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PartSelect Number PS11722098
This is a lid switch for a washing machine. The pin on the lid pushes on the lever of the lid switch to tell the washing machine that the lid is closed, which allows the wash cycle to begin. The washer will not spin if the machine senses the lid is open. The tools youll need for this repair are a Phillips screwdriver and 5/16 nut driver. Be sure to disconnect the power supply and fill hoses from the appliance. When reinstalling the harness, take notice of the flat edges on the plastic terminal; they should face towards the front of the washer. This is a genuine OEM part.
This part works with the following brands: Whirlpool, Admiral, Estate, Inglis, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Maytag, Crosley, Jenn-Air, Hardwick, Magic Chef, Amana, Caloric & Glenwood.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Simple repair.All I had to do is un-screw one screw for the ground with a crescent wrench, two screws holding the switch at the opening of the load door and two screws for the control board to tilt it back to properly connect the lid switch. The hardest screw was the one ground scew for the switch which is located under the to cover. I could have probably lifted the hove top off but as carefully as I could, I unscrewed it with a crescent wrench.I initially thought I was going to required to change out the water pump because the washer would not discharge the water and lock up the sequence. Luckly I noticed that the lid switch was totally disconnected from the contact point of the lid where the screws go in to the switch to hold it steady. It seems as thought the switch was very brittle at that point.
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Disconnected power cord. Removed two screws from top console and rolled it back to access case clips. Unsnapped clips and tilted case forward and removed lid switch connector. Removed faulty switch and replaced it with the new assembly. Re assembled washer and tested for correct operation.
Took out screws on the back of washer behind the lid.Press on the left clip and then the right clip from the washer that was attach to lid.And flip the lid a torch the back.I disconnected the switch from the lid and washer.and then I remove the vase and put it in the floor.I remove the damage lid switch,and replace the new lid switch.It was very easy. Thank you.
The video was really important to the ease of the repair. I shut off the water and electrical sources as directed. After disconnecting the timer/control assembly I disconnected the wiring connector between the main mechanism and the lid assembly. Next I released the clips that held the back of the washer to the "surround" that encases the main working parts of the washer. The surround was set aside for removal of the faulty switch. Next a careful cleaning of the entire washer removed years of dust,etc. The install of the new switch was the easiest part. The reassembly was not as easy as the disassembly had been. It was quite a trick to lift the surround back onto the frame and center it in the four pegs of the base. My wife got on the floor and directed me as to which way to move the surround. After a few tries it settled into place. I replaced the clips holding the back of the unit to the surround, connected the leads of the lid switch , Anchored the control unit to the base and after reconnecting the H2O and power lines, a successful test was performed.
I watched the video & I knew I could replace the Lit Switch. I have never seen the inside of a washer before (I'm kinda a good handyman) we called "the guy" out to fix the machine but after watching the video I knew I could save the almost $200 "the guy" wanted to charge us! It was so easy. I order the part from your Co & 3 days it arrived as promised and the day ... Our washing machine work great! Two things, 1) saved a couple hundred & 2) I did it myself & that feels good. I have told several friends about your website! My next project, fixed the ice maker! Again, thank you!
Watched the fix it video on parts selct web site, adapted the procedure to my washer. Removed 4 screws holding control panel down, the 2 clips, tilted case foward and replaced the switch, reversed the process and it was done. Tamara d from customer service was a big help in verifing the part since my numbers and parts select numbers were different.
I diagnosed the problem using the symptom list on the web site. The real give-away was that I could get the washer to start draining and spinning by poking my pinky finger into the hole on the right side to activate the bad lid switch (and keeping it there until the washer was completely drained). Once we got the new switch, we just followed the directions on the video. It was very straightforward. We saved at least $110 (The part plus shipping cost only $40. Sears had said they would charge $150 just to come over and look at the washer).
Took off control panel, removed outer housing, replaced switch and cleaned entire unit, put it back together and it worked. I found out that the glue holding the old switch together had failed causing the two parts to separate, causing the failure.
I just replaced th old lid switch with the new one.
1. Remove 2 screws and 2 bolts on the back of the Washer (Located on Top)2. Lifted the Control Panel and moved it to the back of the washer (Leaning it backwards)3. Removed 2 clips4. Detached the Lid Switch electrical plug and pushed it down5. Remove the lid Switch 6. Installation is the reverse
I removed the two screws to the control panel, tilted it back, unpluged the old element, removed the two metal clips holding the outside housing then pulled it away from the washing machine. I then removed the two screws holding the element. I used a screw driver to lift the clasp holding the wires. Once the old element was removed I put in the new element. The hardest part was getting the housing back on.
Googled "Lid Switch Broken in Washer" with the model number of washer. There were several very helpful articles on how to do it. My boyfriend did it and said it was easy. The hardest part was putting everything back exactly where it belongs.
I took off the broken switch, from underneath the lid support. Then I disconnected the ground wire and replace it with the new piece.
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