WRT21MR7AS3 Westinghouse Refrigerator - Instructions

removed meat drawer ,,,titled on it;s side , used philip screw drivingto lossen screw ,,removed worn rail and replaced it with new one in less then a minute,,, very easy and cool ,,,

pulled out freezer, went to floor,reached in next to compressor pulled off clip just like on the video.Pulled off old capacitator took off wire leads.Installed new one. Freezer runs great.Loaded it up with beef pork and venison. No problems.

I check why not defrost, y test element and tha problem is defrost timer, i ordered and change, that is it. Your intructions that is very nice.Thanks Ben

snapped the wires from frig onto the proper prong and viola,it works. The proper prong is identified by the size because there are two prongs with the wires and two connecting prongs in the socket. I talked to a very helpful representative and she gave me the number for Frigidaire, when I was confused by the placement of the wire. Wish I had remembered her name to share with you. As it turned out I didn't need to call Frigidaire.

Watch the video provided by PartSelect and did exactly the same percedure. Shows what screws to remove and how to remove and replace the part. The freezer compartment was iced up quite a bit so defrosted it before installing part.

The instructions given to me by part Select were very good.I replaced the Timer- checked the heater with oham meter it was good- checked the door weather striping it was good and replaced the thermostat with new .So at this point I may need to call a professional unless some one has another solution.

I order defrost timer then replaced it but it seemed doesn't work. I order defrost thermostat again then it worked fine until now. Thanks. Part selects.

I hesitate to say anything since I did exactly what their video told me to do, and it fixed the problem. Couldn't be happier. Was positive I was looking at 1000$ for a new fridge. Love being able to fix it by installing 15$ part myself. Thanks guys.

Unplug the refrigerator. Removed the right hand top shelf. Used a 1/4" nutdriver to remove rear center mounting screw for Control Housing. Used Phillips screwdriver to remove two mounting screws for timer. Unplug cable from timer and plug it into the new timer. Install the new timer and re-install the Control Housing. Plug in the refrigerator and adjust the timer to start the unit. This was a snap with the diagnostic provided by Part Select. At first I thought it was the fan rubbing but when I removed the cover (two screws) it was obvious that wasn't the problem. The diagnostic hinted that it was either the timer or the motor capacitor making the noise. Because the noise continued after turning OFF the control, I thought it was the timer...I was right.

simply watched videos provided…making it EXTREMELY simple..saved me hundreds by not having to throw it out!! running better than ever like as if it was brand new!!

First of all I am 78YO, retired. Handy but NOT a handyman. There were two parts to replace. The Defrost Timer was very very easy and went just like the video. 20 minutes at the most. No surprises with only the most basic tools. The Defrost Thermostat was a little trickier. Took about 1 1/2 hours. The Thermostat disconnect plug was not like the video and was stuck hard. Had to use two needle nose pliers to finally get it apart. The rest went OK. The shrink seals were way too large for the job and my Hair Dryer was not able to shrink them enough for a good seal. Used a much smaller shrink seal that a friend had and it worked great. Suggest they use a smaller shrink that works with a hair dryer instead off the blow gun in the video. Wrapped the connection with electrical tape as others have suggested in addition to the Shrink Seal. Went together easy and am very very happy camper. Saved $295 from the Sears Repair Estimate. Dave

Removed old bin and slid in new bin. It was easily ordered (great online pics) and came in 2 days.

The freezer was still making ice, but the fridge portion was barely cooler than room temp. I came to the website and saw that the defrost thermostat cured this problem over half the time. I was quite dubious because I don't see how that would affect the non-freezer part of the compartment, but since it was a cheap and easy-looking repair, I figured what the heck, lets see if that's it. Sure enough, it's like new again. I still don't understand it, but I'll take it. The repair itself is simple, just cutting out the old switch and splicing in the new. Two wires, and clip it to the copper tubing where the old one was. The switch is accessed easily after taking out four screws in the back of the freezer compartment. The only hard part was removing the ice-maker, and that's just because the two screws that hold it in are a little hard to get a good grip on. Alas, you have to get the ice-maker out to pull out the back panel, so there's nothing for it but to wheedle those screws out.

1 went with maj 69% said defrost timer. NO. 2 went with second choice run cap NO. 3 went with my thought, ( PTC Starter ) why not, most exp part. Fixed the problem.

Followed instruction vedeo from partselect. THANKS!!!!!