WU884 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

No tools were needed. The top rack was slid out as far as it could go (no need to remove from the dishwasher) and the utensil basket was removed. Matching the positioning of the other good clips on the upper rack, the new accessory rack pivot clips were snapped into place. The pins on each end of the accessory racks were placed into the pivot holes provided on the clips and pressed into placed. The bottom prong on each clip was then gently pressed upward until it snapped into the groove on the bottom of the clip. The pivot action of each rack was tested. The untensil basket was put back into place and the upper rack was slid back into the dishwasher. Done!

New pump housing filter was needed as the old one was plugged and distorted.

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Since the bimetal repair kit was not available, I bought the complete detergent cup, gasket, and bimetal switch assembly set. This was still far cheaper than paying for a professional repair. All I had to do after shutting off the power is to remove screws to open up the door (door trim/6 screws & 6 screws on the inner side of door edges to remove outer wall of door). The detergent cup assembly is right there for easy access! I unplugged the 2 electric wire plugs to the bimetal switch (paying attention to which plug goes where for when I reassemble), removed the 6 screws that mount the cup assembly, removed assembly and gasket, cleaned the surfaces, and reassembled with the new assembly. Very, very easy to do and everything works like a charm!

my husband took the bottom rack out, unscrewed it where there were screws, lifted up the unscrewed part, took the filter out,cleaned out any gunk, replaced the filter put the part back on, rescrewed it, put the rack back in and it works much better.

1. Removed the four screws to remove the door front.
2. Removed the six screws to remove the detergent cup.
3. Replaced bimetal strip, cam, and spring. (simple task)
4. Replaced gasket and seal.
5. Replaced detergent cup.
6. Replaced door front.

First, I had to remove the outer face panel of the door. Four screws on the inside of the door hold the large panel onto the front. Removing these screws and the panel revealed the detergent cup assembly. There is no need to disconnect the power as long as the door latch is in the open position for this repair. I removed the two wires, blue and white from the leads, keeping note which was attached to which lead. I used a hex head screw driver to remove the 6 screws that hold the detergent cup in place. After removing the detergent cup and gasket, I cleaned the surfaces with a scouring pad to make sure the new gasket would have a good seal. I installed the new detergent cup with the 6 hex screws and re-attached the leads. I replaced the face panel with the four interior screws after running a couple cycles to be sure the problem was fixed, which it was.

Typically when the detergent is not being despensed during the wash cycle, the bi-metal switch is bad (they don't tend to last forever). I took the 4 lower screws out from the inside of the dishwasher door,, unscrewed the bi-metal switch, and screwed in the new switch. I also decided to replace the metal spring for the dish as well, which took the majority of the time. Once you get the idea of how that spring is wound in there, the install goes pretty quickly.

remove 3 screws from either side door edge trim : Note ! panel "notches" are up : remove both original panals plus the cardboard spacer : swap only the old color with the new one and reinstall spacer cardboard and be sure it stays centered : remember panel notches are up : carfully slide the panels over the spacer cardboard while keeping the cardboard centered : becareful panel edges can scratch in the door trim : Note! opposite side door trim can be removed if needed .

Looked into the problem, cleaned the sprayers out to no avail. Looked at drawings of dishwasher and noticed it had a filter. That seemed to be the next easiest thing to check. Removed the lower spray arm with channel locks, then removed the filter housing by removing 6 screw, removed old filter, replaced with new and reversed the above steps for re-assembly.

Piece of cake!

It was either the timer assembly of the Dispenser cup assembly. After looking at the dispenser critically< it appeared that the cam was quite worn. The replacement was accomplished by removing the bottom part of the door (4 screws) and then removing the dispenser cup (8 hex-head screws). If you keep the starter lever to "off" there is not power to the timer and you do not need to disconnect power

Removed four screws that hold front panel. Disconnected two wires, removed six screws, cleaned of old gasket material. Installed new gasket and soap dispenser with six screws. replaced two wires. replace front panel.

My daughter and son removed the old gasket and installed the new one. It went well.

Seemed like I was getting more food stuck on my dishes than cleaned off. Because I've had this problem before, I already knew how to remove the lower spray arm and take off the large white housing beneath the spray arm with a special nut driver (shaped like a star) to get at the parts inside. The white plastic filter that circles the lower sprayer center was totally clogged and bent out of shape and was preventing the spray arm from turning. The microfilters built into the large white housing part that I removed using the special driver were also clogged from years of use. I cleaned the microfilters by agitation in water with lots of vinegar, poked the calcium deposits out of the holes that were clogged in the lower spray arm, and put the whole thing back together with the new plastic filter I bought from this site. Works like new again.

found the parts ordered them an poof dishwasher us as good as new

Followed instructions, those were OK.
Dishwasher front still leaking