YKDSS907SS03 KitchenAid Range - Instructions

I went online and discovered the repair method and schematic of the range. I removed the spark module after first removing the upper rear panel cover and replaced with the new part module ordered from your company and now the spark module operates all the gas elements when they are turned on thus lighting the gas burners. My mother in law was thrilled, as she had been using matches and burning her finger tips,since the original range part malfunctioned. The only problem was the small screw from the original installation was not long enough , so it required some changes to get it affixed to the cabinet side.Thanks for the reasonable price and the right part for the job!!

Very simple. I removed two screws holding the oven in place. Slid oven out onto the kitchen floor - it doesn't really weigh that much. I then removed about a dozen screws holding the back panel in place. I removed the back panel, disconnected the thermostat by unscrewing a single screw and pulled the defective part from the connectors. I then installed the new thermostat, screwed the back panel back on, slid the oven back into place and re-secured with the two screws. Voila! Repair done. The whole procedure took about 15 minutes and was not difficult at all.

Getting at the part was difficult. The top and both side panels had to be removed to reach the blower. Once they were off, it was fairly easy to swap out the blower. The repair guy wanted $140 for the part and $160 to insall. I did it myself for $94! If you do it yourself, keep a good record of what screws came from where as you go. This makes re-assembly much easier.

Everything worked perfectly---thanks to the suggestion of your call center agent. She suggested that since the replacement door handles were no longer available, I should consider repainting them--it worked like a charm. Please tell her she was a life saver. We rent that house in Fl and my returning tenants had complained about the discoloring refer handles. Thank you

Pull it away from the wall and take everything off the back. Unscrew the element cover, cut through the insulation and remove the part. Not easy, watch for sharp sheet metal edges

Open oven dooor. With a philip screw driver remove the gasket plate at the bottom of the oven holding the seal gasket. pull seal gasket away from oven seal channel and clean surface before installing new seal. align seal pins to to seal channel holes be sure not to twist the seal insert pins in one at a time.Install lower bracket however you may want to wet the fray ends of the seal gasket prior to screwing in plate to keep the ends from moving away from the bracket when scrwing it in place.

Our double-oven is wall-mounted, so accessing the backside to change the wires (as shown in the instruction video) was not a practical do-it-yourself option. After turning off the circuit breaker and disconnecting the broken broiler element, it is pretty easy to pull the four connection wires through the backside of the oven, which allowed us to disconnect the slide clips. We attached twist-ties to each clip/wire before disconnecting to keep the clips/wires from pulling back behind the oven wall when moving the new element into position. We found it necessary to crimp a few clips onto the new element to make secure connections, but the rest of the project went pretty much as shown in the video and the new element works great.

Had a technician from Home Advisor to check the problem out with my Whirlpool Double oven(1 1/2 old). Paid $60 to find the problem. According to the technician problem was control board and cost of labor and parts $465.00
Jumped on Part Select website, placed a question with my stove problem through the chat. Immediately they answered my question and told me the problem was the Terminal Block. Cost of part and shipping $25.00. Replaced it myself and everything works fine.
Thank you, Thank you Part Select for your help and honesty.

Sincerely
Peter from Maryland

Removed back of oven. Disconnected 2 connectors on each side of element. Removed screws that were too rusted to use screwdriver with vise grips. Removed old element, inserted new element through holes in rear of oven.Installed 1 screw on each side of element in rear and 2 screws in front where brackets support the front of the element.Put back panel back on. Push oven back in place, plug back in outlet.It works great and I didn't have to pay service man.

Removed back upper cover, unscrewed retaining screw from module. As noted in a comment from another do-it-yourselfer, I replaced screw with a longer one and reinstalled module. Note that the replacement part is not exactly the same as the old one(the wires are located differently), I noted the wire color codes with the slot number and reinstalled them in the same slot number. Works fine.

There were 4 screws to remove and 2 wires to disconnect. We placed the order on line for replacement. It arrived the next day. We simply installed the new element by connecting the 2 wires (very easy) and putting the 4 screws back in place. It works like new and was sooo easy.

We replaced the part. It was pretty quick and easy to install.

The Youtube videos for this particular repair, using part number PS11747304, indicated that the whole oven unit should be pulled out of the wall while working on it, and the electrical clips removed and re-attached from the back.

Because I was doing this as a one-man job, and didn't have anything to place the oven on while working, I turned off the circuit breaker, and performed the entire element replacement from the front.

1. I was very careful after unscrewing the 4 mounting screws (two in the back, two on the top) to gently pull the attaching wires while still attached to the old element.

2. I had 4 mini vice-grips that I clamped (gently) on the insulation of the 4 wires before detaching them from old element. The vice grips prevented the wires from disappearing to whence they came.

3. After completing the old element removal, I replaced it with the new element, attaching each wire where they had been attached to old element, only then removing the corresponding vice grip.

4. With all 4 wires reattached, I carefully pushed the element ends back into the back of the oven... also avoiding the protruding temperature sensor. The element needed to be held in place by hand until the first overhead screw could be re-screwed.

5. The most difficult part of the procedure was actually getting the screws to line up with their holes in the oven body. .. Returning the screws in fact took about half the 30 minutes the whole job took, because their alignment wasn't "keyed" such that the holes easily just lined up. My order was "Top right" - "Back Left", "Top Left", "Back Right".

Once the 4 screws were all satisfactorily tightened back in place, I turned the breaker back on, and hit the pre-heat function on the oven... It smoked a very little (my hands may have been a bit oily) but that quickly dissipated, and the job was complete. I am very thankful that I didn't have a professional come out. My baker wife has used the oven 10-20 times since then, and it seems as good as new.

Removed oven door for easy access. Removed 4 phillip head screws that held broiler element from top of oven. pulled wires a couple of inches out from back of oven and used flat screw driver to help separate the wires connecting the broiler from the oven. Did the opposite to install the new element,.
The best part of this operation was the fact that the part arrived from Part Select by Fed X the next day after ordering it all for a shipping cost of $8.75. Great Service Highly recommend Part Select.

So, the F9 error indicates a electrical power issue. First I pulled the oven out and verified I had 240 volts at my outlet.

Then I removed the fire panel over the terminal block and the issue was apparent. The nuts on the terminal block were corroded. This had cause the resistance in the connection to raise and burn up the wire to my oven plug at the terminal block.

I removed the whole back panel and everything else seemed OK visually.

1. I go new connectors for the oven plug, stripped the wires, and crimped on the new connectors.

2. The terminal block DOES NOT come with the nuts to connect the wire to the terminal block. Mine were so corroded they had to be replaced. So I went and purchased the correct ones and installed the terminal block and reconnected all the wires.

3. I applied some dielectric grease to the connections through out the process of reinstalling to prevent it from happening in the future.