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The hot water valve was leaking
It went great. First of all, thank you Part Select for the video on how to do this myself. My home warranty company was giving me a hard time. Blah, blah, blah. A mechanic friend of mine referred me to this site. Within minutes I found the part I need and a GREAT!!!! price. Ordered it, got it super fast, fixed it my self and my second hand washer is no longer peeing all over the floor. Very very happy. I will definitely be a repeat customer, hopefully not anytime soon. Thank you again for an amazing experience.
Followed instruction from you tube. Removed gasket holder, then gasket by door switch assembly then replaced with new assembly! I am a 63 woman and found this easy to do, with help from you tube guy.
Seal on front loading washer failed, causing basket bearings to fail.
I removed the tub. Thin included disassembling the washer and disconnecting various hoses electrical connectors to facilitate the removal of the tub from the machine. Once removed, I separated the two halves of the tub and removed the metal basket to gain access to the bearings and seal. Removal of the bearings was much harder than expected as they were very difficult to drive out of their pressed in mounting. I finally was able to remove the bearings and fabricated a press using a piece of all thread and two steel plates to install the new bearings and seal. I would not attempt to do this again with the proper bearing pullers and an official press to install the bearings gently without beating the tub housing. This repair I feel is beyond the scope of your average DIY. The bearings can be damaged easily without the specialized tools to install the components.
During high speed spin mode noise similar to jet afterburners emanating from unit
Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.
I followed the video on the PartSelect web site for this repair and it went just fine. I also replaced the drain hose while I had everything apart. Thank you PartSelect, same day shipping. Arrived within 3 day's and your video was spot on.
The hot water inlet valve was leaking at the seal between the valve and cellinoid.
Some screws, some clamps. Easy and straight forward. unplug machine, turn off water, disconnect water hose, unscrew top of machine (2 philips head screws), disconnect clamp from valve (use a towel for remaining water), disconnect wire, unscrew from place holder, remove entire valve, work backwards from there.
watereaking from the hot inlet valve,and the clamp and hose got corroded from the bleach holding compartment
removed two screws from back of front load washer slid the top back two inches and pulled up removing the top.Turned the water off at the shut off . Used the pliers to remove the clamps on the hose to replace. Put the new hose on with new clamps. Un screwed the two screws holding the inlet valve and removed the hose and clamp. Put the new part in and put the hose and clamp back on then put the two screws back that hold the inlet valve.Total time to unpack the parts and install 7 minutes. All I did was google it on youtube and order the parts from this site which only took 2 days and tah dah .
Turn off hot water supply and activate a cycle on the washer momentarily, with hot water selected on front panel options to relieve hose pressure. Slide washer out to gain access to rear of unit. Unplug washer from AC source. Using pliers, remove washer supply hose from washer-side of the line (water may drain from hose) Remove single Phillips screw at bottom of each nylon lid holder at rear. Using a plastic putty knife, place between front panel and top lid to loosen lid and slide to rear. Remove lid and store aside. Hot and cold inlet valves sit side-by-side at top rear of the unit. Disconnect connector from valve by pulling gently away from valve plug prongs and place to the side. Using pliers, compress hose clamp and move to lower section of hose. Carefully rotate hose back and forth to remove from assembly. Inlet valve is held to washer body rear with 3 small Phillips screws. Remove first 2 and then while holding inlet valve body, remove final screw to free inlet valve assembly. Replace with new assembly by reversing these steps.Make certain when supply hose is reconnected, it is firmly tightened but DO NOT over tighten. Test washer by running a cycle to ensure there are no leaks.
