WWSE5240D0WW General Electric Washer - Instructions

replaced circuit board and housing, I have never done this before, but at this time, with the way the Presdent and Congress is taking everthing away, you need to save every penny. So I talked replaced it myself..and saved about $200.00.

Unplugged the unit. Removed water hoses. Removed 4 "star" screws to open control unit cover. Unscrewed assembly with philips screw driver. Unpluged electric plugs. Used pliers to remove internal hose. Removed bad unit which was plugged with hard water corrison. Reverse steps to reinstall. It worked great. Loved the online ordering and shipping direct to my home.

Unplug power. Pull up firmly and quickly from the base of the agitator. Some videos used a rope and 2x4, I didn't have to. The agitator just pops right off. Then with a 7/16" wrench unscrew the bolt while holding on to the coupling. Take agitator coupling off. Clean off metal grooves that the coupling goes on, use either a small screwdriver, metal brush, a knowl, just to make sure you will have good connection with the new coupling. Then install the coupling, new nut, tighten nut firmly. Install agitator pushing down firmly on opposite sides until snaps in place. Turn agitator by hand, it should not free spin. Plug power back in, run washer with water and bleach only in the smallest setting and let it run through its cycle. This will take care of any black debris that might have got into the bowl while fixing. GOOD LUCK!! I also used videos found on Google.

The washing machine was a making a very loud noise when it got to the end of agitation and though it did complete the cycyle it was beginning to snag clothes under the agitator....don't know how. Found that the agitator coupler was cracked in 4 places. Washer is only a year and a half. 4 family washing..so I wanted this fixed quick. The part came super quick..like two days and I was not expecting it for 4 - 10 days...so great and it was cheaper than other places I checked even with paying shipping! I watched the video of installing the coupler--very helpful! I removed the agitator, then removed the agitator coupler....this was already done before the part arrived. When the new coupler arrived, I just had to drop it down onto the spline...there are grooves it must fit to...then I applied the hold down bolt. I used my wrachet/socket to tighten it, but you can use an adjustable wrench. I'm short so reaching down into the washer bowl to get to tighten the bolt was a little ackward..should have used a stool. The loud sound the washer was making before replacing the part stopped and I am back in business...doing ugly washing....LOL! One thing I will mention....nothing to do with the part...but I had without thinking placed the agitator back into the washer bowl....WITHOUT bolting it down..then put the agitator on top of the old coupler. So this made it lock in place under the agitator. My agitator does not have an opening at the top after removing the dust cap inside so there was no way to knock the coupler down and out from the top by putting a long wrench or something down through the top of the agitator(the video shows how to do this also)...sooo....because the agitator coupler locks in place behind moveable clips, I took eight butter knives and wedged them behind each clip on the underside of the coupler pushing each back and was then was able to separate the agitator coupler from the agitator by pulling it forward with my fingers...so don't test putting the agitator over the coupler without first bolting it down! This is all a lot to say about such a small part but this small part is crucial to being able to complete a wash..an ugly wash that is...haha!

Unplugged washer. Shutoff water supplies. Removed control panel. Disconnected wiring to valve. Removed hoses from old valve. Removed valve mounting screws (x2). Installed new valve and secured with mounting screws. Replaced washers in supply hoses and reconnected hoses. Reconnected control wires. Turned on water supplies. Plugged washer into electric outlet. Tested. EVERYTHING WORKING SO FAR!!!

remove the agitator by just pulling it up, remove the bolt that hold the agitator coupling down and install the new one.

Found that the teeth and the agitator coupler hade stripped out. Replaced the coupling and everything worked great. 10 Min and $10. 00 Fixed it up.

There are many on-line videos to help you do this. It's so easy, even a beginner handyperson can do it. For this model, just run a strap under the agitator to assist you in lifting it up off the coupler (good tug). Remove the old worn coupler, put the new one on, set the agitator back on by giving it a little downward push.

The repair was really simple. I pulled off the agitator cap by hand, then put my fingers under the agitator itself. There should be some play in how much the agitator can be lifted up. Some instructions and how-to videos tell you to use a leather belt to remove the agitator but I didn't have a problem removing it with my hands. One quick, hard pull did the trick. Under the agitator, you'll see the agitator coupling, which s held on buy a 7/16" bolt on top. Use a nut driver or a socket to remove the bolt and pull the coupling straight up. Use a wire brush to scrape away all the crud underneath it and on the metal splines. Once the area is reasonably clean, slide the new coupling into place and reattach it with the new bolt that is provided. Line up the grooves in the coupling with the grooves in the agitator and snap it back down into place. Replace the agitator cap and you're all done.

removed agitator unscrewed agitator coupling replaced with new one replaced agitator

First unplug the washer. When changing the tub straps first remove the magnet switch from the lid. There is a tab at the rear of the switch & then you can bring the switch into the washer & then remove the lid assy. This will save the switch. If you do like I did then you will have to install a new switch because the lid fell & broke the switch. Installing the new switch was fairly easy. Push the tab at the rear of the switch in & push the switch up. I cut the two wires about 3 inches from the old switch & then strip the wires. I installed the two butt connectors before putting the switch in the washer. Then crimp the wires to the corresponding colored wires. Put the front back on the washer.

After the GE Washer went dead last week Tuesday while my spouse was doing laundry, I I took it to the back yard just to examine the inside from beneath before going to find a new one that evening.
While on its back I notice that the motor still worked but it was very weak. Taking the belt off it went a little faster but weak. Then I remembered that there was supposed to be an electrical part that sends or allows current to go to the motor, but didn't know the name nor what it should look like.
I started my search and found this cylindrical electric part that had a scar on the outside and a hardened mass protruding from the inside. Since the wires to and from the part was the same color, I marked one terminal, then took pictures of the position and wiring of the part I identified as the problem, then took it out of the machine.
At this point, I went to the car, sat inside, started the car, and was about to leave to find a washing machine, then I thought of the Internet. I went on the Internet, found a store that sells GE washing machines parts, identified the part to be the capacitor. I ordered the part late that evening, received it Thursday afternoon, installed and reassembled the machine immediately, and today is the eight day since the fix and as I am writing, Thursday, August 15, 2013, the machine is doing my laundry. The diagrams made it very easy to identify the name of the part, and since I am mechanically inclined, getting the old part out and installing the new part was very easy. ~~ Vasco

I noticed the agitator would spin all the way around, in each direction. Also, the machine would make no sound, associated with washing, during that part of the cycle. I pulled the fabric softener reservoir off, with fingers on each side of the agitator, i pulled straight up and that gives you access to the coupling. Use a 7/16'" socket to loosen the nut, remove it and pull the coupling off. Press the new coupling on the splined shaft, tighten nut, and line up agitator with the grooves, push it down and replace fabric reservoir. Straightforward repair.

All I did was stick the knob on. How easy was that! Knob works every time. Very pleased with the part.

Took off old agitator, removed coupling that was bad and put new one on.