ZISW480DRH General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I took off the front cover of the icemaker assembly and found that the gears were not meshing properly and therefore slipping. I removed the front panel and found that the white plastic cam unit under the large gear wheel had disengaged from the hole in the front plate which is why the gears were slipping. I refitted the cam and wheel and it worked fine but stopped again for the same reason the next day. As the plate appeared to be buckled somehow (not user repairable) and, as the unit was leaking and pooling water (which froze) in the collection unit, I decided to change the whole icemaker.

Ordered about 1300 on a Thursday, it arrived the next day at noon and was fitted straight away. As others have mentioned, the extension cable required to fit into my old fridge made it quite cumbersome however with a bit of juggling and persuasion, I got it to fit into the cut out corner of the ice container so it is completely out of the way. Job done in about 35 minutes, making ice in an hour.

Followed instruction video to replace flapper,dispenser door recess crank and torsion spring. Turns out all these parts were good, however the solenoid valve was crusted with rust. Remved valve and cleaned plunger with knife,sandpaper and wd40. Wala everything is back to normal.

The repair was fast and easy,the vidio you sent gave me the confidence I needed to tackle it.Thanks so much!

Your Video really made it easy, showing the actual replacment of the part. However I did have one problem, which was I could not unplug the panel just by pulling on the plugs. A locking catch is on each plug so I just moved the panel out of the way.

Water line to outlet water dispenser was frozen half way up the inside of freezer door. I scotch taped a bunch of plastic grocery bags on the interior left water dispenser door.I closed door with bags attached to inside door. I waited fifteen minutes and water was flowing again! First take off plastic coupler at bottom of front of refrigerator. Push plasic cup dispenser back, if water comes out of plastic tube at bottom front of refrigerator, then water valves are ok (if making ice is ok too). if light comes on at dispenser switch is ok also.

Follow instruction on the video you provided

Easy, with included video and instructions

1. Removed and tested defrost heater, tests good. 2. Reinstalled defrost heater. 3. Removed and tested defrost over-temperature sensor, tests good. 4. Reinstalled over-temperature sensor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 5. Removed the control printed circuit board and checked for blown fuse's, fuse's are all good. 6. Removed the defrost relay from the printed circuit board using soldering iron, bench tested the relay, it is good. 7. Soldered defrost relay back onto the circuit board, and reinstalled control board. 8. Removed and bench tested evaporator thermistor, the resistance is out of specification, ordered new thermister. 9. Installed new thermistor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 10. Re-assembled refrigerator. 11. Installed temperature monitoring and recording instrumentation for 72 hour test. The defrost cycle is running correctly with a defrost termination temperature of around 90 deg-f. The defrost cycle ran twice while running the 72 hour test. 11. Removed test instrumentation and Put the unit back into service, The thermistor was the culprit. I bought the right part on the first shot, nice.

I removed the lower panel on the back of the Refridgerator. Then looking to the left ,Identified the Valve. I then removed the retaining screw from the valve allowing me to remove the water tubing and electrical connections. Installation was reverse proceedures. It is very easy !

The video on the GE site was great. Showed step by step instructions on how to remove the old ice maker and install the new one. Also helpful was the detail on the water chute which needed to be moved from the old ice make to the new one. Saved hundreds of dollars by not having to have a repairman do this work for me.

I had a problem with no water flowing and the inlet for the ice maker would freeze. I check the solenoids on the blue valves for resistance and found the water one was open so I replaced the valve. I now had water flowing out the valve and the ice maker did not freeze but I still did not have water. I had to hook a hair dryer up to the water line at the freezer door control panel and let it run for a while then blew it out with compressed air. The water line must have also froze inside the freezer door some place.

Removed ice select control unite from freezer by removing 3 nut screws holding unite in place. Disconnect 2 electrial plug ins.Remove unite from freezer and place on table for easy work space. Remove 4 nut screws holding Solenoid & Arm. Replace with new Solenoid & Arm. Reinstall back in freezer and now we have cube ice again.

Ironically I did this today, as this email request came up asking how it went. I'm not a repairman, I'm a software engineer, and I can't thank this site enough for the step by step videos. With the video to help, this was a breeze, I was nervous as I had to empty all my freezer out onto the living room floor. Once that was done the repair took about 30 minutes. Thank you partselect!!!!! My second time doing business here, and I'll be coming back (well, if something breaks, so let's hope I don't have to).

I watched the Video on partselect website for replacing the Solenoid. The repair went smooth. No problem.

Replaced all the sensors in both the feezer and refrigerator.Even though it colder now it still is not cold enough.Freezer won't freeze items but is cold and refrigerator still not real cold