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PartSelect Number PS1148434
This 87-3/4" long dryer drum belt goes around the dryer drum and the pulley to rotate the drum once motor is activated.
This part works with the following brands: Frigidaire, Gibson, Kelvinator, Kenmore, Tappan & White-Westinghouse.
This part fixes the following symptoms:
1.Removed access panel on back of machine in order to place a block under the drum(see step 3).2. Removed the top (clips), 3.removed the front panel(clips), block placed under drum earlier prevents drum from tilting and makes removing front panel with door very easy.4. Slipped new belt on. 5.Replaced front panel and removed block under drum. 6. Aligned belt and checked movement of drum, 7. attched belt to pulley on motor and positioned belt tensioner.8. Installed top and access panels.This repair is very straight forward, block under drum makes things easy, since the drum stays level when the front panel is removed and replaced.
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Were these instructions helpful?
First, I popped the two clips that hold on the top. Then, I removed two screws and unplugged a few wire connectors to remove the front panel. I scraped off the felt, which was rubbing the drum since the white plastic glides had worn completely through. I applied the high-temp adhesive liberally, laid on the new felt, and applied some spring clamps to hold it in place. I removed the small back panel to replace the belt, which was really easy with the dryer apart. The 7-year-old original belt was a little cracked.
First of all, I LOVE Partselect.com.. The parts are reasonable, and arrive in a timely fashion.. The repair stories are far and away, one of the BEST features of this website - so hats off to the DIY'ers who have helped me overcome my challenges and helped me stay in the ..ahem.. "favorable" graces of my wife.. I need all the help I can get there.. Anyway, read the other repair stories first - LOTS of great insight.. I only have a couple pointers to add - below...This is easily my 4th appliance repair project with Partselect.com, and I can say without a doubt that the experience has been positive every single time.. Until now.. I got the dryer torn down and realized that I SHOULD have ordered the SEAL-BASKET LOWER felt with my original order. When I inspected it for my list of parts to order, the upper glide was thrashed - no brainer.. I thought the lower felt was fine.. d'oh! I discovered this morning that I was wrong.. So, I JUST ordered the lower basket seal for *next* weekend.. (If you are gonna replace the original upper glide, replace the lower basket seal as well..) It'll be a slam dunk, though..Now, for a couple useful tips:If you are a car guy, get out your trusty can of brake parts cleaner to help clean off the old adhesive residue after you rip off the old upper glide felt. I also used a 1" plastic scraper to help facilitate removal, but the brake parts cleaner was a Godsend. I think I read someone else's suggestion to use "goof off" or whatever - but I couldn't find mine, so..... ...out came the brake cleaner... :) two thumbs up. Just use it sparingly - all those solvents are bad for children in California for some odd reason..Spring loaded clamps to hold the felt down as the glue dries are also "nice to have". I used one on each end of the felt, and one for each of the teflon / plastic glides.. Finally - milk this job for all it's worth - it'll only take you 45-60 minutes or so... good luck...!!!
Found instructions, correct except for 2 screws at the bottom of the kickplate, which turned out to be 2 philips head screws at top holding control panel to case. Would advise using gloves when holding drum, because front and rear lips are very sharp. This is the second time drum guide and lower basket seal where replaced. First time was in 2006. Saved a bunch of money by doing repair myself. If I had to pay for service call and parts replacement I probability considered replacing unit rather than repair.
