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PartSelect Number PS1148434
This 87-3/4" long dryer drum belt goes around the dryer drum and the pulley to rotate the drum once motor is activated.
This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
Replaced upper and lower felt bearings. Lubed the drum bearing. The help on this site was great for doing the repair.
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I opened top section with a screwdriver, pushing in the release.I opened front panel with door with screwdriver pushing in the release.I lifted drum out through the front.I replace the Idler Arm assembly.I greased the rear drum bearing race.I vacuumed out and cleaned blower and dryer area.I put the new belt on the drum, reinstalled the drum.I put belt around drive motor and Idler arm assembley.I put front panel with door back on.I put the top panel back down and snapped into place.Tested dryer, job done!
This job is easier than you think and is basically the same procedure for most dryers. This dryer is actually made by Frigidaire. Wife priced a new dryer at Lowe's and the salesman actually told her if she has someone to do the work for free (which was me), then he would fix the old dryer and not buy a new one. This was the salesman at Lowe's saying this. Move dryer to an open area that has plenty of workroom. Remove small back panel (2 screws) and reach in and remove belt from pulley. Use a flat screwdriver or butterknife to push tabs in on both upper front corners of the dryer. Top will pop up and then lift up and gently pivot it backward where it is out of the way. Remove two top inside screws and wires from run button on front panel and the front panel will just fold down to the floor. Pull the drum upwards to pull the rear bearing out of the holder and the drum will come out through the front, not the top of the dryer. It will be a tight fit, but is not hard to remove. Before doing anything else, thoroughly clean everything you can put your hands on, including the blades of the blower wheel. I tested the thermostat switches and they were all okay, but the heating element was actually fried. You could see where it had burned. Unplug the wires from the element and thermostat and remove heating pan from the back and put in new heating element/pan the same way and attach wires. Remove the top and bottom felt gasket from the front panel and scrape as much felt off with a flat blade screwdriver as you can. Follow directions on tube of glue and then glue new felt gaskets on in the same spot as the old ones were. The glue needs to sit for a minute or two to get tacky and then the felt gaskets will hold. I pressed hard all around for a couple of minutes to make sure it was glued down. Put some grease, standard lithium grease will work fine, on the back ball bearing and holder, and slide drum in and make sure the back ball bearing is seated in holder. Slide new belt on drum and then lift front panel back off the floor and onto front of drum. Re-attach two front screws and the two wires for the run button inside the loading door. Go to the back panel and put some grease on the belt pulley shaft and re-attach belt. Close back panel. Go back to the top and rotate drum by hand to verify that it turns freely and there is nothing binding it. Swing top of dryer down and snap it shut on both top corners and you're done. I ran it empty for about 20mins to make sure the glue dried sufficiently and it was good to go. The parts for this at Sears were almost double the price that PartsSelect had them for. Thanks again to PartsSelect. I am recommending you to all of my friends who do their own repairs!
After reading other posts on this page I learned that these symptoms are very common for older dryers when the felt bearings ("seals") are worn out. I replaced the top and bottom felt strips (the top one has plastic wear pads which had completely worn away on my machine). I also took the time to replace the rear plastic bearing and the belt (pretty cheap parts). In addition, after opening up the dryer I found that one of the wire pigtails connectors was black and melted from arcing (bad connection). I replaced the bad connectors with crip-on connectors from Radioshack ($2). Incidentally, I bought lifetime supply of high temp wheel bearing grease: one tub for $7... and used about a teaspoon, but hey, that's still cheap. The hardest part was cleaning off the old felt adhesive, I used nail polish remover to soften the old glue and scrapped of 80% with a screw driver... good enough! I held the new felt on with duct tape until the glue dried. I suggest watching the installation video for the rear bearing replacement I found on this website. It showed me where the screws are and the trick for lifting up the back of the tub using the belt to disengage the rear bearing. It was a snap.
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