Adaptive Defrost Board

We set up the lap top and used the video to guide us through the installation. We had some difficulty when we discovered during a previous repair that someone had used a larger size screw that would not pass through the keyhole. Without the video we would of dismanteled much more than needed. The technician on the video expalined each step perfectly and we had a successful install.

THIS IS THE 3RD TIME I HAVE REPLACED THE ADAPTIVE DEFROST
CONTROL,WHAT A PAIN,WILL NEVER PURCHASE A MAYTAG PRODUCT AGAIN.
ALSO REPLACED UNDER WARRANTY MAIN CONTROL BOARD AND ICE AUGER.
ITS JUNK.

the vidio was great, made the replacement easy.

followed video, took about 20 minutes, no more noise, so far so good.

For the timer, I watched the handy instruction video on the website that was provided. Very easy to follow along.

For the assembly, i tried to click on the instructions but nothing popped up, so i went online and searched for a video on youtube.com which helped.

Very easy and convinent.

Just switch the part.

I recommend watching the online repair video to have an idea of how to do this repair and unplug the power before starting.
First I removed the bottom plastic cover. Removing this cover is probably the hardest part of the repair and requires a little bit of dexterity. Then remove the temperature setting dial using the nut driver. Then remove the two screws at the back right that hold the timer in place. Remove the two screws at the back of the unit by the water filter with the nut driver and then loosen the two top screws located by the light bulbs with the phillips screwdriver. At this point the plate and temperature control unit will slide to the right and drop down giving you access to the timer. The timer is located at the back right hand side and is easily unplugged and replaced with the replacment timer. Just reverse the removal process to put it back together.

it was easy by reading the post on your site.took off light cover by pushing in on tabs as pulling forward on cover,un screw the nuts and screws the defrost timer was in left top corner as described by eveyone else. installed new defrost timer and reassembled. works perfect!!!!! thanks

Replaced the Adaptive Defrost Timer circuit card. Figured out how to do it myself without too much trouble, but it would have been easier if I had checked the instruction video on the PartSelect.com web site first, however I didn't notice it until I went there to order the replacement part. I ordered the part late Thursday and received it Saturday morning.

First off, I am a woman, who did her research, and found that my problem could be fixed by one of two things. Since I heard the refrigerator making a strange noise in the top of the fridge side, I concluded that it was the Adaptive Defrost Timer which had gone bad. I watched the video on how to replace the part, and decided to go ahead and order it (it had already been replaced approx. 4 yrs ago while under warranty). The package came within 2 days - WOW! So, I unplugged, took out the interior roof of the fridge, unhooked the part, plugged in the new part and screwed it all back together. A really easy, inexpensive fix, and it now is cold in the fridge side. Thanks so much for posting the installation video - took all the guesswork out of it. Again, I am a woman, and I did the repair in about 30 minutes!

Looked up model number online. Ordered part from Part Select.com. Removed 5 screws from top of inside of fridge. Removed old Adaptive Defrost Timer. Plugged new part in and reinstalled the other parts. Local appliance company quoted me $250.00 to repair my fridge. I had less than $70.00 bucks in doing the repair myself.

For issue #1 - Water dispenser pad getting stuck:
Removed 2 screws at bottom. Next there I removed 3 more screws and connector to the LED control board. After that that the assembly loosened enough to pop out the actuator pad. I put in a new one, and reconnected the LED board, replaced the screws. Total job took 20 mins.

For issue #2 - Fridge stopped cooling:
Removed about 5 screws that held the temp control assembly in place at inside top of fridge. The old ADT board was screwed in, so I removed the screws, disconnected the wiring harness. I then reconnected and snapped in the new ADT board and re-connected the temp control assembly. Total time 1 hour. This did not fix the problem in itself. After reading blogs, I found that my freezer coils needed to be defrosted. There was tons of ice build up, even started forming on the outside of the cover. I scraped off the ice from cover, removed cover and started blasting the ice with a hair dryer. I placed towels at bottom to avoid water leaking out. It took about 1/2 hour to melt it all away and ensure that exposed wiriing was dry. I replaced the cover and turned on the fridge. This, along with the new ADT did the trick. Total time for entire job was about 2 hours. This earned me lots of points with the wife :)

NOTE: Do not forget to disconnect the fridge from power for this type of job and make sure hair dryer and you do not come in contact with the melting water!

removed top panelwith three srews and disconnected wire horness brought down complete panel and replaced adaptive defrost timer,I learn this going on magtag web site on trouble shooting chart

In refrigerator comparment removed control cover. Simply pull it forward and it drops down. Remove four screws holding controls to inside top of refrigerator. Remove two screws holding circuit board unit (adaptive defrost timer). Unplug electrical connector and removed the part. Put new part in by removing top cover and part so the electrical plug could be installed easier. Install top part cover and screwes back into contols panel. Reinstall tyhe control panel and cover.

After emptying refrigerator section, removed plastic housing of temperature controls at top of refrig section. Broke one of plastic restraints as I couldn't see how housing had to be slide forward first. removal of house reveals another plastic housing which contain the Adaptive Defrost Controller (ADC).

Removed three screws: two in front and one in rear of plastic housing, allowing housing to swing down from some wiring and ductwork in rear left corner. ADC was in rear right corner. Unplugged old ADC, plugged in new one [recommend you unplug refrigerator first unless you like some sparks!] and reversed process to re-install all housings. Defrosted coils in freezer section. Refrigerator now seems to be working fine.