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Upper agitator wouldn't spin
Removed the liquid softener cartridge. Removed the plastic seal inside the upper agitator using a pliers. Removed the bolt holding the agitator in place using a 7/16 socket wrench with a 6 inch extension. Lifted the agitator out. Separated the upper and lower agitator into two pieces. Replaced the cam assembly inside the upper agitator. Reversed the whole process.
First I pulled the liquid softener dispenser from the top of the agitator. Then I pulled (also by hand) the cover that was beneath it. That revealed the bolt holding the agitator in place. I loosened this with a socket set and removed it. The old Cam-Agit, which was stripped, popped out and the new one popped in. I then reassembled everything in reverse order and was done in approximately 5 minutes. The agitator works great now and we are no longer getting clumps of powder detergent in the clothes from lack of agitation.
I bought the cog kit. Nice directions on how to assemble but their were no instruction on how to disassemble the agitator. I wound up replacing the whole agitator for $60 vs $6 for the parts I needed. The agitator had only one nut (which you had to take off to get at the cog assembly anyway. The agitator is the way to go. The cogs are halfway down the top part of agitator with no way the get them out without a special tool or ruining the bottom part of the agitator as the clips are part of the bottom piece. If you need special tools they should be listed. If you need to be a trained technician that should also be stated. To give you parts in the middle of an assembly with no instruction on how to put them in the assembly is plain wrong.
Much like the other descriptions. I found the video helpful and this was the only vendor that had diagrams, so you could see how things went back together. When I popped off the top piece, everything went flying, as someone else mentioned, so the diagram was essential.
When the washer goes into a spin cycle, I would hear an intermittent loud clattering noise. I think the clutch teeth above (the cup part that is spring loaded) and the belted pulley's teeth below are not fully seating on each other during the spin cycle.
W10721967 Splutch Cam Kit
Assuming the pulley nut was properly tightened at the factory. I think this problem occurs because of ever-so-slight rounding of the splutch cam teeth from the actuator engaging and disengaging over whatever time frame there is before a clattering noise develops.
When I took off the 13mm nut using the adjustable strap tool, it felt tight to me...Was it put on as tight as it should have been at the factory? Who knows. I don't have the torque specification of this nut on that plastic pulley.
Watch the videos to remove and replace the belt cover and belt, actuator and splutch cam kit.
Pay particular attention to tightening up the nut. I put the pulley on and hand-tightened the nut. I used the adjustable strap tool and before I tightened everything, I pushed up on the pulley to press against the spring pressure in order to mesh the teeth together. After the nut was tight, I repositioned the strap tool and gave it another go, further tightening it. You see earlier that day, I only tightened it up once because I thought it was good and tight. I put everything back and within a half-hour it was clattering again and I could loosen the nut I thought was tight by hand! I fooled myself. That's why I did it twice, and don't be afraid to give it a good second tightening effort. Two weeks now and the wife is currently very happy.
Washer -Maytag Centennial- would NOT agitate. It would run through all cycles as indicated by the lights and even spin at the end, but never agitated. It also did not appeared to go into "sensing" mode at the start. Took a long time to move from "sensing" light to "wash" light. Did not hear or see a
There are a number of videos showing how to do this repair: >Disconnect power and water - cold, hot and drain. >Put washer on its side on a stand (low platform) to get to the bottom. Better than than just laying front of washer on floor. >Used a drop light to help see bottom. >Removed Pulley Cover using nut driver - has 2 screws with nut heads. >Removed and replaced the Shift Actuator (part provided) using a Phillips screw driver - 2 green screws. Unplugged electrical connector which should be reconnected before new unit is screwed back down. Replacement part is not the same as the original. From what I read. this part has been a problem with these washers. >Put Pulley Cover back on. >Reset washer upright. >Reconnected water and power. >Ran "CALIBRATION". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "rinse" light on and pushed "start" button. >Ran "AUTOMATIC TEST". In Diagnostic Test Mode, turned to "spin" light on and pushed "staet" button. Washer agitated in first cycle - "sensing" and in "wash". . Washer has been working as it should and I a very happy with the results.
I must say that PartSelect Identified the bad part as the Shift Actuator right off from the symptoms I provided.
Disconnect electrical plug from the wall, disconnect drain hoses and tip washer forward remove belt hosing basket and then remove the electrical plug that contains seven wires connected to actuator then remove the two small screws. Then reverse the operation to stall the new part. Very easy.
Unplugged washer, turn off water to washer, removed water lines from washer, pull washer away from wall, removed about 5 screws from top access panel and remove, used putty knife to release clips from both sides of front control panel and lay forward, removed three screws from valve, disconnect hose from valve. Reassemble in reverse order. Not a bad idea to run a little water into bucket from both supply line to remove any foreign material that may have let lose from shut off valve before reconnecting to washer.
I removed the cover for the softener dispenser on the top of the agitator. Then reached in and removed the cover of the nut and washer which was very sticky and sealed with an o-ring. This took a bit of pressure. Then used a socket wrench with an extension to loosen the bolt and took the whole agitator out of the machine. Then I set the agitator on the floor and with a fine 12 inch long screw driver released the catches while turning and pulling the agitatior with my other hand and holding the lower agitatior on the floor with my feet. I then turned the upper part over and removed the cogs and holding mechanism. Then I reversed the process after replacing the cogs with the new part. 25 minutes total.