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PartSelect Number PS1148434
This drum belt, often referred to as a drive belt, is used in the assembly of dryers. It goes around the drum, the idler pulley, and the motor pulley. As the armature on the motor spins, this belt is what rotates the drum and tumbles your clothes during the dry cycle. If you can hear the motor running but the drum is not moving that is a sign your belt is broken, stretched, or damaged, and can no longer grip the drum. This belt is 87 3/4 inches long, and is 1/4 inch wide. Because it is made of rubber it is common for this part to become brittle and need to be replaced. This is an authentic OEM replacement part, and it is sold individually. Remember to unplug your dryer before you begin repair work.
This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Both my husband and I had watched the videos for the parts we ordered. While we had a small space to work in, the repair on our dryer went fine. We are very happy with the parts we ordered along with the short amount of time it took to arrive. Thank you very much for the videos. Purchasing these parts and having the videos really saved us money compared to having to purchase a new dryer.
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Replace rear bearing, found Exhust tube seal broken. Went ahead and replaced Drum belt & Idler arm assembly. Works like New !
Followed the video as my unit was exact model( Front Loader) Thank You for your quick ship to me here in Iowa as my repair was made in St. Louis. Parts came with in 2 days then drove to St. Louis with confidence. We purchased this set in 2003 and it is first repair on dryer. This in my rental unit. Thx
Replaced the heating element assembly. Problem was still there. Checked the electrical schematic to try to resolve. Everything checked out except the contacts on the motor M-1 to M-2 had no continuity. Removed the switch from the motor and exercised it. Works fine now.
Follwed all the other comments real easy
This was a simple repair. Before I ordered the parts I had read several of the "repair stories" on this site, plus my neighbor explained to me the process. So I had a good idea of what I was getting into.I am not real sure how long it took because I was watching a football game while I was making the repair, but I would guess if I did it straight through it would be about 1 hr.Replacing the Drum Glide and Lower Basket Seal1) Pulled dryer out from the wall2) Unplugged Dryer3) Pop the top off the dryer. Insert a screw driver in the crack right at the corners to pry the top off.4) My dryer had a quick connector for all the wiring (which I found half way through the repair) that allowed me to disconnect all the wires leading to the door. If you can find that disconnect that so you can easily remove the door & front panel.5) Removed two screws holding the front panel on.6) Remove the front panel. Once the 2 screws are removed the only thing holding my front panel on were a couple of clips.7) Removed the Drum Glide (top) & Lower Basket Seal (bottom) around the door frame in the front panel. This is the worst part because you have to scrape a lot of the glue and it takes a little while to do this.8) Glue the Drum Glide. I used some spring clamps to hold it in place. Glue did come with the Drum Glide (but not the Lower Basket Seal)9) Glue the Lower Basket Seal. Since I only had 4 spring clamps I waited until the Drum Glide was secure. So if you have several of these clamps that would be best.** if not replacing the belt skip that section.Replacing Dryer Drum BeltI took a lot of the people's advise and replaced the belt while I had the dryer apart. But if you are only replacing the belt perform steps 1 - 6 above first.1) Remove the access panel on the back of the dryer. Mine had for screws.2) Remove the belt. There is a spring loaded pulley that you just move to one side so the belt will loosen up enough to remove.3) Place the new belt on. I started in the front and moved the belt over the drum to the back. Then moved to the back of the dryer and through the access panel placed the belt over the pulleys.Thats pretty much it. I barely got dirty. Oh, while I was in there I cleaned as much lint as I could. That was the dirty part. Now all you have to do is put it back together.1) Reconnect the front panel, and wire harness.2) Plug it back in.If you are wondering why I didn't replace the bearing, I didn't have any grease and the part fit but didn't look exactly like the current one. And the current one looked ok. Since this was my first attempt at fixing a dryer; I decided not to press my luck.
I googled and found parts select, listed model make and found parts diagram, found suspected parts from trouble shooting blog. I read repair stories, people who performed identical repairs, followed their lead, made notes ordered parts and easily repaired my dryer for a fraction of the cost of replacing dryer.
