WTW6300SG1 Whirlpool Washer - Instructions

Removed/ Replaced. Machine control motor

Just pulled the old water pump off and replaced with new one and was good to go. Thank you so much for sharing the problems and how to fix. Dean

I mounted the left and right hinge assemblys into the washer (spring assembly) and then mounted the glass top on to the hinge assemblies. Inserted the screws and tightened as required.

lifted top using putty knife to push back holding clips.secured top so it did not fall. moved basket to one corner and lifted the spring up, while it was lifted remove the plastic holding rings. Then push down on holding clips that are near bottom of side of basket and the suspension rod just eases out. do that for all 4 and you are done.

Removed the softener dispenser and cap that's under it. Used 7/17" socket with an 18" long extension to reach the bolt that holds agitator down. Pulled auger off, pulled lower agitator off. Removed the 6 philips head screws that hold basket hub in place. Removed hub and installed new one, replaced screws. Lightly greased spline and reinstalled lower agitator. The auger has the cam section in it. A trick to get the rollers in place is to secure them to the cam with rubber band. Have string tied to the band. Insert the cam and when almose all the way in, pull rubber band off and the rollers stay in place. Reinstalled the bolt, cap and softener dispenser.

I just unscrewed the top agitator cap and slid the o-ring on and put it back. Done in seconds.

Just had to remove cap on agitator and replace new rubber seal.

It was not easy but I dit my sell

The instructions displayed the parts location and and some instruction. The top of the unit will release and pivot up after the two catches at the front are presed in at the front seam. The catches are located about 6 inches in from the sides. Before lifting the top though you should secure the lid to the top. I used some masking tape. Pivot the top up and brace the top to prevent it from falling back too far or forward over your work access. I leaned the top back against the wall behind the washer. Once the top was secure I began by lifting one conner of the tub assembly so that a corner dampner assembly could be removed. The top of the dampener assembly has a loop which grabes the plastic cup at the top frame of the washer. Lift the tub assembly (about 30lbs) on one corner and as the hook becomes free rotate the plastic cup to disengage the hook from the cup. To make it easier to work inside the washer frame I used the bar clamp to hold the tub asembly to one side so that I could reach along the damper assembly to pop loose the top retainer at the tub by pushing down with a screwdriver. Once the dampener assembly was loose it can be removed and the new one inserted in its place. I repeated these steps for each dampener and was done in about 30 minutes. You may want to note there is a wire clip on the right rear dampener and this was easily removed and reinstalled on the new assembly.

went well but alas the problem still exists.

At the time that I received the order part, Me and my Wife and 15 years old Douther got on it. We removed the very top of the counter and replaced once at the time every supension rod cleaned nice and neat. then we put the top on it's place conected the water hoses pluged it in and it was ready to roll.

Unplug washer. Use scraper to depress spring steel catches under top cover of cabinet. Raise and support cover. Remove lock mechanism from cover using nut driver and remove switch and cable from spring tension clips. The last cable stay is zip tie/plug; pry it from hole in cover. Don't worry about saving this cable stay as the new switch has one pre installed. Before lowering cover place an object such as a rolled up towel over the cabinet spring catches to prevent engagement. Then lower cover. Locate two screw on back of control panel and remove with nut driver. Just below control panel on back side of cabinet is a single screw securing a small cover plate. Remove screw and plate. Lift control panel and turn it over. Locate plug for the latch switch and disconnect it. Then set control panel back in place. Raise and support top of washer again and pull faulty switch and cable assembly from washer. Attach new switch assembly to top cover and place cable into spring clip and insert plastic cable stay into hole. Route the connector through the opening the faulty one was pulled from. You may now close the top of the washer. Lift and turn over control panel connect new switch plug and set control panel back in place. Replace screws on back of panel and the small cover and screw. Plug washer power cord in and you should be done.

Our washer wasn't really working, we called a tech to diagnose our problem, he charged us $35 to let us know that we had a suspension problem, he promised to call us back next day with the estimate for the repair, he never did. So I decide to search, I found a video showing exactly how to do it, it was a very easy, and simple process that I decide to order the parts my self. The parts were delivered to my door in 24hrs. I installed the parts in less than 45 min, and now our washer is working like new again!!!

Thanks guys.

I disassembled the top half of the machine removed the drum and found a bad bearing. The code F51 said i had a bad motor control board. I had a frozen bearing on the main shaft. Freed up bearing, machine now runs but I need to replace the bearing,

Had to dig a little to find what error code "F1" really meant. Thanks to the Internet. Paperwork with machine advises to call a technician. Once I discovered what the error code indicated, I followed the instructions and removed and replaced the controller. Although it was expensive I didn't have to pay for any labor. Machine now functions normally.