WRT351SFYW00 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Very simple fix, remove 3 screws, two connectors to the old switch

took door of the refergarator. Then cut old gusket of and clipped the new one on and then put the back. Done!!!!!

I removed the switch housing (4 screws), replacing the switch in the housing was a snap. It took 5 minutes, cost $8 and light works like new!

Why didn't I order this part and do the repair earlier? Very simple.

Grat help on the phone. We saw repair on YouTube. my wife and I worked it together. It was child's play!! It went beautifully. we were able to "chill out" with ice aplenty!!Thanks...eric

First, made sure new fan worked then Placed back in bracket with bushings-only goes in one way, pushed fan back on. screwed bracket to back of freezer and ran the wires to their original place, plugged in the two plugs, put the back piece up attaching ground and pulling ice maker plug thru, screwed back on. Plugged in ice maker, mounted ice maker on freezer wall. Plugged it in. Exact reversal of how it was removed. Not a lot parts to get confused.

Noticed the evaporator fan not spinning but would spin with a finger jump start. After looking up the part on the PartSelect liner parts diagram I found the installation video that really helped. After installing the fan it tested out fantastic. The fan was blowing air 10 times more than the old one. Refrigerator works great on the original econo setting.

Followed online video instructions

Removed door and replaced bushing bracket was ok.

Using a screwdriver

Pried out old part with screwdriver. Unplugged. When new part came, just plugged it in and pushed the part into place.

use kitchen knife to pry out. replaced switch assemble and pressed back into place. Could not have done this with out help from previous customers. Thanks

****Make are you order Capacitor & Starter relay too (we ordered separtely so had to pay shipping twice)**** Super easy just open access panel on back near compressor and remove retention clip with fingers, remove & replace both capacitor & starter, put clip and access panel back on, plug in and allow 8 hours to cool! Works like new again! Hope it goes another 10 years

I first replaced the switch and had no results, I then ordered the Light Socket Kit, and because I had the experience of removing the panel to replace the switch, it took a few minutes to remove the two screws behind the panel, removing the temperature control knobs and then releasing the face plate which is secured by tabs at the bottom. The kit came with extra connectors in case they were needed, but they were not in my case and so I pulled off the wires, pushed the old socket out and the new one in. Attaching the wires to the correct pins, I screwed in the light bulb to be sure that the fix was correct and determining that, I replaced the screws that held the panel in place. Voila, I'm a happy camper who found some outdated jars in the back corners of the newly lighted shelves.

inst said,"50 pct of the time this calls for new capacitor," so we changed the capacitor. Same prob. It also said,"25 pct of the time it's the bi-metal thermostat" So we ordered it. We removed the plastic rear panel from inside the freezer comp. using small nut driver. Here we found much ICE surrounding the defrost unit, three inches thick. We thawed the whole mess. and the freezer has worked fine ever since. I think my habit of getting ice cubes from the inside container rather than from the ice cube dispenser, had kep t the freezer door open too much, interfering with the normal defrost cycle and allowing ice to build up over time so that it finally defeated the system. My new rule, "get ice cubes only from the front."

Eased the putty knife under the edge of the switch housing and pried it off. Pulled two wires off the old terminals and hooked them onto the new one and reinstalled into the refrigerator body.