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PartSelect Number PS1964648
This part replaces two terminal switches in a dryer and prevents the dryer from running when the door is open. This includes two connectors. If your dryer will not shut off, start, or does not tumble, replacing the door switch can solve this appliance problem. The tools needed for replacement are a screw driver and wire strippers. Make sure to attach the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch, to do this you can check the resistance of the switch. Unplug the dryer before installing this part, also refer to the diagram provided by the manufacturer.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
FIRST unplug dryer from electrical source, CAUTION, the top of this dryer does not open with clips, do not pry on top to open! On the front of the dryer look under the lower panel, and find two screws, one on the left side, and one on the right, remove these screws, and pull slightly down on panel to remove. Behind this panel find two screws holding the door panel, one on the left, and one on the right, remove the left, and support the door panel while removing the right side. Gently pull the bottom of door panel outward, and the clips on top of door panel will unhinge from top, carefully rotate left side of door panel to floor, and note the wire connections on switch, and orientation of switch, then unplug wires, and move door panel to a comfortable working positon. Door must be open to remove switch, then depress the two plastic retaining keepers on each side of switch, and push switch through toward door. Replace with new switch, reconnect the wires, and reassymble in reverse order. Remember, door assymbly must be inserted in dryer top at an angle, and then bottom rotated downward, and bottom panel nylon guildes inserted into door panel bottom.
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After checking power to the outlet, I removed the back panel to remove the Control Panel. Testing the timer shoed I had nothing leaving the timer (Door was closed and I held the Push/Start button at the same time. Ordered and replace new timer - still didn't work. Teseted the door button and found it corroded. Tried cleaning contacts and got it to work for a split second. Ordered Door Switch and Push/Start Button -just in case. Replaced door switch - dryer works fine!
My 20 year old reliable Maytag 512 lgp dryer was not heating anymore. At first the heating element would glow red but not hot enough to ignite the gas. I replaced the element and it worked for a few loads but then stopped reigniting after the first cycle. After some research and diagnosis (checking connections, amperage flow on each electriical part, etc.) I determined that the two coils were faulty. I ordered parts and replaced them (easy to do) and it worked again, for another few loads. Then nothing worked. The coil did not get hot and I did not hear the clicking sound that initiates current flow to the ignitor through the coils. I checked the coils and ignitor again, they were fine. Frustrated, I called in a repairman to diagnose the problem. $55 and 15 min later he narrowed it down to the High Limit Thermostat. To demonstrate he bypassed the thermostat by directly connecting the two leads together and the ignitor fired right up.His price to replace the thermostat? $45 part plus $130 labor. I bought the thermostat online for less than half his parts cost and the labor took me 5 minutes. Simply unscrew the small screws with a small socket set or nutdriver and replace the thermostat. Just two connectors, real simple. All in all it was very easy to replace the parts, just tricky to diagnose unless you are good with electrical work.
Switch can be removed from outside of dryer and your video described the repair as having to work from inside dryer. But since wires were still attached to old switch, it could be popped out and wires switched. Since there were three wires on new switch to allow it to turn on and off a circuit, it was useful to check the resistance of the switch compressed or released to be certain I was attaching the two wires to the right two poles of the new switch. But that all required only a couple of minutes. Thank you.
first i checked the power supply then i checked each of the switches and limit fuses for continuity.to do that i had to take the front of the drier off, four screws there. then i removed the bad limit switch 2 screws,the door switch was bad so i replaced it, no screws. since i had the front off the drier i removed the four screws that held the drum in place and replaced the belt. assembled the drier in reverse order when the parts came. 1/2hour total labor.
Shut off or unplugged dryer for safety.Slipped thin blade putty knife up under bezel of switch to unlatch from the panel and pulled forward to remove the swwitch from the dryer. Unplugged the quick connect terminals (3) from the old switch and plugged them onto the new switch. one of the terminals had gotten quite hot and darkened the insulation so it was replaced with one that was supplied with the switch. that was a cut, strip, crimp process. Placed the new switch into the panel and snapped into place.
Door switch was very easy to replace as it simply snaps in for the outside and you just clip on the two control wires that already have clips on them.
remove bottom section under door 2 screws remove door 2 screws remove switch by squeezing tabs install 2 new female ends on wires supplied with switch . put switch back in plug in wires .
After taken apart to replace high limit thermostat fuse and limit thermostat took about 5 minutes. Also our dryer always ran very hot no matter what setting it was on. Replaced idler pulley wheel also because seemed not to rotate very well. Put all back together and worked perfect. Ran and does not overheat now.
Unscrewed front panel. Pulled off unbroken wire connecter and popped switch and put new one in. Replaced front panel.
Per instructions I printed off online: took off door, then the front panel. Pulled out the old switch/button, connected the new switch/button, made sure the new button was working; put the panel back on then the door and DONE!
Basically, your website helped us to make the repair. When I selected the belt, the tips from other customers made it very easy both to take the machine apart and put back together. Putting the belt on was much easier than either my wife or I thought it would be. I have told all my friends about your website. I think it is great. Thank you.
First: I read a lot of repair stories on PartSelect.com, as well as on other sites.Removed 2 screws and took off lower panel. I turned the drum by hand, and identified the left/rear roller to be the squeaking part. Removed the 2 screws that held the door panel, removed it, and enjoyed the fireworks!!!, because I had neglected to unplug the dryer first. The door switch was ruined, but I was thankful that no bodily injury or severe property damage happened.While I was shining the flashlight toward the back/underside of the dryer, my dear wife noticed light inside the drum.Ordered a new new door switch, roller axle, roller and rear felt cylnder seal...all arrived in 3 days.Decided to replace the front felt seal too, and bought it at a local shop, along with the adhesive, which I couldn't find at PartSelect.com for less than $32.Took the front drum panel, belt, drum and bulkhead panels off per advice at this site.Replaced switch, but had to crimp on a new spade connector (included with the switch).Cleaned off old felt seal adhesive with Goof-Off, and glued on the new seals.Replaced the real axle and wheel, with a little added lithium grease.Cleaned out the dirt in the dryer cabinet, and put everything back together with my wife's help and her keen common sense.The dryer is much quieter, and dries faster thanks to the new seals.The repair was straightforward, but I rated it "a bit difficult" because of the amount of taking-apart and rebuilding that I decided to do.
First - I did some research on line as to the possible problem with this dryer.I had already taken the front apart before, so I knew what was needed to remove the door and front.Remove the 2 screws that hold the dryer door in place with a Phillips screwdriver. Remove the two screws on the opposite side of the door also. Place the door out of the way. The front panel of the dryer now tilts forward. The front panel sits on two clips, tilt forward and lift out of place. The door switch has two prongs that hold it in place, pinch the prongs and the switch slides out. Disconnect the two wires on the switch and connect the wires to the new switch. The new switch slides into place. I tested the new switch before I put it all back together. Took me no longer than 15 minutes.
I removed the back plate on the lower right corner, unfastened the spring on the tension gear, removed the belt from the tension roller and motor pulley. Removed the front panel of the dryer, then removed the drum panel, which holds the drum into place and also the air flow. Removed the drum and belt. Using the snap ring pliers, removed the snap rings from each of the support drum rollers. Removed the rollers and replaced them with new ones, replaced snap rings, replaced drum which was easy along with the belt, replaced the drum panel, went to the back of the dryer and replace the belt on the motor pulley and tension roller, re hooked the spring. Returned to the front of the dryer and replaced the door switch kit. Overall it was very simple operation. The hardest part is to get the belt in the proper place.
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