Removed back panel. Popped off top of dryer, then removed front of dryer. Slid belt onto tumbler, put front cover back on, put top back on and adjusted belt frombottom panel cover.
i removed two screws that hold the top of the dryer on at the back of the dryer then i removed a couple of screws that hold the front of the dryer on at the top of the front then i disconnected the two wiring connecters inside the front and a ground wire when the belt came i put it around the drum and took two screws out on the back of the dryer near the floor that hold a small panel in place to access the motor i put the belt on the motor and idler wheel and that was it put together and done
I disassembled the dryer using instructions from the following website for White Westinghouse (pictures really helped)After removing the drum, I first noticed that the grouding ball was sitting on the bottom of the dryer (along with much lint). I then saw that the bracket for bearing support cup and the bearing support cup were both worn well past use. The bracket had been worn down about 1/4" to the SE with matching wear on the bearing support cup. There was a hole in the bottom of the bearing support cup (hence the grouding ball on the floor of dryer).I installed the new idler pulley assembly and completely vacuumed out the dryer (I didn't know lint could get so stiff!). I installed the new parts from the kit once received (and the new belt bought previously) and the dryer works great. I'm so used to the obnoxious squealing that it seems odd to be so quiet.The internet is a magnificent thing!
Appearances can be deceiving.....while dis-assembly was a piece of cake; the problem turned out to be failed welds on the dryer drum. REMEMBER this before you make a parts decision. Examine the problem.FIRST! (this comeing from a guy who used to Manage an appliance repair shop WAY back in the day....DUH!)Solution?....new dryer; repair cost too high. None the less...at least I have a spare belt !!!
My dad and I followed the video instructions and it was easy! No more ear piercing noise! I did find that once we took the front of the dryer off there was a lot of lint! Never thought to clean the front of the dryer out!The video was a great way to see exactly what you needed to do, just follow what they say and you will have no problems!
I followed the instructions on previous posts. The only problem I had was trying to remount the drum to the bearing unit which sits in the back of the driver. I just couldn't get the three holes lined up for the screws until I finally laid the dryer on its back, and then presto! - it went together in seconds.This project probably took me longer than most people because I'm always looking things over and a little cautious in my work. I never realized how simple a dryer system is until I had dismantled this one. I spent $38 to fix my dryer rather than buy a new one. $10 of that was for the belt which I changed only because I was in there. Parts from partselect.com arrived 48 hours after ordering, and I used their basic shipping.
The dryer was heating but the drum would not turn. We opened it up to see what the problem was. As soon as we opened it, we saw the belt was broken. I ordered a new one and after two trips to the laundromat I was ready to get the dryer fixed. That weekend we tackled the job. First I did a Google Search on Westinghouse dryer repair, found several ....one with a video:-) Punched in our model number and they went through the whole procedure....while it took them only 10 minutes, we took a little longer. But they had great ideas how to hold the drum while repairing, etc. Being recently laid-off this was a fantastic find. I have no idea how much a service call would be on the dryer nor could I afford a new one at this time.... Great old American Know How got it done.
After pulling out and unplugging my machine I followed the procedure already worked out by others. I bought and replaced all the parts that were listed as involved with this problem, since I only wanted to do this once and the parts were pretty cheap. The only slightly hard part was reconnecting the drum to the bearing, this could be easier with a third hand.Everything went well and the dryer works fine.
My Son-in law did the repair. He removed the top, the front lower panel and finally the front panel with the door. It took a little more time than anticipated because there was not any explicit directions on how much to remove to replace the belt, but he got the job done and put it back together very quickly. Glad I have him to help when needed:).
Got the belt for my little bro's dryer . . . he and a friend tore into it without looking on how to do the job . 2 hours later dryer apart not fixed . . . LoL . . . Next day I get a Call asking me to find a repair manuel . . . I laught and told him to go to Youtube on his phone and the video would tell him how to do it ! He is back up and drying . . . Moral to this story . . . look before you leep !
Tip: After pre-taping the threads on the ball shaft, use painter’s tape to hold it in place while you attach the screws. Do the same with the bearing retainer. Don’t use tape that will leave a residue when you remove it or your clothes will smell like adhesive. Tip for stacker dryer: There is no need to remove the wires connected to the front panel. Swing the panel around to the side. Put a small bungee cord through the door opening and attach it firmly to the top of the dryer. Make sure the cord carries all the weight and that there is no strain on the wires.
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