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YWED9450WL1 Whirlpool Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the YWED9450WL1
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Lint has been bypassing the lint filter and building up in the fan (and duct)
I noticed that drying time was increasing. I took the covers off the dryer to reach the fan and discovered that the squirrel cage fan buckets were packed with lint, and therefore not moving the air as intended. This was because the original lint filter caught most of the lint, but some bypassed the lint filter and then built up in the fan wheel buckets. The lint bypassed the lint filter because there was no felt gasket on the original filter as far as I can tell. I replaced the lint filter...and the replacement filter includes the felt seal (and fits tightly in the slide). The original lint filter has a provision for the felt seal, but I don't recall ever seeing it (and I did not see remnants of it in the fan or duct). As a matter of fact, I was always suspicious of how loosely the lint filter fit in the slide. The felt seal is not available as a replacement part from Maytag. That said, felt material 3/16"x1/2"x10ft is available from McMaster-Carr...and it fits nicely in the original lint filter.
Parts Used:
Lint Filter
  • David from PINETOWN, NC
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Dryer would not heat
On this model do not try to remove the back. You must remove the bottom front panel and the lint screen unit. You can then loosen the heat coil assembly and rotate it to get to the high-limit thermostat and the thermal unit. I replaced both because I bought the kit. It actually took me longer to clean out lint than it did to replace the parts. A simple remove of the parts with a 1/4 inch nut driver did the trick. Now my dryer works fine.
Parts Used:
High Limit Thermostat and Thermal Cut-Off Kit
  • GARY from PARSONS, KS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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part of door hinge was worn and allowed door to sag
removed door by undoing screws holding it on dryer.
Removed all screws on door EXCEPT the ones with star heads.
Separated two parts of door and undid screws holding hinge in place.
Removed hinge and replaced with new hinge.
Put two faces of door back together and installed door back on dryer.

To be honest and explain, I had previously taken apart the door and removed the star screws which allowed the other pieces of the door holding the window to fall apart.
After some difficulty, I was able to put the seal back on and re-install the metal window holders which is why I said it only took 15 minutes after the part arrived and why I accented NOT removing the star screws.
There were a couple of other screws which probably didn't need removing but they didn't cause any problem with the installation.
After putting the door back on, I had to manually twist the door a small amount because it didn't want to keep the button depressed which kept the motor running which turns the basket and heats the clothes.
The door had been causing some trouble for a couple years and we had obviously closed the door with a little extra force when it ''caught'' on the door frame causing it to bend a small amount.
It only took one adjustment and worked fine after that.
Parts Used:
Door Hinge
  • Barry from ALLEN, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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My dryer stopped heating
The repair was really easy and I loved the DIY videos they were great, not many tools needed to do these repairs that was great. The only thing is this didn't solve my issue.
Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse Heating Element Connection Wire Kit
  • Jennifer from CLINTON, MS
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Dryer was squealing
Disconnected Power cord, removed vent pipe, removed back panel, had to slide top cover off to remove additional screw holding back on. Went down to where the Idler Pulley was, removed old piece by depressing on the spring loaded actuator and slid it off the belt and all. Replaced same as removal.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley
  • Kevin from VALDOSTA, GA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer too hot
I replaced both the thermal fuse and the thermistor at the same time. That seemed to fix the problem; but after a couple of days the dryer would not start. When pushing the Hold to Start button, the dryer just gave one beep and would not start. I did a resistance test on the old thermal fuse, and it was OK; so I put the old thermal fuse back in and the dryer works. Evidently, it was just the thermistor (thermostat, internal bias) that was broken. Both are very easy to change.
Parts Used:
Thermostat, Internal-Bias Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • ALAN from MIDLOTHIAN, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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Loud squealing when the dryer was running...especially on start up.
