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PartSelect Number PS11740482
This genuine OEM washer has a 3/4 inch outside diameter. This thrust washer can be used on most makes and models of dryers. A complete list of compatible dryers is available below. The washer is found on dryers around the drum support rollers and idler pulleys, and helps prevent the rollers and pulleys from bumping up against the brackets they are installed on. Your thrust washer could be defective if you notice your dryer wont tumble, rotate, or turn; or there is a load squealing or whining noise when the dryer tumbles. The repair is a relatively easy job. You will require a putty knife, 5/16 inch nut driver, and E-Ring pliers. Remember to disconnect the power to your dryer before you begin the repair.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The first thing I did was to unplug the dryer from the wall. Then I removed the bottom two screws and slid the bottom cover off so i could see all the way to the back, I tipped the dryer back against the wall and searched for the problem with a flashlight. I noticed that one of the guide wheels that held the drum in place was sheared off. I took the new drum support roller out and carefully slid it over the shaft, I had to jiggle it around for a bit, but then it finally was seated correctly. I replaced the washer and then the clip using a pair of needle nose pliers and a regular screw driver and then turned the dryer by hand to see if the wheel came off. After confirming that it worked, I put the cover back on, and plugged it in and tested it.
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Pulled off the lower panel with 5/16 socket.Pulled off the door assembly by removing the two screws at the bottom of the door assembly. I pulled down a little and then out. be carefull of the wires. Other posts said to remove. The wires were long enough I did not have to remove them. I just leaned it against the wall. I then removed the 4 screws that hold the front piece in.pulled it off replaced brackets , installed self adhesive felt(stuck good) and then glides. Mine were thin but not the problem. I then reached under the drum and released the belt from the tensioner. I then pulled the whole drum out.This is the time to vacum out good. I could get to the rear rollers very easy. The left roller was shot and the shaft half wore into(the problem). I pulled off the two screws holding the roller support. Normally You have to remove the wheel with snap ring pliers first to remove the support. In this case snap ring long gone. Replaced support shaft, installed thrust washers and roller with grease for both sides. The right support shaft was still good. Removed tensioner pulley and inspected. It was just as good as the new one. Cleaned and greased and reinstalled. Put new belt on the tub and slid it back in. Be carefull to get the belt on the proper side of the tensioner. I then installed the front supprt in place to support the tub with the 4 screws. Spun the tub(felt good) then reached under and reinstalled belt to motor and tensioner. Spun again to check for belt alignment. (Check) Reinstalled door an lower panel. Test Quiet Sounds like new. Very easy! I hope this helps someone just as the other post has helped me. Blessings to all.
Unplugged dryer, turned off gas, raised front of dryer with two 2X4's on edge resting on legs, removed two lower panel screws, removed lower panel. Removed lower blower & filter assembly, screws (3) are on the inside of drum. (Good chance to clean it out) Removed two lower front upper main panel screws. Supported top panel with wood for access. Removed panel slowly, marked wires that go to door switch, set panel aside. Removed tension on belt by reaching in on the right lower side and unhooking the tensioner from belt, look to see how it is installed, for reinstallation on assembly. Pulled drum out slowly as not to damage seals on drum. replaced parts, attached with self tapping screws.(screws all the same size) reassembly in reverse order. Will need to put belt on drum before installing drum. Check drum alignment with rollers and seals. Used very small amount of high pressure grease on roller bracket and shaft assembly where the support roller shaft spins for lubrication. All's quiet. (Vacuumed out inside while dissassembled)
Removed the two sheet metall screws on the front foot panel, removed the four screws holding the door assembly, wrote down the wiring placement for the front door, removed the blower bulkhead assembly by removing one screw in the bottom of the dryer. Removed two screws and propped the dryer top panel up at a 45 degree angle to gain additional clearance. Removed the drum and belt from the front and back seals by applying simple outward pressure. Removed the screw in the bottom of the motor assembly allowing me to reposition the assembly for easy access. Removed bolt holding old Idler arm assembly. Assembled new Idler pulley referring to old assembly. Reversed the process to complete the repair. Note: I found it easier to simply hang the dryer belt over the dryer drum when replacing the drum in the dryer. First you need to place and align the drum then route the belt back to the moter pulley and then over the idler pulley. if you try to put the belt over the motor and then align the drum, it is difficult to keep the belt on the pulley. It might help to draw a diagram of the belt route or obtain the belt route diagram from the website for reference. Very easy job.
