YWED9550WW2 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

Disconnect the power cord. Unhook the dryer vent hose. Remove the back. Find the Thermal Fuse. Use a ratchet and socket to remove socket head screw that holds the Thermal Fuse in place. Disconnect one of the two wires from the old Thermal Fuse and attach the wire to the new Thermal Fuse ensuring the wire is placed on the same end of the new Thermal Fuse as the old Thermal Fuse. Repeat procedure for the remaining wire and screw Thermal Fuse back in place. Replace the back, reattach the dryer vent hose and connect the power cord.

Repair was extremely easy. I looked on your parts web site and found my model number, read what the common causes of dryer not heating. I purchased both the Thermistor which I knew was bad after using my Omh meter and found a open circuit, and bought the High limit thermostat as maintenance. In addition to these parts I also purchased the heat element assembly which I could see was broke. In stalling all three parts was less than 15 minutes, less than $100 and WOW less than two days delivery !!! Great job I will re-order from you again! KIm Faught, League City, Texas

unplugged unit, removed the back panel replace thermo fuse and replace back panel, plugged electric cord back in and we were back in business. real easy fixx

I followed the video on the website, removing the back of the dryer, then located and removed the thermal fuse, replaced it with the new one..... Presto, it worked... Replaced the back of the dryer and was good to go... Thank you Part Select

replaced thermo fuse. not the problem. not sure how to test for next step. timer, cycler tumbler all work just won't fire up.

took the back panel off by unscrewing all the little nuts..replaced thermal fuse and put back panel and screws back on...

Determined via multimeter that either the thermostat or thermal fuse were not working, so ordered the kit (best value, contains both parts).Easiest access is from the rear, so removed rear panel and top of dryer (required) and also the vent tube since it was in the way. Unhooked wires from both parts, used socket to remove nuts holding each one on, put new ones in place, re-attached wires. Replaced vent tube, vacuumed entire inside of dryer (good idea). Put back/top back on and the dryer worked/heated perfectly immediately.

Six(6) screws were removed to separate the front and rear sections of the dryer door to get access to the rear of the catch.Pliers were used to maneuver the catch through the opening in the cabinet from the rear. The new catch was easily snapped into the catch opening from the front of the door.

Used wire schematic and locate thermal fuse. Disconnect power and remove rear panel. About 8 screws. Remove the two wires from fuse and check fuse continunity. Fuse was open and prevented power from going to gas solenoids. Replace fuse and clean exhaust ducts. Dirty ducts might have caused fused to over heat.

I went on the PartSelect site and watched some videos to determine what could be wrong. I almost guessed and bought the wrong part as there were a few. I ended up spending $17 for a multi tester. Once I determined that the thermal fuse was bad. I just followed the instructions from the video and replaced it. Took me more time figuring out what part was bad and buying the tester than actually replacing the part. Very glad I bought the multi tester watched the videos. After that it was easy.

Followed video found part son replaced it worked!

From the list of parts that most commonly fail causing the no heat condition I selected the most common part, the heating element. I replaced it according to the instructions on the associated video. It was very simple. Reinstalling a good vent for the dryer took longer. But the new heating element didnt fix the problem. So I replaced the termal fuse which was also very easy but also didn't fix the problem. At that point I decided to replace the dryer. In the process of recovering parts from the old dryer I noted a thin film of lint stuck to the smaller of the two thermostats. So I'd recommend first inspecting and cleaning all of the parts in the parts list before ordering new parts. But then begin with the most common failing part and working down the list. If you have some test equipment like a voltmeter, ohmmeter, or multimeter that would be a plus in isolating faults. Still, I'm a fan of PartSelect and would come here for other parts.

Put new heater in also new thermal fuse. Watched the vidio about install, video longer than repair bryon

I purchased a replacement "Thermistor", "Electrode", and "Door Catch Kit" for my 2002 Kenmore Elite He3 electric dryer. I watched several repair video's but wasn't thrilled with the instructions or the high degree of "remove and replace" of components, just to get the the parts I wanted to replace. I took the top panel off my dryer and removed the troubleshooting guide. It showed that the Thermistor, Electrode, and several other components, could be accessed from the front lower panel. I removed the panel, and then the blower cover (two screws and a clip). This gave me access to the Thermistor. It was a little tight, but I removed the part with little problem. Unfortunately the Thermistor the company sent me for my dryer model was incorrect. Not only would it not seat flush in the oblong hole in the blower housing, but the male electrical connectors were a 16th to an 8th inch too wide for the female connectors on the dryer. I ended up cleaning the old Thermistor and re-installed it. We'll see what happens. The Electrode was no problem, I simply removed the lint cover from inside the dryer (3 screws), and carefully pulled the slack in the wire harness enough to remove the electrical connections from the ends of the Electrode. That could have been done without removing the lower panel, but unless you've done it before, I'd recommend removing it, and the blower cover. It gives a better view of the connections. The electrodes have a small metal catch that holds it in the plastic vent cover. You can see it on the replacement part you'll have before you remove the old one. The door catch's are a no brainer. You can look at the new ones and see how that fit. They also come with well written instructions. Good luck with your repairs.

Exactlyt how your video showed me. I was a bit skeptical, but it was the easiest repair ever.Thank you