Removed the two screws under the lint trap Opened the top (had to use flathead screwdriver to release latches) Disconnected door switch harness from front panel Removed 2 screws holding front panel on dryer Lifted out dryer drum (previous belt had broken) Vacuumed inside of dryer (found $3 in quarters!) Put new belt around drum Put drum back in dryer, using empty laundry soap bottle to support its weight Looped belt around pulley and motor; secured pulley to dryer bottom Made sure rear gasket thingy was aligned properly and drum turned freely Put front panel back on Re-attached door switch Closed top and put screws back in under lint trap Fired it up - WOOHOO!
Unplug dryer from receptial. Poped top off, useing thin bladed screw driver to push tintion springs, while pulling up on lid. removed two no 10 sheet metal screws, useing 1/4 nut driver, this removes loading door by pulling uo 1/4 inch. Removed twi NO 10 sheet metal screws useing 1/4 nut driver, removed front carrage system. Removed belt then tub. Removed idler arm spring useing plires, used 5/8 inch socket removed sholder bolt with arm. Reverced procedure with one execption. Used two by four to hold tub up so belt could be put on, rolled tub to alline belt. Not bad for 70 Years young. Curtiss
I raised the top of the dryer, removed the front, the belt and the drum. Slipped off old rollers, installed new ones and new tensioner. Reinstalled drum and belt, bolted front back on and closed the top.
When using the dryer the cycle would stop and display E1 as the reason
Unscrewed the bottom panelof the dryer and located the thermistor through the schematic for my machine. Removed the old one and put the new one in the same way. No more E1 problems and all cycles now complete themselves.
Used putty knife to release catches on dryer top. Removed two screws in Lint Filter cover. Used Nut driver to remove the screws holding the front on. Removed the drum and had easy access to all the parts I was having trouble with. I believe the real problem was the Idler pulley but since I was already there I replaced the drum rollers also. While drum was out I vacuumed the inside of the cabinet. After parts were replaced i put everything back together in reverse order. Very Easy
Half of my pulley was broken off so there were no wrench flats to take it off. I was able to remove it using Channel Locks and the 7/16 wrench shown in the video.
Hint: Use a one gallon ice cream bucket to hold up the drum while connecting the belt. It makes it much easier and gives you more clearance.
I'm still waiting on my idler pulley. It arrived at Fed EX depot in Tracy CA on December 14th and has still not been shipped. So it is pretty fucking hard for me to install it! Maybe if you had customer service that would answer their phones or reply to my Emails would be helpful
I was reluctant to call a repair service. Typically when an appliance is as old as my dryer (14 years old), service people encourage you to replace, not repair. I had replaced the dryer's motor within the last 5 years and believed my dryer still had life to it. At first, I tried cleaning the lint build up from the dryer cavity and hoses. This worked but only for a couple of days. After reading other successful repair stories on the website, I decided to try replacing the thermal fuse. It was so easy. The part was easily identifiable. It was just a little hard to yank off the connecting wires. Good as new and no service call.
I looked at the parts breakdown to see how it cam apart.
I tore the dryer down, 1. removed the door 2. openned the top 3. removed front panel 4. removed fron bulkhead 5. removed belt and drum 6. removed back cover 7. removed the ductwork 8. removed the fan (this is the hardest part, it is very tight on the motor with left hand threads, there are flats on the (inside of the dryer)fan where the motor shaft goes into the fan for a wrench and you can put a socket on the front pulley on the motor. I ended up just knocking the center out of the fan and replacing it. 9. removed the motor and cleaned the entire unit 10. reinstalled everything in reverse order. Note:I went ahead and replaced the idler pulley and the rear wheels that support the drum, and put a new belt in (just about everything that could fail) I spent about $200 to keep a $1200 dryer in service at least another 7 years.
Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you
My 80 series Kenmore dryer wouldn't start so I looked online for a solution to the problem. One of the sites I found stated that the problem could be as simple as a thermal fuse if other potential issues could be ruled out. I ordered the part on a Monday from PartSelect with standard FedEx ground shipping - stated it could be 3-5 business days. To my amazement, the part arrived the next day! Awesome!!! I watched the video on the PartSelect site to make sure I knew how to fix it, then followed the easy instructions. All I needed to do was use the nutdriver to remove the back cover from the dryer, unplug the two wires going into the thermal fuse, remove the old fuse, and pop the new one in. Then I just plugged the wires into the new fuse, replaced the cover and voila, the dryer worked like a champ! Thank you PartSelect for saving me a needlessly high repair bill!!