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PartSelect Number PS11757553
This two inch wide idler pulley wheel is beige in color and is made of plastic. This pulley wheel comes with its own metallic bearing in its center.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Thump-thump, thump-thump went the dryer. After doing some research it sounded like the drum support rollers needed to be replaced. When disassembling the dryer, I discovered that this model is different than other Amana dryers. Do not start the disassembly with the top of the dryer. There are two front panels. You must first remove the smaller lower panel. You will find two screws close to the floor. Once you remove the screws the lower panel will come off exposing more screws. Remove those screws and the upper front panel will come off. Tilt the bottom of the panel out to clear the clips at the top. You will then see two screws attached holding down the top of the dryer with brackets. The rest of the disassembly is as described on the partselect video. I replaced the drum support rollers and also the pulley wheel and belt for good measure. I put it all back together. Rather proud of myself, I turn the dryer on. Thump-thump, thump-thump went the dryer. Argggh! Upon closer inspection, I saw that the thumping noise was made when the seam of the drum passed over the support wheel. The seam of the drum had broken causing the metal to flex on one side and create the thumping noise. I had the drum seam welded. There is still a slight thump from the repair, but it is so much better! So if you have a thumping dryer, make sure you check out the seam on the drum as well as the support rollers.
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remove front panels starting with lower panel and then the upper panel and also the screws that hold the top,lift the to and support it out of the way. removed the front drum support and reached in and took the belt off the idler pulley and then remove the drum. at this point you can get to the idler pulley and the drum support rollers. remove the snap rings and the old rollers and pulley and install the new parts in revers of removal. wrap the new belt around drum and place the drum on the rear support and reinstall the front drum support and put the belt on the same way as removed. reinstall front panels . doneSafety note: Be sure that the dryer plug and receptacle has no corrosion, mine did since the dryer is never unplugged since being installed, and after about 1/2 hr I could smell something burning and it was the plug and receptacle had melted due to a poor connection. Temp of the plug was over 160 deg. Installed new outlet and plug, all fine now
Pulled bottom access panel of, pulled front door section off, pulled lint filter assembly out, pulled drum out, disconnected idler arm, installed new idler arm and wheel, new belt around drum, drum back in, front door assembly back on, then routed belt over idler arm wheel, lint assembly back on, bottom access panel back on. very easy job, the hardest part was pushing the new idler wheel over the new pulley lever, but with a few firm taps with a hammer it was on. *Tips...save the idler wheel washers and retaining clip from bad wheel and be sure to draw yourself a diagram of what color wires hook up where, in case you forget.
I removed the bottom panel, then the larger front panel that includes the door. After that, removed the top 2 screws so that the top would swing up (but not lift off). After that, I removed the front "bulkhead", and the drum. Then it was just a short matter of sweeping everything out, and replacing the parts one by one. Most came off with a socket, or snap ring pliers. Pretty obvious at this point...Be sure to label any wires - I removed 5 wires all total, and wrote down the colors and where they went.It's great to have help when working with the drum. BTW, you CAN replace the belt without taking out the drum, but you better have strong fingers to move the belt tensioner and slip the belt on it - all with one hand. I did it, but that was the least "fun" part....
pulled dryer out far enough to lean it back against an object for supprt. removed small bottom front cover then door front after disconecting light and switch wires(make note of which goes where), remove top bolts and flip over carefully allowing to hang without disconnecting wire harness, remove belt and drum. at this point it was posible to get to the belt tentioner pully w/o removing the motor but was easier to replace after i discovered there were only two bolts holding the motor in place. at this point i needed two wrenches to remove the pully lever from the motor frame and replace. put everything back together in reverse and no more screaching. : total parts needed were $27.00 as i thankfully decided to replace pully and lever asumming that six months of screaching may have caused wear to the lever and was right. i replaced the belt while i was in there bringing the total to $42 and change. the belt was not needed so i now have a spare which may come in handy someday. thanks to partselect.com i saved BIG $ in repairs or replacement and now have turned the buzzer on to know when the laundry is done.
