WU502 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

I removed the old flange pieces before ordering the new one, then repositioned the washer after attaching the new one to the washer top. I then attached the flange to the counter top resulting in a more stable appliance. It was simple to remove the screws and install the new flange.

Removed two panels on front bottom to gain access to motor and pump pulley.
Looped belt around motor pulley and partially looped belt on larger pump pulley then turned pump pulley together with the belt until belt was fully installed., then coated belt with silicone grease to lubricate it.. very simple procedure.

One note of precaution, UNPLUG power plug before working on appliance.

No tools were needed. The top rack was slid out as far as it could go (no need to remove from the dishwasher) and the utensil basket was removed. Matching the positioning of the other good clips on the upper rack, the new accessory rack pivot clips were snapped into place. The pins on each end of the accessory racks were placed into the pivot holes provided on the clips and pressed into placed. The bottom prong on each clip was then gently pressed upward until it snapped into the groove on the bottom of the clip. The pivot action of each rack was tested. The untensil basket was put back into place and the upper rack was slid back into the dishwasher. Done!

Since the bimetal repair kit was not available, I bought the complete detergent cup, gasket, and bimetal switch assembly set. This was still far cheaper than paying for a professional repair. All I had to do after shutting off the power is to remove screws to open up the door (door trim/6 screws & 6 screws on the inner side of door edges to remove outer wall of door). The detergent cup assembly is right there for easy access! I unplugged the 2 electric wire plugs to the bimetal switch (paying attention to which plug goes where for when I reassemble), removed the 6 screws that mount the cup assembly, removed assembly and gasket, cleaned the surfaces, and reassembled with the new assembly. Very, very easy to do and everything works like a charm!

Just as everybody explained, 4 screws for the door panel, 6 screws for the dispenser, out and in, 15 minutes!!! There are plenty of screws on the door but, once i knew i was looking for 4 screws, it was a cinch!!! Thanks for that tip. All my appliances are the same age so i 'll be back to this site again!!

First, let me say that the parts arrived really fast,--thnaks for the great service!

First I removed the screws inside the door edges. This releases the front door panels allowing access to the detergent cup parts. Then I removed the old cam return spring, the old cam (and the old spring underneath the cam) and the old bi-metal switch. The instructions were pretty clear on how to install the new style return spring and new cam. Then I installed the new bi-metal switch.

Really, the hardest part of the whole repair is getting the door panels back in the proper place so that the screw holes are aligned. That probably took longer than the rest of the repair job.

The new parts have the detergent cup working like new again. Very satisfying repair!

this is a portable unit
the wood top is removed this allows access to the side cabinet screws and the lower front trim screws behind the lower front trim panel you can access the hose connections disconnect and reinstall
new part works great!

The water inlet valve would not allow enough water to run effectively. To R & R the part only a phillips screwdriver, a smaller adjustable wrench and pliers are needed. Turn the water supply off, & disconnect the water supply. Remove 2 screws attached to the cabinet and remove the rubber fill hose with pliers to open the clamp. Remove the inlet fitting from the old part and place on the new valve, using teflon tape. Attach the new part to the cabinet wall then the water supply to the old, reused fitting (also with teflon). Obviously, turn power off and disconnect the 2 double leads before beginning and replace when done. A fairly simple job , and my miraculous Maytag keeps on going!!

I removed front bottom cover,found belt broken. I ordered part online on 10-23-09,part arrived on 10-24-09,amazing. I lossened the two bolts that hold the drive motor to the frame,slipped the new belt on and applied the supplied silicone grease. I then ran the two bolts in with a 3/8 wrench,put the cover back on. Everything works like new now. Great delivery and easy ordering system online. Immediatly called my neighbor and told him about partselect.com

Took off bottom cover. Put belt on center housing than put belt on moter pully.Rolled belt down onto center pully while turning pully clockwise. Popped right on.

It was my first dishwasher belt and it was much tighter than I thought it was going to be. I was worried I was going to break it putting it on so I was a bit stumped, but finally got it on and its good as new.

I replaced the belt and door spring. Now it works perfectly, and the door doesn't drop with a bang.

Had to loosen the drive motor enough to slip the belt around the pulleys. The only problem was the amount of space available to work in.

Typically when the detergent is not being despensed during the wash cycle, the bi-metal switch is bad (they don't tend to last forever). I took the 4 lower screws out from the inside of the dishwasher door,, unscrewed the bi-metal switch, and screwed in the new switch. I also decided to replace the metal spring for the dish as well, which took the majority of the time. Once you get the idea of how that spring is wound in there, the install goes pretty quickly.

First, I had to remove the outer face panel of the door. Four screws on the inside of the door hold the large panel onto the front. Removing these screws and the panel revealed the detergent cup assembly. There is no need to disconnect the power as long as the door latch is in the open position for this repair. I removed the two wires, blue and white from the leads, keeping note which was attached to which lead. I used a hex head screw driver to remove the 6 screws that hold the detergent cup in place. After removing the detergent cup and gasket, I cleaned the surfaces with a scouring pad to make sure the new gasket would have a good seal. I installed the new detergent cup with the 6 hex screws and re-attached the leads. I replaced the face panel with the four interior screws after running a couple cycles to be sure the problem was fixed, which it was.