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PartSelect Number PS11743313
This part is also known as the cycling thermostat and this bi-metal device controls the activation of the icemaker ejection cycle.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The easiest thing to do was pull the ice make off. After taking the 3 screws out of the wall of the freezer, take a screwdriver (flathead) and push on the tab for the electrical plug and wiggle the cord out. Then you can take 3 screws out for the main cover and another 2 screws on the next cover. There's the part, pop it out and replace holding pins and start the process of putting back together the opposite way you took it apart.
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My troubleshooting narrowed down the problem to either the control assembly or the thermostat, so I bought both just in case. The motor assembly fixed the problem and I didn't need to install the thermostat.The main thing I want to tell others who are doing this repair, however, relates to the thermostat. If you do indeed need to replace the thermostat (#PS380941) there is something you will need that is not included with the part or mentioned anywhere on this site. The instructions with the thermostat indicate you need to apply something called "Aluminastic" to the thermostat when installing it. I don't know about you, but that isn't something I have around the house, so be sure to order a tube of it when you get the thermostat so you don't have to take a trip to the store to get it to finish the repair.
The ice maker was not getting water. I hotwired the water valve by switching the connectors for the water dispenser and ice maker water valves and water flowed into the icemaker when the water dispenser lever was pushed. I wronly assumed the water valve was good. I removed the icemaker and determined that the gear motor was not getting power in the position the icemaker had stopped.In this position, the thermostat determines when the motor gets power so I replaced the thermostat. The icemaker still would not get water! As it turns out, the water solenoid was sticking due to a deteriorated rubber washer which let the solenoid plunger get too far out of the magnetic field. I replaced the water solenoid assy and all is well. Don't get fooled by hotwiring the valve. If it isn't getting water, the solenoid probably is the culprit.
Icecubes came out half-way, and refrooze. I figured out, that the melter does not work (HEATER in the icemaker) Voltage measured 105V no load. Studied the Internet, and folloved an advice: shorted the back wire and the blackwire with white stripes.these go to relay contacts. It seems, that the relay contacts are no good on Infrared receiver boaed. I turn off manually the icemaker, when needed
Heating element broke and fried the rest of the parts had to take out the bad parts and put in the new ones and it worked. i have fixed this problem three times now.
No water going into the ice tray. I unplugged the water valve solenoid at the bottom of the refrigerator in the back left corner, checked continuity on both. All showed resistance across the contacts so I believed the water inlet valves were at least not blown. The only other electronic component of the ice maker is the control board with the motor and then the thermostat. I purchased both. Also, make sure you buy the Aluminastic cement. It is the thermal contact point between the face of the thermostat and the ice tray. Expensive as heck, but unfortunately necessary. PartSelect should offer a very small tube for a small cost rather than a huge tube that you will never use for $27. Anyway, I put both the control board and thermostat in and an hour later was making ice again. Total cost was just over $100 for everything including shipping. I must say that PartSelect delivers fast and everything was exactly what I ordered, so the service is excellent and the website is excellent.
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