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PartSelect Number PS334646
This part could have either a blue colored valve body or a green colored valve body. There are two ports for water to enter and this valve is compatible with a half inch ID hose. It has two 3/4-11x1/2 NHT hose threads.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The hardest part was removing the machine's cabinet. 2 screws on either end of the control panel, tip the control panel back out of the way and remove 2 clips, then slide the cabinet off the front. Replacing the valve was very easy. I didn't need the mounting plate that came with it. At first it looked like the screw hole wasn't going to line up with the hole in the back of the machine, but then I noticed that the valve had a groove that allowed it to slide downward on to the back. Pretty easy overall.
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Removed two screws holding top control section on, and folded back the control panel. Removed two clips holding cabinet on, tipped cabinet toward me and off. Removed and replaced water valve, being careful to mark hot/cold hoses, and secure the internal hose to the valve with the spring clamp. Most difficult part was lining back up the cabinet when putting it back on the base, but a few minutes to line up tabs and get the front of the cabinet UNDER the front groove in the base got it secure. Works fine now.
Initially, we thought the problem was in the water inlet valve and we changed it out. It went OK although the Kenmore almost fell apart after the removal of a few screws and the control unit. Only thing was that it was unncessary. The real problem was not in the cold water turn on valve, but in the hose. The hose was special in that it was designed to shut off under emergency conditions. It appeared to be able to passs water when tested at my sink, but when connected to the washing machine and under presssure, it would not pass water. I had installed the part by this time so I left it there. I found the Kenmore washing machine rather flimsy in it's construction and tended to totally come apart once a few screws were removed.
I had to call in to find the correct part because the online recommended part looked very different, and the one found using the model number had no photo, so I was VERY leary of ordering. The service rep said that Kenmore products did not always show up correctly and he gave me the part number needed and there was a photo. The part was not exactly the same, but looked very similar and it was more than 50% less than the original recommended part and part with no photo. I thought that the problem finding Kenmore parts was odd since Kenmore is like number one, right? Part took 3 days to arrive, which I thought was great. Turned off power and water. Removed water hoses. Removed three screws from the back of the top (front loader). Removed the top. Removed a screw holding on the water inlet valve from the outside of the unit through the back cover which required a star driver. Unattached the 4 electrical leads. Unattached the outlet water hose (held on with a squeeze type metal clamp -not sure of the exact name for these). The problem that I had was that the water outlet hose bib attachment was slightly larger than the old one, so the hose would go back on, but the clamp was too small so I cusses a lot before figuring out the problem. I had to go and purchase a new larger clamp. After that, I simply attached the electrical connections and put the outlet back on. One other small problem was that the place where the screw through the back cover was originally attached no longer lined up with the new valve. The plastic piece was shorter than the old one so the screw hole did not line up with the hole in the back panel. The screw isn't really necessary. Overall, replacing the part was easy and I was pleased with the process.
unscrewed the back removd thr two screws for the element unhooked the hose to machiine unpluged the electric to element and than replaced new element and plugged electric to element and hooked back the hose and replaced screws too the back and replaced back an screws titled wash machine up hooked hoses for the water and plugged electric and put drain hose back to drain done
This should have been done under 30 minutes but when you don't have a repair manual, you have to do some guessing. I have to remove the back panel. On only thing that was hard was unspringing the two flat springs. After I got the panel off, the rest was easy and the dripping stopped. Oh, there is a screen where the hose connects to the inlet valve. If you can clean the screen often, you can continue to get a good water flow.
Removed two clips on back panel holding control panel.Removed end plates on control panel. removed two front screws holding control panel. removed wiring harnesses noting location. Set control panel aside. Removed two large clips holding rear panel to washer cabinet. Pulled washer cabinet from the front away from the rear panel and tube. Removed two screws holding water inlet valve. Removed water inlet hose from inlet valve using channel lock pliers. Installed new water inlet valve using supplied mounting bracket. Reassembled washer in reverse order.