Downloaded an Amana service manual and followed directions. Easy...and was able to clean out built up lint not to mention a couple of dollars in change!
Removed top and front panels, reached in by motor and removed belt from motor, removed drum and replaced slids and back drum wheels. re-assembled the front and top.
I unplugged the dryer then removed 2 sheet metal bolts on the lower front access panel. The panel was removed and this exposed the duct for the hot air exhaust. I had to remove the duct to access the package for the motor and worn out pulley. I had to the remove 2 bolts in the bottom corners for the upper front of the dryer. The upper panel was then easily removed, 3 phillips screws had to be removed from inside the drum area on the back of the exhaust duct where the lint filter is inserted.Once these are removed the duct cowms right out.This exposes the motor and tension pully platform. I then reached in and moved the tension pulley to relieve pressure and took off the belt that drives the drum.There are 2 botls at the front base that need to be removed then the platform can be slid forward and the rear tongue comes out of the groove. Rotate the platform 45 degrees and you can access the bolt and nut that mounts the pully arm to the platform. Once removed the spring can be removed and the assembly taken out of the dryer and parts switched over, There is a spring clip you will need to remove normally with a special tool but 2 needle nose pliers will work. Once the parts are replaced reverse the process. Putting the belt back on can be confusing lying on your back with one arm inside the dryer but persistance overcomes resistance,
1st of all my dryer came apart differently than your video showed. I had to remove the lower front panel (2 5/16 screws) then remove the upper front panel (2 5/16 screws)and the spring clips mentioned in the video, then the top with two more screws. After that the removal of the front drum support assembly was as shown in the video. I then loosened the drive belt, removed the drum and the external grip ring securing the idler pulley. The pulley rotated very hard since the shaft and bearing were partially seized. I cleaned the shaft before installing the new pulley. When I initially took the dryer apart to see what the problem was I noticed the front drum guides were showing wear so I ordered and replaced them and the felt pads just to prevent problems in the near future.
Unplug the dryer.Removed top. Then removed wires from switch to door (make sure you mark them). Removed front door and bottom panel. Removed lint trap assembly.All bolt heads were 5/16 and used putty knife for top 2 spring clips. Removed belt (remember how it goes) and took out drum. Next clean and vacuum everything really good. Have a good set of retaining ring pliers, these are used to remove the 2 drum support rollers and idler pulley. Drum support rollers have FRONT marked on them, make sure they are facing out. Always make sure retaining rings are locked in there grooves. Next put new belt on drum and place drum back in dryer. Next put put belt on motor pulley and push up on idler puller to run belt under it (this is probably the hardest part). Now just go in reverse order in putting everything back on. Always make sure to double check everthing like the belt make sure its on right and not twisted and check drum make sure its on support rollers and is set right when lint trap assembly is installed and wires reconnected. When cleaning i used a vacuum and an air compressor to blow out all the debris from the motor and other areas.
removed bottom panel.Has 2 screws on bottom.take belt off of idler. take 2 screws out of motor base.turn motor sideways& remove bolt from arm that holds idler. remove snapring holding idler. replace pully & reassemble in reverse. Thank You Partselect for prompt shipping. A+ Rating
Removed bottom front panel (two nuts)Disconnected wiring to front door and removedRemove the two nuts holding the top panel to the front and lifted top out of the wayDisconnected the drive belt from the motorLift the drum up and out of the machineReplaced parts, cleaned cabinet and reassembled with new parts
Removed dryer vent and gas line. Turned off gas first. Removed front of dryer. Removed door to get to drum support. Removed drum and belt. Removed and replaced rear drum rollers. Removed and replaced front drum supports. Idler wheel was removed and replaced. Cleaned inside of unit and reinstalled the drum and belt.Reinstalled all of pieces removed. Reconnected power and started dryer. Sounded like a new dryer. Reconnected gas and put unit back in place.
I followed the belt replacement video and voila, the job was done!
removed drum and motor and installed new parts. Very fast service on parts. Well be back if needed.
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