WWS833ES0 Westinghouse Washer - Instructions

followed on line instructons very easy

Have you spouse take the washer apart and fix it. He did it in no time.I was able to order the parts and have them shipped. They where here in no time Thank you PartsSelect.com

Remove the agitator and the 2 bolts that clamp the spin drum to the shaft and pull up on drum the 2 seals are on the shaft right there. Pry up on the seals to remove them. Install all seals and Be sure to completely clean all parts before putting them back in the machine and re assemble the machine. The bad part of this job is if you have used powdered soap it took 3 hours to clean the parts before reassembly.

The drive block spline was loose in the Agitator, for the now block to fit tight enough to stay in place while reassembly of the Agitator, ( keep falling out) the old block had to be driven out. Had to design a wire tool to hold the block in place until the Agitator could be fitted over the shaft and seated tight on the shaft drive, then pulled the wire out. Wasn't the most easy task to do and sure took more than 5 min. to install.

I took the front and back off the machine. Removed the old pump by taking out a couple of screws. Put the new pump back in and put it back together. Works fine now.

Just pushed the knob on to the metal on-off control,

The swap out difficulty is in getting to the part as a beginner handy man this was a challenge. You may need a second person to make things easy. Another to screw the part from the outside while you hold the part from the inside. However, the real problem was so simple I could kick myself. The COLD WATER PRESSURE WAS TOO STRONG. I simply turned down the cold water pressure some and the washer goes through all it's cycles. I really hope this helps someone else out there before they go buying parts or even a new machine. I did hours of internet research and I didn't come across this simple answer. I changed an electric water valve and a temperature switch before realizing it.

watched the video on website, printed instructions for feedback.

sucked out remaining water with shop vac. took off lower front panel, two screws. took off back panel, six screws. diconnected drain hose from pump,some addittional water drained out, sucked up with shop vac. disconnected tub drain from pump, more water, shop vac. unplugged two wires from back of pump, removed two screws holding pump, removed pump, put in new pump, reversed procedure. Done!

Used a metal cooking spoon to pry open the lid, held it in place with a chain (mentioned in the tools required) and used needlenose pliers to remove the clamp on the old hose assmbly. Transferd that clamp to the new hose assembly and replace the (1) screw holding it in place. Closed the lid of the washer, and now it is like the problm had never existed. (Very easy fix, 1 of 10 on difficulty scale).

replaced it with the new one

One day the washer would spill water out on the floor then it would be fine for a week and do it again.Finally it broke,i ordered the new drain pump and installed it in just a few minutes,Hose clamps were a pain,it works just fine now,I would say replace the clamps while you are doing this ,it would make it much easier .Hope this helps !

This is complicated repair. It requires removing the dryer unit to get access to the water valve. The repair requires 2 people. One to help stabilize the dryer in the removal process and also to hold the dryer on top of the washer once it has been taken loose. The other person does the actual repair. None of the online techs had a clue on how to do this repair. So this was a learn as you go event. First completely disconnect the unit and move it so you have access clear around the unit, as you will need to be able to get on all 4 sides. Now as you face the unit remove the angled cover panel between the dryer and washer. Behind the cover panel is another panel for rigidity, remove it. Slide your hand down the inside of dryer cover panel on the left side. This will also require a flashlight to see what you're doing. Find the 3 hex headed screws that hold the left side on on the washer. DONOT CONFUSE THESE WITH THE SCREWS ON THE OUTSIDE THAT ARE EASY TO GET TO!! There is one at the rear, then one at the center, and one right up against the edge of the front. The one at the front is almost impossible to get at. Remove the front one FIRST. ALSO LOCATE THE 2 EXTRA HOLES BY THE FRONT SCREW BEFORE YOU REMOVE THE SCREW. Cause when you get ready for the reinstall those 2 holes are an issue. If you wait to remove the front last, the dryer unit is no longer stable and it will BITE you. Now go to the right side and repeat the process. Make sure your helper has a good grip on the dryer! Remove the 2 external screws at the rear where they hold the L bracket on, one on each side. Now the 2 of you pick up the dryer and sit it on the washer. There is just enough slack in the lines, wires to accomplish this without having to disconnect any of them. Replace the water valve, this part is a no brainer. Now for the reassembly. Sit dryer back in its proper place on the washer, have your helper hold it securely. Line up the holes. Install BUT DONOT TIGHTEN the rear and center screw on each side. Now attempt to install the front screws. Make sure you get them in their correct holes, the 2 spare holes are not threaded and larger all they do is grab your screw and make you fight to get it back, which can be done. Attach the 2 external screws on the rear. Tighten all the screws now. Reinstall the structure panel on the front, and then the cover panel. Hook up unit and you're done

Took front off and put the new belt on. Then put the front back on. At my Age 70 yrs did good and saved $124.00 Which I paid that 9 months ago.

removed and replaced pump