Simple repair. Unplugged power cord, turned off water spigots. Removed the two screws under the control panel and rotated it up and back out of the way. Popped the two retaining clips (that's much easier now that I know to simply stick a large screwdriver straight down vertically into the front portion of the clip and lean the screwdriver back, rather than try to pry the clip out by levering under it against the washer top) holding the main body panel to the front of the washer and tilted it forward but not all the way off. That allowed plenty of room to get at the back panel where the valve assembly is. There is some sort of plastic tray over the top of the valves that's kinda in the way so I popped it out by squeezing its plastic retaining barb with needle nose pliers and forcing it back thru the metal panel. Two screws hold the valve assembly on, and of course the water supply hoses are on one side and the fill hoses on the other. Removed and placed them on the new valve in orderThe replacement part comes with a mounting plate and is not an exact duplicate. I screwed the assembly to the plate, but the holes in the plate don't line up perfectly enough to allow a second screw to be used. I could have drilled in a new one if I was willing to move the washer even farther out but a single screw holds it plenty well enough for me. Be sure to attach the correct electrical connectors and water lines to the new valves.Reassemble in reverse order BUT TAKE CARE NOT TO PINCH THE CLEAR PLASTIC TUBE that runs from the water level switch down behind the control panel when you rotate the control panel back into position. I watched my washer fill almost to overflowing before realizing something was wrong. After 2-3 unsuccessful examinations I finally realized the tube was caught between two panels of metal and the controls were not recieving the "I'm full" signal from the wash tub. That would have been a mess if I hadn't watched a wash cycle to double-check my work.My washer sounds brand new and fills faster. $30 shipped and an hour of work.
Turn off water, unplug machineDisconnect water lines to the valveUnscrewed the clear plastic tabs on the top of the machine, then pryed the back away from the top white part.Two gold clips can be popped out with a long flat head screw driver.Pulled the back away from the machine enough to disconnect the wires from the valve. Unscrew the screw(s) from the valves.Old valves out, new valves in. Plug in the wires, screw in the screws.Then, to get the gold tabs back in place.....i called NASA.just kidding. They're tough!I slipped one into the back and held it in place with my thumb. Then I lined the piece up with the slot inside the machine. Then, i pryed the top white part away as I pushed them together. Stuck a long handle screwdriver down in and pushed REALLY hard on the gold tab to get it to snap into place. Everything is really tight, so you might have to try it a few times.....i left some blood behind.repeat for the other side, snap in the clear tabs, hook up the water lines, plugged it in......Then I sat back and listened to my wife praise me for fixing her machine!
I just followed the instructions found on this website. It covered everything you need to know. I have just one thing to add though. Look over everything first and formulate a game plan. Keep all screws etc. and put them in a plastic bag so you don't lose them. You might try using a heavy hammer to force the clips holding the back panel to the top of the machine back in place. One more thing; use a piece of wood to set the back panel on while you replace the intake valve.
The valve was easy to change, but we as homeowners should change the hot and cold hoses just like they say you should every 5 years. The hoses grew to the water valve and it was almost a disaster. After cutting the end with a dremmel and clamping visegrips on it I finally got it loose. After that it went smooth. Thanks for getting me the part so fast.
Your video was helpful. I just followed the directions, replaced the valve, put it back together and celebrated spending $28 instead of the $100 deductible on my home warranty. If you're sure of the part you need, just do it.
The repair went great. The video shown on the partselect site saved me a huge amount of time disassembling the cabinet to access the malfunctioning part. The most difficult part of the repair was replacing the cabinet on the unit after the part swap and getting it straight. Luckily 2 attempts was enough. I recommend trying this repair yourself and saving a bunch of $$.
Just took screws on top panel holding the gauges pop the spring like braces holding the body of machine to back panel removed water valve one screw unhooked wireing than replaced new valve in reverse order.
It is sometimes tricky to figure out which screws and panels to remove to get to the parts you want to fix. Older Whirlpools used to have a lift up top that would allow access. This one required the back to come off (or at least partially off).First, pull out the washer for access. Turn off water to the machine, and unplug the electrical cord. Remove the drain hose using a large pliers to pinch the clamp and then pull the hose off. Remove water lines at the back of washer, again with a large pliers (if needed). Remove two screws at the bottom of back panel. Remove two screws at the top corners of back panel that hold some sort of plastic hinge piece to the control housing. Remove two screws on either end of the bottom front of the control housing on top of the machine. The back can now be lifted free (with some effort) from the sheet metal tabs that hold the bottom of the back in place. Reach in the bottom side with the pliers and disconnect the large drain line clamp so you have more room to swing the back out. There also might be a little plastic thingy to twist out of a slot in the back (maybe a vibration damper?) You will see the water inlet valve just inside the back on the side. The inlet hose connections are actually a part of the inlet valve. It is now possible to reach in from the side and disconnect the small water feed line from the inlet valve with a pliers, and disconnect the electrical plugs from the valve. Remove the two screws holding the valve to the back and remove the valve.Reassembly is actually easier than removal. Don't forget to replace the water hose washers or they will probably leak. If the hoses look bad, just buy a new set. They can be had quite cheap.Good luck and prepare to be proud of how well your "new" washer now works and how much money you saved!p.s. PartSelect Rocks!
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