first I unplugged the electrical plug then I removed the lower covet by taking out the 5/16 screws. I then took out the 5/16 screws that hold the top part of the front cover and removed it.I then worked the belt off the aggitator pully and removed the hoses from the pump. I then used a 1/2 in soclet on long extension th remove the four bolts that hold the motor and pump assembly. I then worked the assembly out of the cabinate and using a long #20 torx bit I removed the pumfrom the housing. I removed the belt, then I removed the housing off the motor and replaced the Idler bracket with the idler pully. I then re-assembled it in the reverse of taking it apart. Works great with the new idler and belt.David Hilton
I took off the lower front panel and “watched” with a flashlight during the spin cycle. I could see that the idler pulley was intermittently stopping and starting. The back of the drive belt was also worn in the center. When the idler pulley was moving, it squeaked, when it didn’t, the friction wore the belt and made the smell.To replace the Idler Pulley Wheel: 1. Take off the lower and upper front panels to access the motor assembly. 2. Remove motor by loosening four bolts. 3. Remove spring that applies tension to the idler pulley. 4. Remove the electrical connector by squeezing the plastic tab on top. 5. Remove hoses by gripping clamps with pliers (put down rags first to catch water) 6. Unhook belt from tub pulley 7. Remove 1 cabinet spring to make it easier to remove motor 8. Remove motor. 9. Remove allen screws holding the pump to the motor10. Remove the pump and belt (take note of the location of the belt before removing).11. Remove retaining ring to replace Idler Pulley Wheel (this was probably the trickiest part; I used a very tiny needle nose pliers and straight screwdriver).12. Replace the washers on either side of the Idler Pulley Wheel as well as the retaining ring.13. Replace belt.14. Reassemble in reverse order.15. Be thankful for the money you saved on a service call.
Pulled motor, as the belt will not come off unless you take to water pump off off the motor. Installed new idler wheel, washers, clips and belt. Reinstalled motor.Works good and hopefully lasts a long time!
First unplug anf turn off the gas to the dryer.1. Remove the 2 screws located at the bottom of the front panel. 2. Use a flat head screw driver to pry the top of the dryer lid. The clips are pretty strong. This allows the front dryer panel to be removed.3. Remove the 4 screws that hold the front of the drum ring in place.4. Slide drum belt off of motor. Not the belt path before removing it.5. Remove drum. This will give you complete access to the dum support roller.6. This is a good time to vaccum the inside of the dryer.7. You will need a pair of snap ring plyers to remove the snap ring that holds the roller in place.8. Replace roller.9. Reverse installation.10. It runs great and has not been the quite in 10 years.I would definitely use Parts Select again.The parts shipped quickly and correctly.
