WU300 Maytag Dishwasher - Instructions

had to remove the iner door plate and remove the main switch or latch to get to the micro switches witch one had over heated over time,it is working like new at this time.

First removed the four screws to the lower front outside panel (the only tools needed to complete this job). Slide the belt under the drive motor, onto the motor pulley grove, then strecthed the belt onto the pulley for the pump that's on the power module (was qiite difficult, but with the directions supplied with the belt, was able to get it on) Lubricated the belt with silicon grease.

After removing the cover to the motor assembly, I determined that the problem was that the old drive belt had broken. It probably was more than 20 years old. I originally thought that the size was no longer available because the old belt had stretched about two inches, but, after reading the repair stories on the PartsSelect Website, I decided to try the 25 3/8" belt. It worked great! After a few tries I was able to stretch the belt across the two pulleys without having to loosen anything. After applying the silicon grease, the dishwasher worked as good as new. The most difficult aspect of the job was having to work in such a small space. The most time-consuming part of the job was removing and then replacing the access cover, but the job overall was quite easy.

Remove lower cover plate below door. Remove broken spring with needle nose pliers. Place plastic insert into upper spring loop and loop into hole on right spring hinge. Grab lower spring loop with needle nose pliers and insert through hole in lower frame base. Reinstall lower cover plate.

Changed springs on both sides as long as I was at it. Did this without having to pull out built in washer. Lock the door closed to give the least tension on the springs. Remove kick plate at bottom of washer. Remove small access panels on each side. If you have small enough paws you can reach thru the access holes and strectch the spring with your fingers to remove and install new springs or use needle nose pliers if you have to. Don't forget the nylon bushings that come with the springs or the metal on metal contact will eventually nick the springs hook and make them break . Hook top end of spring first (rounded hook) and then stretch spring by grasping between thumb and index finger and hook into bottom hole. Hardest part is having to lay on your stomach to do it. Reassemble and count the money you've saved.

Removed the seal and replaced with new one. Job went very easy. Stop the leake. Thank you.

Claude Miller

removed retaining nut and replaced

it was very easy to unscrew the broken nozzle and screw back the new one. !

Replaced whole assembly

Firstly, I'm a 58 year old female and this repair was relatively easy for me, thanks to all the marvelous instructions on this site from others who made this same repair. Like the others, I removed the four lower screws on the INSIDE of the door along either outer edge. Before that, in error, I removed the four screws along the very bottom of the door, big mistake, hard to get them back in correctly. Removed the door panel and took out the 6 nuts from the dispenser cup, slipped the electrical clip thingys from the posts by slightly wiggling them straigt off, remember which color goes where. Cleaned the area around the old gasket and reattached the new gasket and dispenser cup. This was a little tricky holding it in place from the inside while using the nut drive on the outside. Whew! That was the hardest part for me. Thanks to all for the previous detailed instructions. I now have really clean dishes! Yay! Great feeling of accomplishment.

This dishwasher is over 20 years old and still works well. The door springs broke and the skematic shows 2 springs on each side. The spring kit only includes one spring for each side which is the primary spring. Removed the bottom access panel, shut off the water line and removed the water line. Removed the top screws which lock the dishwasher in the cabinet and pulled forward about 6 inches to fully expose the springs. Replaced the two big springs, one on each side and adjusted for maximum pull of door. The second small springs were not necessary. Pushed unit back into the cabinet, connected the water line and tested for water leaks. Cleaned and replaced access panel and the door is light as a feather.

First of all, ordering the parts from PartsSelect.com was very easy to do, I found and paid for the part in about 10 minutes with only the model number.

Removed the screws holding the old flange. Pulled it out and put the new one in its place. Installed the screws.

After I was finished I looked at the instructions. I'm glad I didn't look at them prior to starting. They were actually confusing.

I removed the access panel and it was right there. one screw - disconect the wires & it was out. then right back in - access panel on, and done.

I removed the 4 lower Phillips head screws on the lower inside of the door.(thanks to a tip from Robert) This removed the front panel allowing access to the detergent cup. I removed the 6 screws holding the detergent cup. Removed the old detergent cup and gasket. Installed the new cup and gasket and reinstalled the front panel. Amazingly easy. Now it's on to my stove. I'm hooked on your website

The part was a bit difficult to put on and then I discovered that it still would not drain. It turned out that my drain hose was plugged