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PartSelect Number PS11742274
Meant as a backup to a high limit thermostat, this fuse is typically set to trip at a higher temperature than that of a high limit thermostat. This is a one-time use fuse, so when it does trip, you do need to replace it. It's letting you know that something is wrong with your dryer.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Removed the heat coil and checked for continuity with ohm meter. Coil was good. Then checked for continuity across thermal fuse (located on the heater coil unit). Fuse was bad. Ordered fuse and replaced. Problem solved.
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This is a gas dryer, propane. My wife and I live in a remote area. So field mice are abundant. We keep a plug over our dryer vent in order to keep any inquisitive mice out. My wife forgot to remove the vent cover and the dryer stopped working after about minutes. We read about other dryers having this problem and apparently the fuse (non-resettable) tripped. I replaced the fuse and it works fine. Thank You Partsselect.
Replace the High Limit fuse, accessing from the front lower pannel. Diagram from PartSelect.com were extremely useful.
After reading about the things that can cause a dryer not to heat - clogged vent leading to thermal overload, heating element burned out, I took a look at the vents to make sure they were clean. The vent door on the outside of the house was frozen shut, sealed by frozen lint. After popping off the lower panel (2 nuts) and taking out the heating element panel (another 2 nuts) I visually inspected the "spring" heating wire for a break and didn't see one. I checked the thermal fuse for continuity and it was open, so I ordered a new one. After it arrived, it took 10 mins to get the drer back together. Easy repair, recommend doing it yourself and getting the parts from these guys because they're so quick and the prices are good. For $50 I could have had the complete heating assembly if I needed it - which is less than a call out from Sears or an appliance company by itself.
I pulled the heating element loose and layed it on the floor so I could see if the elements were heating. This required totally disassembling the dryer from the front including removing the drum. Then I bypassed the door switch so the dryer would run disassembled. Then plugged in the dryer and turned it on. Heating coils did not glow... Hmmmm. Put a meter across the two thermal switches mounted on the element assembly to find one of them was open. Ordered switch from PARTSELECT; ordered a belt too while I had it apart. Parts came very fast and reassembled with new parts. WORKS LIKE A CHAMP!!! Thanks Partselect!
Disconnected the electricity,removed lower front panel with socket wrench and located high limit thermal fuse Removed wires and unscrewed old part and installed new thermal fuse. I reconnected the wires and it works perfectly.Also vacuumed out the lower area to remove unwanted lint while I was in this area. I saved a $75.00 service call by fixing it myself..
Had to replace a thermal fuse in the dryer. They had ran the dryer with the lint tube blocked which in turn blew the fuse. I tested the fuse with a ohms meter which showed no resistance telling me that it had shut off the dryers heater to prevent a fire. Ordered the correct from parts select. It was sent quickly. You must pop the top on this Maytag using a putty knife than remove the belt and drum to access the fuse. Installed new fuse reassembled dryer plugged it in and everything worked fine. Another job well done!
removed front cover and top took drum out remove heating unit replced limit switch and fuse reinstalled installed new idler put new belt around drum installed drum replaced glides put top back on and front cover . then replaced boosting heater witch is on the blower also cycling thermostat
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