1-Unplugged drier2-removed lower panel-(2)-8mm screws3-removed intake from fan-(3)-8mm screws4-removed dryer's front panel-w/door assembly-(2)-8mm screws. (note there is a door switch you will need to disconnect the wires and remember which terminals they go to.5-remove the front drum support-(4)-8mm screws***** at this point the drum is exposed *****6-reached under the drum pulled the tensioner to relieve tension on belt, then dismounted the belt from only the tensioner and motor shaft; leave the belt on the drum!7-pull drum toward you and forward about 3-to-4 inches, this exposes the drum rollers.8-use a screwdriver and pry-off the retaining clip on the end of the roller's shaft and remove the roller. 9-remove the roller support-(2)-8mm screws10- reinstall new roller support11- apply a light coat of disc-brake hi-temp wheel bearing grease to the roller support shaft, very light!12-install a new wavy thrust washer, new roller(note they will say "front" on the side that should face you. Don't mount it backwards!13-install the outer thrust washer and the new retaining clip; use a flashlight for this part! 14-repeat for the other drum roller.**** while you have it apart use a vacuum to remove lint from every where you see it; it is a fire hazard!**** if you think you need a drive belt now is the best time to change it ***** 15- re-assemble the dryer in the reverse order, don't forget to re-install the drive belt and be careful not to pinch the door switch wires.16-re-plug the drier and test
1.Unplug unit(gas model, did not shut off) 2. Remove bottom front panel-2bolts3 Remove main front panel-2 bolts (no need to remove door)4. Make note of wire colors on door switch and light, disconnect5. Remove 3 screws that hold air duct assembly(that lint filter rests in) then set main front panel aside 6. Remove lower air duct (to blower motor)-3 bolts7. Lift and tilt-up top lid/panel of dryer and wedge wood or ? (this will give you easy access and better light)8. Reach back behind motor to move idler pulley and remove belt from motor & idler pulley9. Remove 4 bolts and lift up and out front bulkhead frame that holds drum in place10. Slowly pull straight out & slightly up entire drum11. Remove circlip/retaining ring, washer, roller, washer and shaft assembly.12. Vacuum entire unit 13. Light lubricant on shaft when reinstall in reverse order.Snap ring pliers and a mental note of how the belt is routed on idler will prevent unwanted profanity.This is an inferior/substandard unit before Maytag bought them. Spend the money and replace both rollers with new shafts (about 50.00). I have spent over 140.00 in parts to keep this unit running (less than 8 years old). So do the math before you start pouring money into this model.
pulled cover off face of machine to gain axcess saw pulley had come off brass sleeve( Bad design should have had a larger washer on bottom to help support pulley ) would of prevented this problem Removed motor to gain axcess to pulley and belt change . Keep a towel near by to catch any extra water still in hoses on lower pump
I pretty much followed a lot of the earlier postings on partselect.com that provided encouragement to pursue replacing this part on my 17 year old dryer (sorry, money is tight these days and I prefer repair to $800 replacement).I'd like to add that I borrowed a pair of snap-ring pliers from work which made removal and later securing of roller onto shaft much easier and probably avoided a lot of knuckle bruising and cursing.I erred though in a couple of places during the replacement. Disassembly took about 20 minutes. However, when I re-assembled I had mistakenly already put the roller onto the shaft before trying to put the drum back in. That isn't possible so I had to remove (an initial groan but only a few extra minutes in the end) the roller from the shaft, then reposition the drum and then the roller back on the shaft.I also decided to replace the belt while I was in there and I should have taken a picture or made a drawing of the belt route before I took it off since I was later left pondering how the heck to snake the belt onto the shaft and also the tensioner. A quick trip to the internet though showed me a similar route and reminded me how to route it.I'd also like to add to be cognizant of the wires on the door and front panel when disassembling.Anyone with any sense of mechanical ability and a little common sense ought to be able to do this repiar.Thanks Part Select!
Parts that were recommended for the noise issue were spot on. Instructions were very helpful and made the job go very smooth. Replaced the belt, rollers don't forget to order (2) felt pad and idler pulley replaced. The part suggestions for the heat problem did not fix the problem. The burner flame would come on for 2-5 min. then go off. A few min. later the burner would try to ignite but would not start. The igniter would get cherry red but no activation. I end up replacing the coil kit. Turned off the gas removed (2) screws and wala done 5 min. and it fixed the problem.
First of all I would not have done this if it wasn't foryour website. Using the schematics to figure outthe right parts was easy. It was also helpful in theactual repair process. I have added your website to my favorites in my browser. The parts arrived in 3 days and I live in Reno. Great Website.M.B.
Removed front panels and swiveled lid upwards. Loosened tensioner, removing belt and then carefully extracting the drum. Replaced 2 drum glides on underside of front panel. Next 2 rollers, which appear to unscrew, but do not do so. You must remove the retaining ring (surprise! ...and 2 screw drivers later). This was the longest and most frustrating part of the whole ordeal. Then just reverse the process for reassembly. This was my first electric dryer repair and it really wasn't too bad. Online docs I found were somewhat helpful, but really luck and perseverance. I did save probably $300 in replacement costs, which is quite satisfying. .
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