During high speed spin mode noise similar to jet afterburners emanating from unit
Viewed two (2) on-line video's for bearing replacement. Produced a 40 item "punch list" as to action to perform following video. Followed sequencing of video's. Noted a 10mm and 17 mm socket needed, used 3/8 drive sockets. Also noted that a "deep Socket" of unspecified size used to aid in removal of nylon pins attaching (3) shock absorbers. Found that 1/2 inch sized (SAE) socket in my 1/2 inch drive socket set fit in the confined space nicely. Did not need the "deep sockets" (3 plus inch overall length) rather a normal sized 1/2 drive socket worked nicely to depress the nylon pin retainers. During reassemble replaced outer tub gasket, checked bolt torque six (6) times over 45 min. to assure complete seating.
I followed the video on the PartSelect web site for this repair and it went just fine. I also replaced the drain hose while I had everything apart. Thank you PartSelect, same day shipping. Arrived within 3 day's and your video was spot on.
The hot water inlet valve was leaking at the seal between the valve and cellinoid.
Some screws, some clamps. Easy and straight forward. unplug machine, turn off water, disconnect water hose, unscrew top of machine (2 philips head screws), disconnect clamp from valve (use a towel for remaining water), disconnect wire, unscrew from place holder, remove entire valve, work backwards from there.
watereaking from the hot inlet valve,and the clamp and hose got corroded from the bleach holding compartment
removed two screws from back of front load washer slid the top back two inches and pulled up removing the top.Turned the water off at the shut off . Used the pliers to remove the clamps on the hose to replace. Put the new hose on with new clamps. Un screwed the two screws holding the inlet valve and removed the hose and clamp. Put the new part in and put the hose and clamp back on then put the two screws back that hold the inlet valve.Total time to unpack the parts and install 7 minutes. All I did was google it on youtube and order the parts from this site which only took 2 days and tah dah .
Turn off hot water supply and activate a cycle on the washer momentarily, with hot water selected on front panel options to relieve hose pressure. Slide washer out to gain access to rear of unit. Unplug washer from AC source. Using pliers, remove washer supply hose from washer-side of the line (water may drain from hose) Remove single Phillips screw at bottom of each nylon lid holder at rear. Using a plastic putty knife, place between front panel and top lid to loosen lid and slide to rear. Remove lid and store aside. Hot and cold inlet valves sit side-by-side at top rear of the unit. Disconnect connector from valve by pulling gently away from valve plug prongs and place to the side. Using pliers, compress hose clamp and move to lower section of hose. Carefully rotate hose back and forth to remove from assembly. Inlet valve is held to washer body rear with 3 small Phillips screws. Remove first 2 and then while holding inlet valve body, remove final screw to free inlet valve assembly. Replace with new assembly by reversing these steps.Make certain when supply hose is reconnected, it is firmly tightened but DO NOT over tighten. Test washer by running a cycle to ensure there are no leaks.
1) Shut off water supplies 2) Unplug 3) Disconnect water supplies from back of washer -some water will dribble out 4) Unscrew 2 screws at back of washer top plate (the lower of the two screws on each of the plastic bumpers) 5) slide top plate back a couple inches, then lift off. 6) Carefully stuff a towel underneath the distribution hoses and valves to catch any water that escapes during replacement. 7) Snap a photo of the entire area to help identify where the hoses and electrical connections are located to aid in re-connection (or label with tape). Be sure to note the color coding on the wires in relation to how they connect to the valves. 8) Pull the electrical connector(s) off the valve assembly 9) Use pliers to loosen and slide the hose clamps off as many of the hoses as possible and pull the hoses off the valve assembly. Some hoses are hard to reach, and can be removed after the valve is detached from the washer housing. 10) Unscrew the two screws from the back of the washer body holding the valve in place. 11) Remove the valve (and any remaining hoses). 12) Attach distribution hoses to new valve 13) Place new valve into washer body and screw into place. 14) Reattach electrical connection(s). 15) Remove towel and check for any stray water 16) Place top cover on washer and slide forward to lock in place. 17) Replace screws in top cover at rear of washer (unless you plan on checking for leaks after testing) 18) Reattach water supply hoses 19) Turn on water supplies 20) Plug washer in 21) Run washer self-test to check that all water inlets operate -see note at end 22) Check for leaks at water inlet hose connections and underneath washer OPTIONAL but ADVISABLE: check for internal leaks - 23) Unplug washer 24) Remove top cover 25) check for leaks at distribution hose connections 24) Replace top cover 25) Secure screws in top cover 26) Plug in washer NOTE: Washer self-test instructions: Turn washer off. Press and hold the SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons simultaneously, then press POWER button. Keep holding SPIN SPEED and SOIL LEVEL buttons until buzzer sounds twice. Release buttons. Press START/PAUSE button 4 times to test prewash inlet and listen for sound of water entering the washer. Press START/PAUSE button again for main wash inlet, press again for hot inlet, press again for steam inlet, press again for bleach inlet. Press 4 more times to get to drain cycle and watch for water to drain from tub (if any visible). Press 3 more times to turn test off. Power off washer to reset.
1. Unplug washer. 2. Shut off water supply (hot and cold). 3.Remove hot water hose at washer inlet. 4. Remove the 2 plastic pieces that hold the washer top to the washer body by removing the 2 retaining screws. 5. Pull the top back to remove and set the washer top off to the side. 6. Unclip the electric harness from the inlet water valve. 7. With your pliers, loosen the clamp on the water inlet valve discharge hose and remove the hose from the valve. 8. Loosen and remove the 2 screws holding the inlet valve to the washer body. Install new hot water inlet valve and follow steps in reverse. Check for leaks before plugging washer back in. Run washer and check for leaks. Note: Excellent video available on You Tube. Consider replacing both the hot and cold water connecting hoses during the repair if they are old.
I first tried to replace just the tub bearings (and the shaft seal) but found it impossible to get the old bearings out of the old outer tub. Partselect.com made the return easy and I ordered the rear outer tub assembly, which includes bearings already installed. For the most part, you have to completely disassemble the washer, removing the entire outer tub. If I had to do it again, I would order a new seal for the outer tub as well. The hardest part is getting the tub back together inside the unit. It really helps to have a helper.