless you have someone to hold it, you will drop the ball and you will have to start over again. Using the grease provided grease the socket of the bearing and istall the ball of the flange into it. then take the little ball I described and apply grease to it and stick it to the backside of the bearing socket where you will see a hole drilled out. that ball sits in that hole and rests against the tang of the plate that I spoke of. after that the rest is easy. Remove the top felt piece with the teflon (white ) platwes from the top of the door assy. where the drum rides on. I used a wire brush to clean off the residue of dried glue. use some small pinch clamps or clothes pins to hold the new felt in place. Spread the glue provided onto the now clean surface and wait till it gets tacky ( afew minutes) then lay felt onto it evenly. then use the clamps to hold the felt while it dries. While thats drying, place the new belt over the ring at the back of the dryer. slide the drum in and as you do, pull the belt over the drum and just let it hang there. line up and istall the three screws to hold the drum to the rear bearing flange. then go to the back of the dryer and loop the belt around the motor shaft you will notice that the idler pulley on the tensioner slids right off towards you. Thats so you can get the belt on easier. Slide the pulley off and plce it agaist the belt, pull the tensioner to the right and when you have enough slack, push the idler onto the tensioner shaft. It sounds harder than it is it's really a lot easier when you see it. once the belt is installed remove the clamps from the new felt and install the front panel . place it in at the bottom first taking care to line it up in the grooves then push it into place. there are a couple of alignment clips that will help. Put the two screws in place, plug the switch wires back in, and lower the top. you are done. the only part i left out was to make sure you vacuum the whole thing out while you have it apart. especially where the lint trap is. there is usually a large buildup in there. plug it in and give it a test run.
The online descriptions were very helpful. I used a wooden kitchen fork to pry open the top of the dryer from the front, about 3 inches in from each side. Two metal springs hold the lid. The wire harness was on the right and two disconnects were easy to separate. Remember to disconnect power before you start. On the inside on the left and right sides are two screws which hold the front on. Remove these screws and the front panel will lean forward. Remember to support the drum as you pull the front off. Remove both top and bottom felt seals. I used a putty knife to aid in the removal of seals. Scrap the residue with the putty knife to remove. Run a bead of glue all around and let set for two minutes. Place top drum guide on first, and center on top. Put lower felt seal on next and tie a rope all around on top of felt, to hold in place while glue dries. Let dry for 30 minutes and remove the rope. Reassembly dryer. Test on low heat. It really is easy to do. Celebrate.
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