Simply followed the video that accompanied the part confirmation. Removed the top and front of the dryer. Removed the drum and belt. Unbolted (1 bolt) the Idler pulley and bracket and bolted on the new one. Reversed the sequence of disassembly and tried it out. The only minor difficulty was slipping the belt over the idler pulley after the drum was in place. This is where a second set of hands might be helpful to hold up the drum, while the other person puts the belt in place. Other than that, this was a simple repair and probably saved a couple hundred dollars for about 1.5 hours of my time. Thanks for the video...it was right on point, and made the job much easier.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley with Bracket
  • Anthony from GROVELAND, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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My idler pully was squealing
I removed the bottom access panel, with 2 hands i reached in behind the blower, i released the belt, i used a screwdriver to pop the retainer from the pully spindle, i removed and replaced the pully, i snapped the retainer back on and replaced the belt. I made sure the belt was on track and all was good. I put the bottom panel back on, it took all of 5 minutes. The hardest part was the retainer clip faces the rear of the dryer so you have to feel it. Also , the space is tight, use a smaller flathead screwdriver to get behind the clip, it will pop right off.
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley with Bracket
  • Anthony from SAINT CLOUD, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
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No Gas Heat
I did what any novice would have done. I took the entire thing apart to get to the gas jet. I did not know about the thermal fuse until I got to the schematic behind the timer and controls. I was a tech back in the 70's and 80's and only worked on electric dryers. Back then I would remove the heater core and twist the coils together to save money. So I had no idea how a gas dryer heating unit worked. So now any one that reads this. You do not have to take the dryer completely apart, I did that for all of you. Just replace the thermal fuse on the back of the unit by unplugging that wires and removing the screws! It looks like a long white piece of plastic with 2 wires to it. You will find this under the full metal shield on the back of the unit. This should be about a 1 hour repair at the most!
Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • Debra from Springfield, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Very Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Whirlpool Gas dryer, run but no heat
I simply removed the rear panal of the dryer. Removed the two wires from the fuse at the rear of the dryer. Attached an OEM meter across the two fuse connections and had no continuity. Ordered a new fuse and recieved it in 2.5 days.Replaced the fuse,reconnected the wires and replaced the rear panal. Started dryer and it now blows hot air and runs like new. I can't say enough about PartSelect. Great diagnosis using their website, the delivery was fast and I recieved the correct part at a good price. Very satisfied, Thanks PartSelect. Fred F
Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • Fred from Macomb, MI
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver
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Dryer would shut off mid way through cycle and give an E1 error code
After turning off the power to the dryer I removed two screws to the bottom front panel and droped it out of the way. I remved three screws hloding the lint screen in place just for better axcess to the element. I then removed the two wires attached to the element and then the two screws holding the element in place. I put everything back together in reverse. I also took the time to clean any dust and lint out.
Parts Used:
Thermostat, Internal-Bias
  • Dwayne from Bainbridge, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Socket set
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Dryer would not start.
I watched the video or I would have likley just called a repair man. It took longer to clean behind the dryer than to install the new thermal fuse. After taking the back off the dryer is was as simple as changing a fuse. Dryer works like new for about $20 bucks and we avoided the hasle of getting a repair man, especially since we live in the country. Thanks for having a web site that is so easy to use and full of good information.
Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • MONA from SHAMROCK, TX
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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dryer wasnt heating up, though it would run
Removed the dryer's back panel and took a look. Had no idea what to do next, so I read up on it. Partselect was extremely helpful to me, the exploded views with the part numbers called out were particularly helpful. So I determined it was the thermal fuse. Unscrewed the screw holding in the fuse and disconnected the electrical supply. New fuse went in really easily. Job took a lot longer than it had to cause since I was in there, I cleaned out the dryer really good.

Why the fuse blew was interesting: had an extension cord routed over the dryer, well it was situated such that it caused the timer knob to bind up. Apparently, the dryer ran all night because of this and blew the fuse. So don't obstruct the knob or you will be replacing a thermal fuse!
Parts Used:
Dryer Thermal Fuse
  • Chris from st louis, MO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers
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Dryer was very loud and sounded like it was scraping
Took the back and top off of my front loader. I had checked on you tube for the problem and how to fix it and ordered the part. Just followed the directions on how to remove the old idle pulley and installing the new one. Dryer runs like new!
Parts Used:
Idler Pulley with Bracket
  • Annde from JEFFERSON CTY, TN
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
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dryer blowing cold air
replaced heating element
Parts Used:
Dryer Heater Element
  • Arpad from LOVELAND, CO
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
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All Instructions for the YWED9450WL1
76 - 90 of 615