Rotary Start Switch

Used a screw driver and needle nose pliers to remove clip from behind the timer knob. Took 2 minutes to remove clip, i admit it was a little tricky but once you get a grip on the clip very easily removed. Replaced with new knob, old knob gear was completley stripped . put the new clip on and presto, Like brand new.A normal service call would of ran me 45.00 just to tell me what was wrong with the machine.

Just removed the screws at the top of the control panel cover and flipped it down. The switch was then in plain view and simply slid out ( after taking off knob)..placed wire terminals on new switch as I took them off old switch. Slid new switch back in place to lock it in then put control panel cover back into place and replaced screws. Your good to go.

I took apart the top of the dryer and removed the switch and replaced it with the new one. I also removed the knobs and replaced them. Easy

Unscrewed three screws on back and removed the switch and inserted the new one. There are 3 wires that clamp on the switch. Remember to unplug before doing this.

Real easy and great people to work with. Much cheaper than a technician repair.

Jim

First I figured out it was the start switch, I heard it make an electrical zap noise when I turned it and then the dryer didn't start. Once I had the part I simply removed the back from the dryer with a screwdriver (5 phillips head screws and 1 flat head). Then I twisted the old switch and it popped right out. Then I unhooked the wires and rehooked them to the new switch. Then I twisted the new switch into place, tested the dryer - IT WORKED! After that I just replaced the back cover and I was done. It was so quick! I am a 25 year old single mother with a 21 month and 4 month old. If I can do it on my own anyone can!

Unplug. Remove 3 knobs at front of panel. Remove 4 screws. Panel pulls forward. Remove green grounding wire to allow panel to come forward more. Pry up locking tab on switch. Turn switch to unlock from panel. Install new switch in reverse order of removal. Pull off each wire one at a time from old switch and attach to new switch. Reinstall panel and insert 4 screws. Done. My wife was so suprised that it actually worked and I fixed it in less than a day! Only took about 20 minutes. Thanks Part Select and the other repair stories that I read on your website.

Repair was simple. Initially thought the problem was the Water Level pressure swith, but since water overflow was only happening when selecting cold wash & during the rinse cycle (Always cold water) the Dual Valve Selenoid replacement FIXED the problem. Took 5 minutes to replace.

opened up the control cover, pulled off the 3 wires to the switch. unclipped the swutch from the panel and reinstalled the new exact replacemnt sww you sent

Unplugged dryer. Removed knobs and display panel. Removed bad start switch. This was a bit tricky for a novice. Had to do a bit of twisting. Once the new part was installed, I screwed in the display panel. The dryer worked, but I discovered that the part wasn't securely in place. It took three tries before I finally figured out how to secure the part. Now, everytime I start my dryer, I sing "I am Woman, Hear me Roar!" Woo Hoo!!! Sounds like a little thing to all you Do-It-Yourselfers out there, but to me, this really empowered me. Hmmm, what's next? Maybe the edge of the garage door??? See Ya!

Use snub nose plier took less than fifteen minutes.

The part came today…and I installed it in 10 minutes. The only time consuming part was locating a torx screwdriver which was needed to remove the panel.
Lifted the panel, extracted the existing switch and
disconnected the wires and used a flathhead screwdriver to lift off the existing switch. Reconnected the new piece, and voila my dryer worked!
Your site is great!

It's no surprise that GE would use cheaply made parts in such a mass produced product, but it was irritating to see the start switch fail just fourteen months after purchasing the dryer. I am glad that a little thought was put into an easy snap and twist installation of the control panel switches. The original switch failed, due to arcing and pitting of the contact points no doubt, and the local parts house didn't even recognize the part, let alone have it in stock. Thanks to PartSelect.com I could have the part in just a couple of days!
The panel comes appart with just four star driver screws on top, but an allen wrench will work also. Wire jumpers with spade connectors are pulled apart and reattached with needle nose pliers.
In the mean time to keep the dryer operational, I did some creative "re-assigning" of some of the control panel jumper wires using the switch that controled the "Wrinkle Care" setting as a temporary Start Switch as it had the same current handling limits. By the way before attempting such a temporary bypass setup, consider not voiding any warrantee arrangement still applying to the product and have some basic electronics and safety knowledge, study the provided schematic well attached to the back panel and remember to write down all of the original wire connections. And when in doubt, calling a qualified GE appliance repair person is your best and safest bet.
New part went right in in about 15 minutes with original wiring restored and double-checked and the dryer is running right on que again.
Thanks PartSelect.com!

Removed the 6 screws that held the top panel in place. there are only 3 wires, 2 that go together and 1 single wire.Uplug the dryer,twist out the old switch,twist in the new one, attatch the wires,replace the panel,BAM your done.And the best part of it all the part was right the first time.they make it so easy to get the right part the first time!

I narrowed the porblem down to the rotary start switch, which is located in the top panel. It takes a hex wrench to remove the four screws holding the fron top panel in place and of course the knobs had to be removed. The switch rotates about a wuarter of a turn to come out. Label and remove the three connectors (3). It took about a week to get the replacement part which was slightly different than the original part. The good thing is it had the three prongs like the old part.. I hooked the connectors in the same configuration as the old switch, plugged the power cord back in to test and it started right up.

REMOVE TOP CONTROL PANEL, DISCONNECTED WIRE FROM OLD SWITCH TO NEW SWITCH (REMOVER 1 WIRE AT TIME SO IT WOULD NOT GET MIXED UP)TWISTED OLD SWITCH OUT INSERTED NEW SWITCH AND REPLACED CONTROL PANEL NOW WORKS LIKE IT SHOULD. I THOUGHT IT MIGHT WOULD BE A SAFETY ISSUE IS WHY I REPLACED IT