YMEDZ600TW2 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Dryer was making intermittent squealing noises sometimes it was amazingly loud, sometimes not so bad. Still, I figured this couldn't be good so I wanted to find a fix. Read the stories here and everything pointed to the 'idler pulley', so I figured I'd give it a try. For me, access was the hardest part -- my laundry room is small and I can't easily get the dryer out or move it around. Not a problem with the part, just my own setup. Important to note that this repair is best done through the BACK of the unit, not the front. Once I got access to the back (removing AC and Water used for the 'steam dry feature') I also had to disconnect several of the electrical connectors to get the unit fully apart. Good news -- the actual replacement of the pulley took about 1 minute! It was just all of the moving and disassembly that took so long. The original idler pulley had worked its way off of the shaft and was out of place and causing the squealing. All is well now, and I saved a bunch by doing it myself. No more squealing!

Ordered the fuse first hoping it was just that simple, watched the video for how to replace, first step was to take the back of the dryer off, well I order to take the back off I had to take off the Electrical Cord, as well as he top of the dryer. Only to find out he part I was replacing was not back there. Found the tech sheet attached within he dryer though, and as it turns out only needed to take he front bottom panel off. Without testing he continuity I was just giving this a shot, the Thermal fuse did no fix it, so I tried the high Limit Thermostat and Fuse kit still no luck. Took out the Element to find I was physically cracked in 2 pieces, replaced that and I was back up and running. And all parts were found in the bottom front panel of the dryer, so beware before you watch the video and take our whole dryer apart like I did.

First tried repairing the old idler by cleaning and lubricating the shaft. That lasted for about a week but the squealing returned. Ordered the part and had it in a few days. Replaced the idler wheel and it's been quietly running like new for several weeks now. Now wife thinks I'm Superman.

I needed a schematic to know exactly where the heating element was located and to be sure of what the part looked like. I found the part and after watching the video on removing and installing the heating element decided to replace the High Limit Thermostat and fuse as well. I also read some of the other reviews. The part arrived in 2 days and I did have a little help removing the old one before the parts arrived. Since the dryer was ready for the new parts when they arrived, the install was easier. I had a little trouble balancing the flashlight to see well enough and realized it was easier to put the element in then reinstall the unit, it was a little tricky getting the element sleeve back into the slot, THEN screw the thermostat and Thermal fuse onto the element housing. Since everything was open, I vacuumed all the lint out that I could, hooked up the vent hose, plugged the unit in and pressed the button. I then basked in the glow of a working heating element and I was back in business!. Thanks for the video and help. I LOVE PartSelect.

Replaced Lint Screen

Had previously replaced the heater coil (purchased from PartSelect) and fixed the no heat problem. Should have taken advice given on this site and replace the thermostat and thermal fuse kit at that time. Since I knew how to remove the assembly it was easier this time. Just remove, unscrew the two parts and replace with the new ones. Reattach the wires and reinstall the assembly and it is now working again. Also vacumed the inside and trimed and replaced the exhast vent hookup for less restriction.

After trying to follow a very detailed description by another consumer, we googled our washer and found a site that showed step by step direction that took us through removing all panels and getting to the bellow easily. Not removing the proper panels, we found was making the job hard!I believe the site was applicance services...very helpful! Step by step literally!!Cost of parts through parts select reasonable.

This did not require a "repair", just a replacement. I want to say that the response time and ease of ordering were very good. I would not hesitate to use PartSelect again when needed. Thank you!

pulled out old lint filter. Put in new lint filter.

1) Unplug dryer from wall. 2) Remove bottom panel on front of dryer below door. There are 2 screws. You will need a 1/4" nut driver. 3) Remove 2 screws (same size) holding the clip in place at the front of the element housing. Then remove clip. 4) Pull housing and element forward. Will take some twisting and angling to get it out. 5) Make a diagram showing which wires go to what terminals. Then pull wires from terminals. (Now would be a good time to remove lint and trash or in my case that bank card I lost last year from bottom of dryer.) 6) Remove screw holding coil inside housing and pull coil from housing. Use pliers and some muscle. 7) Install new coil and replace wires, housing, and panel doing this process in reverse. For internal bias thermistor, while front panel is off, find the part inside. It is toward the center near the front of the dryer. There are 2 wires and 2 screws 1/4" hex heads. Remove wires, remove screws, and replace.

Disconnected the power and duct from the dryer. Removed the back and top of the dryer by removing the 1/4" screws. Created slack in the belt by compressing the spring and moving the idler arm.Slid the belt off the pulley. Removed the tri-ring clip, slid the old pulley and gasket off. Cleaned and inspected the shaft and vacuumed the inside of the dryer. replaced the gasket, pulley and tri-ring clip. Replaced the top and back of the dryer. Connected duct and power.

The repair was easy and very simple. With nut driver removed front cover. Noted the wiring set up and removed. Lifted heat tunnel up and pulled it from the case. Removed the old heating element and install new one. Reinstalled the heat tunnel reconnected the wires. Slide tunnel back into position. Replaced screw and you are done. I always pray and ask Jesus for his help and things always go well.

Push new catch in the opening, close the door and VOILA! the door stays closed. Please note that the cost of this part is exorbitant- it's worth about 50 cents but with shipping it cost about $11.00. Check your local hardware store first.

Unplugged unit. Took off the lower kick plate took the old element out and put the new one in. Works great.

I was afraid I had to go in from the back panel, undo a million little bolts, after pulling the whole thing out far enough to get behind the dryer. Not so! I watched the installation video. I cannot get to the 220 plug easily so I turned of the switch at the breaker box. I opened the small panel on the front of the dryer under the dryer door. Loosened one bolt on a cover guard to expose the element. Unplugged the connection to the element and easily pulled out old part. Slipped in the new part, reconnected the little plug connections, closed cover panel.! Voila! Done! My Husband was amazed that I was done & we were ready to go again & my grand kids cheered for me!! 15 minutes or less instead of hours.