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PartSelect Number PS1148434
This drum belt, often referred to as a drive belt, is used in the assembly of dryers. It goes around the drum, the idler pulley, and the motor pulley. As the armature on the motor spins, this belt is what rotates the drum and tumbles your clothes during the dry cycle. If you can hear the motor running but the drum is not moving that is a sign your belt is broken, stretched, or damaged, and can no longer grip the drum. This belt is 87 3/4 inches long, and is 1/4 inch wide. Because it is made of rubber it is common for this part to become brittle and need to be replaced. This is an authentic OEM replacement part, and it is sold individually. Remember to unplug your dryer before you begin repair work.
This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
The directions for repair were easy and straight forward.The repair was quick but extra time was needed for the adhesive to dry. The dryer has been working like a charm ever since, although it seems slightly out of balance now and makes a squeaking noise while turning. I checked the adjustable feet and one is stuck. Seem like a quick liquid wrench project.
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First I pryed up the top cover then opened the access cover on the rear to remove the belt from the drum. Next I removed the front of the dryer to have access to remove the drum. I then removed the 3 screws that hold the drum to the rear drum bearing assembly and pulled the drum through the front of the dryer. I then removed the bearing and proceded to remove the ground ball and reassembled in reverse steps.
Printed out what others said, took pictures of everything as I took it apart. I went slow. It all worked the first time I put it back, WOW!Be careful if you are working with a gas line, use two wrenches to disconnect, less stress on the pipe.
first turn off breaker and unplug dryer !!! popped open top of cabinet pushing in on 2 clips with butter knife then removed the front panel,2 phillips screws then pull out on top until 2 spring clips pop out, remove 2 wires from door switch move to side. remove motor access panel lower rear 2 phillips screws. unplug wire clip from motor, push belt tensioner to right,undo belt from motor pulley and tensioner , then undo 1 snap clip from cradle holding motor go to front of dryer remove 2 phillips screws from blower houseing to base. unscrew senser from front of houseing then carefully lift slightly on front of drum and pull blower houseing and motor out as one. hold motor shaft still and unscrew blower wheel from motor shaft, install new motor do not overtighten blower fan you will break it slide belt off drum put new belt on makeing sure grooves are against the drum. slide motor assembly back in put motor back in cradle in rear and reinstall clip, screw down blower assembly in front, reinstall belt on motor pully and tensioner and clip wires back on motor. put front panel back on making sure not to damage felt on front of drum, rotate drum by hand several full turns clockwise to make sure belt tracks properly, reinstall wires on door switch and all screws and rear cover plug in turn breaker back on and test
flipped up the top of dryer, turned it 180 so it sat on the washer. next I took out the two screws that held the front panel on. panel popped off and drum came up and then out of bearing assembly. two screws and the bearing assembly came off; it was melted and deformed. The metal on the back of drum was also deformed and worn oblong. then it was back together taking the old piece off watching how it was on the dryer and putting the new one on the same way.
Replaced upper and lower felt bearings. Lubed the drum bearing. The help on this site was great for doing the repair.
I opened top section with a screwdriver, pushing in the release.I opened front panel with door with screwdriver pushing in the release.I lifted drum out through the front.I replace the Idler Arm assembly.I greased the rear drum bearing race.I vacuumed out and cleaned blower and dryer area.I put the new belt on the drum, reinstalled the drum.I put belt around drive motor and Idler arm assembley.I put front panel with door back on.I put the top panel back down and snapped into place.Tested dryer, job done!
This job is easier than you think and is basically the same procedure for most dryers. This dryer is actually made by Frigidaire. Wife priced a new dryer at Lowe's and the salesman actually told her if she has someone to do the work for free (which was me), then he would fix the old dryer and not buy a new one. This was the salesman at Lowe's saying this. Move dryer to an open area that has plenty of workroom. Remove small back panel (2 screws) and reach in and remove belt from pulley. Use a flat screwdriver or butterknife to push tabs in on both upper front corners of the dryer. Top will pop up and then lift up and gently pivot it backward where it is out of the way. Remove two top inside screws and wires from run button on front panel and the front panel will just fold down to the floor. Pull the drum upwards to pull the rear bearing out of the holder and the drum will come out through the front, not the top of the dryer. It will be a tight fit, but is not hard to remove. Before doing anything else, thoroughly clean everything you can put your hands on, including the blades of the blower wheel. I tested the thermostat switches and they were all okay, but the heating element was actually fried. You could see where it had burned. Unplug the wires from the element and thermostat and remove heating pan from the back and put in new heating element/pan the same way and attach wires. Remove the top and bottom felt gasket from the front panel and scrape as much felt off with a flat blade screwdriver as you can. Follow directions on tube of glue and then glue new felt gaskets on in the same spot as the old ones were. The glue needs to sit for a minute or two to get tacky and then the felt gaskets will hold. I pressed hard all around for a couple of minutes to make sure it was glued down. Put some grease, standard lithium grease will work fine, on the back ball bearing and holder, and slide drum in and make sure the back ball bearing is seated in holder. Slide new belt on drum and then lift front panel back off the floor and onto front of drum. Re-attach two front screws and the two wires for the run button inside the loading door. Go to the back panel and put some grease on the belt pulley shaft and re-attach belt. Close back panel. Go back to the top and rotate drum by hand to verify that it turns freely and there is nothing binding it. Swing top of dryer down and snap it shut on both top corners and you're done. I ran it empty for about 20mins to make sure the glue dried sufficiently and it was good to go. The parts for this at Sears were almost double the price that PartsSelect had them for. Thanks again to PartsSelect. I am recommending you to all of my friends who do their own repairs!
After reading other posts on this page I learned that these symptoms are very common for older dryers when the felt bearings ("seals") are worn out. I replaced the top and bottom felt strips (the top one has plastic wear pads which had completely worn away on my machine). I also took the time to replace the rear plastic bearing and the belt (pretty cheap parts). In addition, after opening up the dryer I found that one of the wire pigtails connectors was black and melted from arcing (bad connection). I replaced the bad connectors with crip-on connectors from Radioshack ($2). Incidentally, I bought lifetime supply of high temp wheel bearing grease: one tub for $7... and used about a teaspoon, but hey, that's still cheap. The hardest part was cleaning off the old felt adhesive, I used nail polish remover to soften the old glue and scrapped of 80% with a screw driver... good enough! I held the new felt on with duct tape until the glue dried. I suggest watching the installation video for the rear bearing replacement I found on this website. It showed me where the screws are and the trick for lifting up the back of the tub using the belt to disengage the rear bearing. It was a snap.
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