1.Removed access panel on back of machine in order to place a block under the drum(see step 3).2. Removed the top (clips), 3.removed the front panel(clips), block placed under drum earlier prevents drum from tilting and makes removing front panel with door very easy.4. Slipped new belt on. 5.Replaced front panel and removed block under drum. 6. Aligned belt and checked movement of drum, 7. attched belt to pulley on motor and positioned belt tensioner.8. Installed top and access panels.This repair is very straight forward, block under drum makes things easy, since the drum stays level when the front panel is removed and replaced.
First, I popped the two clips that hold on the top. Then, I removed two screws and unplugged a few wire connectors to remove the front panel. I scraped off the felt, which was rubbing the drum since the white plastic glides had worn completely through. I applied the high-temp adhesive liberally, laid on the new felt, and applied some spring clamps to hold it in place. I removed the small back panel to replace the belt, which was really easy with the dryer apart. The 7-year-old original belt was a little cracked.
First of all, I LOVE Partselect.com.. The parts are reasonable, and arrive in a timely fashion.. The repair stories are far and away, one of the BEST features of this website - so hats off to the DIY'ers who have helped me overcome my challenges and helped me stay in the ..ahem.. "favorable" graces of my wife.. I need all the help I can get there.. Anyway, read the other repair stories first - LOTS of great insight.. I only have a couple pointers to add - below...This is easily my 4th appliance repair project with Partselect.com, and I can say without a doubt that the experience has been positive every single time.. Until now.. I got the dryer torn down and realized that I SHOULD have ordered the SEAL-BASKET LOWER felt with my original order. When I inspected it for my list of parts to order, the upper glide was thrashed - no brainer.. I thought the lower felt was fine.. d'oh! I discovered this morning that I was wrong.. So, I JUST ordered the lower basket seal for *next* weekend.. (If you are gonna replace the original upper glide, replace the lower basket seal as well..) It'll be a slam dunk, though..Now, for a couple useful tips:If you are a car guy, get out your trusty can of brake parts cleaner to help clean off the old adhesive residue after you rip off the old upper glide felt. I also used a 1" plastic scraper to help facilitate removal, but the brake parts cleaner was a Godsend. I think I read someone else's suggestion to use "goof off" or whatever - but I couldn't find mine, so..... ...out came the brake cleaner... :) two thumbs up. Just use it sparingly - all those solvents are bad for children in California for some odd reason..Spring loaded clamps to hold the felt down as the glue dries are also "nice to have". I used one on each end of the felt, and one for each of the teflon / plastic glides.. Finally - milk this job for all it's worth - it'll only take you 45-60 minutes or so... good luck...!!!
Found instructions, correct except for 2 screws at the bottom of the kickplate, which turned out to be 2 philips head screws at top holding control panel to case. Would advise using gloves when holding drum, because front and rear lips are very sharp. This is the second time drum guide and lower basket seal where replaced. First time was in 2006. Saved a bunch of money by doing repair myself. If I had to pay for service call and parts replacement I probability considered replacing unit rather than repair.
Removed back panel. Popped off top of dryer, then removed front of dryer. Slid belt onto tumbler, put front cover back on, put top back on and adjusted belt frombottom panel cover.
i removed two screws that hold the top of the dryer on at the back of the dryer then i removed a couple of screws that hold the front of the dryer on at the top of the front then i disconnected the two wiring connecters inside the front and a ground wire when the belt came i put it around the drum and took two screws out on the back of the dryer near the floor that hold a small panel in place to access the motor i put the belt on the motor and idler wheel and that was it put together and done
Appearances can be deceiving.....while dis-assembly was a piece of cake; the problem turned out to be failed welds on the dryer drum. REMEMBER this before you make a parts decision. Examine the problem.FIRST! (this comeing from a guy who used to Manage an appliance repair shop WAY back in the day....DUH!)Solution?....new dryer; repair cost too high. None the less...at least I have a spare belt !!!
Tip: After pre-taping the threads on the ball shaft, use painter’s tape to hold it in place while you attach the screws. Do the same with the bearing retainer. Don’t use tape that will leave a residue when you remove it or your clothes will smell like adhesive. Tip for stacker dryer: There is no need to remove the wires connected to the front panel. Swing the panel around to the side. Put a small bungee cord through the door opening and attach it firmly to the top of the dryer. Make sure the cord carries all the weight and that there is no strain on the wires.
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